1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Chassis Swap 1972 onto a 2002

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  #16  
Old 09-11-2011, 09:40 AM
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Glad I’m here for your amusement, I’m not sure that was on this post maybe my other one on the other site ….. yep here it is .


I don't know if I can get away with that..... the trany is dam close as is.... I'll have to check it out and see. Thanks for the tip.
Not sure where I said I was scared I'm just not into creating more work if I don't have to. His suggestion is a good one, but I don’t believe I will need to do it because the front wheel lines up in the stock location. And if gaining a 1/4 to 1/2" on the front wheel clearance means I now have to cleance the trany....just not sure it's worth it? Once I get the front end on and all bolted tight I will be able to see what will have to be done and if I have to cut the floor to make it work then so be it.

Besides I responded to that post around 1:30am after spending the whole night measuring and making up a list for all the things I will have to cut/change, I was a little tired and not sure I wanted to think about cutting anything else at the time. So dang man quit busting my *****
 
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:38 AM
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Wow! Take it easy I was just messin with you. After chopping a frame how could anyone interpret you being scared of a firewall mod. It was all meant in jest. Light hearted. Did you miss your meds this mornnig?
 
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:47 AM
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Just giving it back....so it's all good. Sometimes I can just over explain myself I tried to make it light hearted with the little icons and such...... Sorry.......I'll go to the corner now
 
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:14 AM
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WOW

Subscribing. Keep up the good work and don't let us down!
 
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Old 09-11-2011, 01:46 PM
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In all fairness I had not taken my meds when I posted my response.
 
  #21  
Old 09-12-2011, 01:23 AM
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got a few hours in the shop today and was able to mark off the bed and cut it down. I cut it so there would be a little overlap up front to help support the cut bed floor. Cleaned up the over lap sprayed it with weldable primer and got everything close to lined up. A few more adjustments and a little trim here an there and I should be able to start tacking it back together.















 
  #22  
Old 09-13-2011, 09:25 PM
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With the buying and parting out I know I'm ahead but I was wondering how much so I worked it all out this after noon and not to bad so far.

Project Budget


Bought 77 Lincoln Mark V -$300.00
sold wheels & tires $40.00
sold rear end $200.00
scrap run $67.00
scrap run $87.00
scrap run $108.00
Total From Lincoln $202.00

Bought 2002 F-150 -$500.00
sold engine $200.00
sold trany $200.00
sold tailgate (damaged) $25.00
recycled catalytic converters $115.00
mis. Interior parts $45.00
grill $40.00
rear bumper (damaged) $15.00
front bumper $50.00
Total From F-150 $190.00

Sold from shop/home
sold air compressor $175.00
sold wheels & tires $125.00
scrap run from shop $125.00
Total From Shop $425.00

Total From Lincoln $202.00
Total From F-150 $190.00
Total From Shop $425.00
Total $817.00
welding supplys -$60.00
cut off wheels & blades -$40.00
1/8" plate 12" x 8' -$60.00
4" x 20' "C" channel -$98.00
460 engine mounts -$60.00
pneumatic hole punch -$40.00
shop supplies -$95.00
Total Parts / Supplies $364.00 left over


And I still have all these parts up for sale:


For Sale / 2002 F-150 Price
Door (drivers side) complete $200.00
Door (passenger) complete $200.00
Rear door (drivers side) $150.00
Rear door (passenger side) $150.00
Hood $200.00
Drivers side Fender $75.00
Passenger side Fender $75.00
Rear Slider window $125.00

For Sale / 1972 Ford Price
Wheels & Tires $250.00
Edelbrock 360 intake $100.00
Edelbrock 600 carb $100.00

So this project so far hasn't cost me a dime I’m in the positive $364.00 ...... now I'm just wondering where is it........
 
  #23  
Old 09-14-2011, 07:59 AM
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Shop around for a steel supplier (might be your location). I bought 1/8"x6"x15' & 2"x2"x32" box tube .120 wall for $40.00. The company I got mine from is Sanjo Steel. Don't know if they are only local or a national company.
 
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:48 AM
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Yeah your probably right ,Tri Cities Wa. is not a real big area and kinda on it’s own in the southeast desert area of Easter Washington St. So not a lot of options on some items. If I still lived in Western WA. I would just run down to my friends laser shop and buy it from him at his cost, but that’s now a 3-1/2 hour drive, one way. The place I bought it from was just to convenient, they are right next door to my work. So I just grab what I need on my lunch break. Sucks on the price but quick….


I noticed in my post that I put the C channel in quotation marks and that’s real close to the size so not sure if you saw it as 4” x 20” or what I bought at 4” x 20’ ? So at 20 feet that makes the channel $4.90 a foot and that’s about the same price I keep finding online. Who knows? Still to dam expensive!
 
  #25  
Old 09-14-2011, 01:22 PM
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I just noticed the price on your 1/8" plate. I bought 15' for boxing not that long ago so the price was fresh in my mind. It's not really a big deal if you buy steel here and there not needing much at a time. After all really what is $20.00 in the overall of building a truck. At the same time a $20.00 difference is a large one when comparing under $100.00. 33% of what you paid. That is a huge amount to lower expenses.
 
  #26  
Old 09-14-2011, 03:39 PM
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exactly, but $20 is still $20 that could help go for something else, so thanks for looking out I don't have a huge budget to work with so every little bit helps. That’s also why it was fun to figure out where I stand as for expenses. Most of the time it doesn’t work out that you get a huge part of your project for free or even better that it's paying you!
 
  #27  
Old 09-16-2011, 07:00 AM
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so a million or two tack welds later and I have the the bed almost all welded up. Now I need to grind them smooth and see how much body work needs to be done to make them look good. Sorry no new pic's yet......
 
  #28  
Old 09-17-2011, 05:15 AM
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Here are a few pic's of how the bed has turned out so far....









I cleaned out the seam sealer along both sides and started to tack it togther also. I still need to cut out the 4" on the other end and then notch the bed rails so it will sit lower. oh and fill all the holes that are everywhere.
















 
  #29  
Old 09-17-2011, 06:58 AM
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As to the holes your bed looks like mine. The top of the rails are full of holes. Have fun!
 
  #30  
Old 09-17-2011, 08:55 AM
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+1 my bed top was swiss cheese looking too . nice work !
 


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