Is there any difference between the overall lenght of the AOD and the C6?

Could i drop the AOD and install the c6 without much modification? Drivesaft the same length?


Also, anyone rebuild theirown c6? Ive come to understnd its not all that difficult...

 

I am not sure about the sizes of the transmissions but i have rebuilt my c6 with my uncle (he does trannys for a living) and it was very simple! it cost him like $120 bucks in parts too! (he gets a discount) If you are planning on rebuilding it, i would get a book that shows an exploded view. it comes in real handy! if you would like, i can find the link for the one i am thinking of...

 

C6: 33 1/2"

AOD for SBF, the only bell pattern available: 30 3/8".

C6 to AOD = medium hassle imo. DS, cross member, TC, TV cable, wires.

Note on AOD: Early models are trouble. '88-'93 from a truck or V8 the best candidates. More expensive than a C6.

 

Yeah, im getting that.

Im doing this motor build (351W) on my 82- its got the AOD.

Im debating on going to a c6 to handle the power but not sure its worth the hassle........ still on the fence

 

There's a few small modifications needed.

Going to a C6 from an AOD, you will need to run a vacuum line to the modulator, and you can discard the TV linkages from the AOD.

The reverse light/neutral safety switch & plugs are different, so you need to cut & adapt the wiring - but the colors didn't change for many years so it's easy.

Depending on which length tailshaft your C6 has, the driveshaft will probably need altering or swapping.

The shift-lever arms on the side of the C6 vary in length, so you may have to lengthen or shorten to match the truck's original AOD arm length.
If the arm is the wrong length your gearshift indicator on the dash will read wrong - or you may not be even able to select all the gears. Just a 'measure/cut/weld' fix.

Also, the brackets carrying the shift linkages on the side of the C6 are slightly different & need one extra mount made (also easy with a bit of steel & a quick weld - the tapped hole is already there).

LMC have the C6 gearshift indicators for the dash, if you want to have the correct readings.

On my truck the original front cooler line (cooled oil returning) plugged straight into the C6 port unchanged, but the rear one (hot oil out) needed lengthening.

The speedo drive gears are different in each trans but will swap onto your cable.

If you want to have the C6 kickdown connected, you will need to set up a cable or rod for it but it's not essential.....mine downshifts fine just on the modulator, & it's not detrimental to the transmission.

If you already have the 351w/AOD combo, that flexplate can be used for the C6.

That must be about it! Sounds like a lot of trouble, but the main swap is very easy - it's just the small stuff that takes the time.
I did this same swap a couple of months ago, & from start to finish was about 17 hours work on my own (included shortening the driveshaft).

As far as durability behind a 351, there is no comparison between a stock AOD & a stock C6. Good luck!

 

So you are swapping the 351w into this truck correct?

 

Could you go into that a little more? I swapped in a Performer manifold and 1" carb spacer last summer, and I've been having a time getting that dang rod from binding from time to time. It needed to be bent just a little differently to reach, but I haven't as of yet bent it just right.

Are you saying I can get rid if it? Why is it there in the first place?

Sorry for the hijack....

 

You don't absolutely need the kickdown. All it does is manually shift the tranny to 2nd gear when you floor the accelerator. It depends on what engine you have as to if you really need it or not. I had a 302 in my 80 when I first got it with the c6, and it was handy to have it working. That little 302 needed the rpms to do anything, and the accelerator was floored many times with that engine in a heavy 4x4 pickup. When I swapped in the 351w, I found I used it less, and probably a 460 would never need it. You can always pull the shifter lever down manually and do the same thing.

Now with the AOD, you need the cable to the carb, it will not work without it.

 

14&Ford - Please go into User Control Panel (use the User CP link to the upper left) and show us things about you and your truck, like where you are, what the engine is/was/will-be, etc. Several reasons for this, but if you happened to be in the Tulsa area I could help you a LOT with this. For instance, I happen to have 2 C6's, a drive shaft, linkage, etc. But, maybe someone close to where you live can help as well. Again, please let us know about you.

 

No worries,your not hi jacking

Here is where the decision is;

Every one says that the early AOD will NOT handle the stout 351W.

SO, do i have the AOD worked on/rebuilt/built up OR

Cut my losses and get a c6, rebuild myself and do the conversion????

motor might be 300hp........... for the same money, what should i do?

 

If you are only going to do local hauling and short trips, I would get the c6. It's reliable and simple. But it's a gas hog.

If you are going to go on long trips, I would research how much it would cost to beef up the AOD. That overdrive gear would be nice on the highway at high speeds. You could roll the dice and go easy on the AOD while you are saving your money up, and then get it beefed up later.

 

Im thinking along this line too im running broke on everything else...

 

Where are you located?

 

Don't miss my message, which would be easy to do given Franklin/Dave's response.

 

Last question.

Is there any tweaking that can be done with the modulator if one chose NOT to use the kickdown?