Call me Green.
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New User
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Franklinton, NC
Call me Green.
First of all my name is AJ and I'm really quite new to all of this. Since I was 16 I've wanted an old Ford truck. 12 years later my dream came true. I just purchased a 1977 F-100 shortbed 2wd. From what I can see on the ripped sticker on the valve cover it looks to have a 351m in it. Its an automatic so I can assume it has a C6 transmission? Where do I go from here? Does anyone have any advice on what I should do first? Rebuild kit? Should the emission part stay or go? I am really very new to all of and it would be nice to have advice from people who actually know these things. It runs very good but I can tell the motor is being restricted or dragged down. Maybe that's what I'm supposed to feel. I don't know. So any advice from you pros out there would be nice. Thanks.
AJ
AJ
New User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 19
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From: Northern MN
I'm in the same boat, have always wanted to restore an old truck. I just acquired a '75 F250 plow truck along with the house I just bought. No extra time or funds at this point, but I'm looking forward to fixing it up. I'll be keeping track of this thread.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 5
From: Near St. Joseph,MO
First, do a complete tuneup: plugs/wires/oil/coolant/trans fluid and filter/fuel filter/air filter/etc
Then go over the entire braking system, replace bad lines/shoes/pads/etc.
Then drive it for a couple days/weeks and get a feel for it. You will find things that you aren't sure about so ask questions. At that point, you can take it as far moneywise as you want.
I just bought a truck, drove it home and started stripping it. Now, a month later I have a completely refreshed frame/drivetrain and still going. I have about $500 in it so far (after the $600) for the truck, but I am doing the work myself so it's cheaper. When you go my route, it adds up quick, so be prepared. Good luck with them.
Then go over the entire braking system, replace bad lines/shoes/pads/etc.
Then drive it for a couple days/weeks and get a feel for it. You will find things that you aren't sure about so ask questions. At that point, you can take it as far moneywise as you want.
I just bought a truck, drove it home and started stripping it. Now, a month later I have a completely refreshed frame/drivetrain and still going. I have about $500 in it so far (after the $600) for the truck, but I am doing the work myself so it's cheaper. When you go my route, it adds up quick, so be prepared. Good luck with them.
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New User
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Franklinton, NC
Yeah I knew it didn't have much but even still it just feels held back. Weird.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,261
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From: Big Sky Country
First thing i always do on a "new to me" vehicle is change all the fluids, whether they look good or not, it's just good practice, then a basic tune-up never hurts either i.e. air/fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, check timing, make any needed carb adjustments, etc., if you don't already own them invest in a digital volt meter, vacuum gauge, basic tool kit and repair manual, they'll pay for themselves in very short order.
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New User
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Franklinton, NC
The guy I bought it from had just had it serviced and I saw the sheet that shows "their" type of tune up. Where they check all the fluids and such and it said everything checked out. So I know the oil/filter and the air filter are good. But I will certainly take heed to the others you mentioned. Does anyone know who makes a good manual for this motor. So I know what part is what. There are a few that hoses aren't connected to and I'm assuming a smog or air pump that doesn't even have a belt on it anymore. I know the brake system could use some work bc my leg/thigh get a get workout when braking. I've driven it pretty regularly since I bought it and like I say it runs good and strong. I'm not looking for a hot rod as I don't even plan on touching the body. Not yet anyways. Right now I'm going for a good running engine that will last a lifetime. The only aftermarket items I'm looking for are intake manifold, carburetor, air cleaner and headers. With maybe true duals with flowmasters on it.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 37
From: Northern Virginia.
please search for 351M on here read all that you can. a well built 351M
can produce a lot of good power. it can also be made in to a 400 and make
tons of low end torque. research research research. The best place to start
is maintenance. go over everything and make it run great. then come up with
a plan of attack and stick to it.
can produce a lot of good power. it can also be made in to a 400 and make
tons of low end torque. research research research. The best place to start
is maintenance. go over everything and make it run great. then come up with
a plan of attack and stick to it.
Junior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Near Green Bay, WI
Welcome AJ. Remember everyone was "green" at one time! I would recommend a compression check if you haven't already done so. You might not want to stick a bunch of $$$$ in to it if it has a couple weak holes. Another tip I tell everyone with an "M" is to check the timing gears and replace them if they are still factory. It was the weak link of my 400 I had back in the day and I've heard others tell a similar story. Good luck!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 37
From: Northern Virginia.
Best place for engine info and parts or rebuilds for the 351M 400
TMeyer, Inc. Precision Automotive Machining
another good link with info
351M/400 Performance Build Up
be sure to read up on the timing for the engine. I believe it was 4 to 8 degrees retarded for emissions. so a straight up
timing set would make the engine come alive. especially if your engine is stock and unmodified.
TMeyer, Inc. Precision Automotive Machining
another good link with info
351M/400 Performance Build Up
be sure to read up on the timing for the engine. I believe it was 4 to 8 degrees retarded for emissions. so a straight up
timing set would make the engine come alive. especially if your engine is stock and unmodified.
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