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Yes, I thought of that, as well, so I marked the point at which it was set (just scraped off a little oil and used a pencil). It's getting to the point where I have to rub off the pencil marks before I re-time my engine. It's frustrating as hell.
It is now Sunday. This is what I have done. I removed the distributor, removed the roll pin holding on the gear. It was fine, reinstalled new pin. Set to TDC and re-installed distributor. Replaced dist cap, checked wires for tightness and firing order. Started engine and let it warm up, removed SPOUT connector, set timing. Same old problem. After a short test drive up and down the street, it wouldn't idle in drive or reverse. Checked timing. It was off again.
Could the cam have bad teeth or would that show up in some damage to the distributor gear? There were no metal shavings on the gear, although they may have been cleared away by oil.
I'm at my wits end. Please, if anyone has any thoughts, I could use some help!
Could the timing gear you just replaced be slightly defective changeing the timing as you go ? I'm just thinking of the what ifs..
Check the slack in the timing chain. WIth the cap off, slowly rotate the engine by hand until the rotor moves. Note the position of the timing pointer in relation to the balancer, then reverse rotation until the rotor moves.
What I would do is set the timing about 45 degrees before TDC remove #1 plug, use a long small screw driver and touch the top of the piston. I have a long gas welding rod threaded that I use on my dial indicator and magnetic base. Gently turn the motor, you can do it your self I just did one. Feel when the piston is at TDC or just over and look at the timing mark if it is not on the mark, or just past, you lost the key when you installed the gear on the crank, or it could have sheared, you have to hold the ring gear to torque the dampener bolt.
Just a thought!
I really didn't want to go back into the timing chain area again, unless I really had to. However, if I do and there is looseness or some problem not related to the tightness of the bolts, what could be the cause? I've probably replaced a dozen timing chains in the past 40+ years and have never had to worry about it afterward. It's not like I'm a newbie, I usually align and tighten, and re-check at least twice before I replace the cover.
What I would do is set the timing about 45 degrees before TDC remove #1 plug, use a long small screw driver and touch the top of the piston. I have a long gas welding rod threaded that I use on my dial indicator and magnetic base. Gently turn the motor, you can do it your self I just did one. Feel when the piston is at TDC or just over and look at the timing mark if it is not on the mark, or just past, you lost the key when you installed the gear on the crank, or it could have sheared, you have to hold the ring gear to torque the dampener bolt.
Just a thought!
Hadn't thought of this. It didn't get lost, it would have to have sheared, since I remember having to tap the balancer in place over the key. Well, if I have to go back in, I'll do it tomorrow. But, I'm going to check out your suggestion and see if that is what happened.
I think based on your experience level replacing chains, that your problem may be electrical. Try swapping out the brain, maybe the distributor, and TFI as well...any PIP codes? and just ignore the carb talk for the vacuum time setting
Well, I solved one of my problems!
It seems that my old timing light was the culprit in the timing marks on the balancer moving around. Now, I'm going to check the spark plug wires firing order and see if that helps.
FYI, the sensor that clips to the plug wire from the timing light was bad, resulting in inaccurate timing info. If it hadn't stopped working, I would NEVER have thought of this! I called a friend with a newer digital timing light and the timing seems to stay put.
After checking the plug wires, we'll see how it does on the road test.
Wish me luck!!!!
Well, I solved one of my problems!
It seems that my old timing light was the culprit in the timing marks on the balancer moving around. Now, I'm going to check the spark plug wires firing order and see if that helps.
FYI, the sensor that clips to the plug wire from the timing light was bad, resulting in inaccurate timing info. If it hadn't stopped working, I would NEVER have thought of this! I called a friend with a newer digital timing light and the timing seems to stay put.
After checking the plug wires, we'll see how it does on the road test.
Wish me luck!!!!
Nice ! Good luck, caz I thought you were screwed lol...
The bad sensor in the timing light was the cause of my problem (I wonder how I can blame my hair loss on it, too?). If anyone ever experiences this type of phenomenon, try another (preferably, newer) timing light. It'll save you time, stress, hair loss (got it in! ) and possibly ulcers!
I want to personally thank each and everyone of you fine people for sharing your expertise in this matter and allowing an old man vent his frustrations. I really appreciate your help! Thank you all!
The bad sensor in the timing light was the cause of my problem (I wonder how I can blame my hair loss on it, too?). If anyone ever experiences this type of phenomenon, try another (preferably, newer) timing light. It'll save you time, stress, hair loss (got it in! ) and possibly ulcers!
I want to personally thank each and everyone of you fine people for sharing your expertise in this matter and allowing an old man vent his frustrations. I really appreciate your help! Thank you all!
Throw the boys a rep point, and do hang around, even though you are good for now.
Congrats on finding the problem. I had been watching this post and was curious as to the problem. I'll keep this in mind if I run into the same problem. Been very educational!
Put the timing light in the trash , was it a light with the advance on it ? , im sure you will still have problems , but now you don't have a timing problem so its something else....Lew