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Yeah, I would likely put on a set of warns or MM in that situation too. That's what I'm talking about though. If they won't lock at all, then yeah, put on a pair of manuals. I see a lot of guys saying that they wouldn't auto lock, so they put on manuals. Which I don't get. They already had factory manuals at that point. I was just wondering if there was something I was missing. Thanks.
I would love it if my auto hubs worked. It seems that maintenance is UBER critical on them, and if I had the truck new it wouldn't have been a problem as I'm pretty good about maintaining stuff. But my truck had 163,000 when I got it, and the guy I bought it from obviously didn't feel the same way.
Now my current set up is the MSOS (manual shift on stop). The only down side is being unable to shift to 4x4 while driving. However the times when I needed it, traffic would come to a stop somewhere so this shouldn't be a big deal.
FYI, you can still shift to 4hi at up to 55mph just like the ESOF. Of course that's what the manual says, I'm not sure I'd personally try it at 55, but I've shifted mine going 15 or 20 and it engaged fine. You get the same benefits just w/out the auto locking hubs. Not really an issue though - in winter for example, I'll just lock my hubs and not engage the t-case unless I need it.
I have the factory "auto lock" hubs. They didnt work when I bought the truck. Fixed a vacuum leak, and re greased them and they work like a dream now. I like them because its better than getting out into the mud to lock. Plus if they do fail, I still can manually lock them. Which is why I dont get why people complain about them. They will never completely fail you unless youre doing something crazy.
Mechanically I don't understand the hatred and malice towards a [AUTO-LOCK] vs [UNLOCK-LOCK], the auto vacuum hubs are way better. When they work you don't have to get out of the truck, when they don't you just have regular locking hubs...
Vacuum is used by the fuel pressure regulator(FPRC), and idle air control (IAC), and a bunch of other systems on the engine, as well as the HVAC. And if you have auto hubs they stop working too. Vacuum leak = bad.
Originally Posted by CraigOutdoors
... Since they lock/unlock with a vacuum pulse I understand, there shouldn't be an issue with a constant vacuum leak affecting any of the other systems in the truck correct?
FYI, you can still shift to 4hi at up to 55mph just like the ESOF. Of course that's what the manual says, I'm not sure I'd personally try it at 55, but I've shifted mine going 15 or 20 and it engaged fine. You get the same benefits just w/out the auto locking hubs. Not really an issue though - in winter for example, I'll just lock my hubs and not engage the t-case unless I need it.
During winter, I keep my (2005 F250 Powerstroke) manual hubs locked and shift in and out of 4X4 Hi with my manual transfer case when conditions get slippery.
I have no problem shifting into 4X4 Hi at 40 or 50 MPH. I love my manual hubs and transfer case. Move the lever, and there's no question you're in 4X4. Move the lever again, and there's no question you're in 4X2.
I always make sure my foot is off the accelerator when engaging/disengaging 4X4. In winter conditions, even light throttle can cause some spin with 570 lb.ft. of torque and you want the front and rear tires rolling at exactly the same speed when using the transfer case.
I have no problem shifting into 4X4 Hi at 40 or 50 MPH. I love my manual hubs and transfer case. Move the lever, and there's no question you're in 4X4. Move the lever again, and there's no question you're in 4X2.
Good to know - thanks! I guess I was just scared to try it. And I agree 100% about the manual t-case, that's the whole reason I search them out when looking for a truck. I've never bought the argument about having to get out in the mud to lock the hubs - if it's muddy they should already be locked in! If there's any question at all as to traction, I just lock them before hand.
Vacuum is used by the fuel pressure regulator(FPRC), and idle air control (IAC), and a bunch of other systems on the engine, as well as the HVAC. And if you have auto hubs they stop working too. Vacuum leak = bad.
Perfect logic! Of course, it doesn't address the fact that thousands of hub vacuum failures have not resulted in HVAC or IAC failures.
Perfect logic! Of course, it doesn't address the fact that thousands of hub vacuum failures have not resulted in HVAC or IAC failures.
Thats because the failure is hardly ever in the vacuum pump. It's usually in the hoses to the hubs. But he's right. If the pump failed, you'd know immediately.
FYI, you can still shift to 4hi at up to 55mph just like the ESOF. Of course that's what the manual says, I'm not sure I'd personally try it at 55, but I've shifted mine going 15 or 20 and it engaged fine. You get the same benefits just w/out the auto locking hubs. Not really an issue though - in winter for example, I'll just lock my hubs and not engage the t-case unless I need it.
I'm not trying to argue with you but I am going to write out what my 2008 manual states about shifting from 2H to 4H for the Manual Shift on STOP.
Shifting from 2H (2WD) to 4h (4x4 High)
Engage the locking hubs by rotating
the hub lock control from FREE to
LOCK, then move the transfer case
lever from 2H (2WD) to 4H (4x4
High) at a stop or a vehicle speed below 5 mph (8 km/h)
Going back to 2H is writting them same.
This is what my manual states. My 2006 manual states that the engagement for the manual shift was 3mph or less.
Mechanically I don't understand the hatred and malice towards a [AUTO-LOCK] vs [UNLOCK-LOCK], the auto vacuum hubs are way better. When they work you don't have to get out of the truck, when they don't you just have regular locking hubs...
Vacuum is used by the fuel pressure regulator(FPRC), and idle air control (IAC), and a bunch of other systems on the engine, as well as the HVAC. And if you have auto hubs they stop working too. Vacuum leak = bad.
I don't hate the hubs, I just want the mechanical shifter.
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