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Alright, I know they do not make spindles for the older I Beam set ups. Really sucks.
But the whole idea of the spindle is to raise it. Spindles go up the truck goes down. Basic concept right.
My idea is if I unbolt the stock spindle from my stock I Beam and re-bolt it on the bottom side of the spindle instead of the middle it should drop it correct?
This will move the spindle up about 5 inches. It will keep the same angle and not move anything but the tie rod ends but they make a kit for those.
I have looked at it hard and i do not see a problem....so far
I am looking to try this sometime in the upcoming weeks.
Someone give me some feed back? Ideas? Thoughts?
Recommendations? Anything.
I think there are some pics in one of my galleries where a guy did what your talking about. I copied them from car domain, IIRC. I don't know how safe it is, I wouldn't drive it. I'll post the pics below.
That is some home made stuff he added on the stock I-beams to put the spindle on top of it. So that what used to attach to the bottom of the king pin on the beam is now attached to the top of the king pin. A lot of stuff looks like it's below the scrub line too! So he'll be in trouble if he has a blow out going down the road.
I will just looking at putting the king pin(that is the end of the I beam correct?) on the bottom side of the spindle and finding a piece to fill the center and then reattaching it with a new bolt and all.
Do you know what spindles he used?
Or can you tell me how to get in touch with this guy?
I am new to this forrum thing. lol.
I would like to talk to him about some of the details.
It looks to me like it's all stock parts cobbled together. I have no idea who the guy is, those pics are from a few years ago from car domain. I copied them because I thought they looked like a SCARY way to lower a truck.
The safest thing to do is get some lowering I-beams, I know they are expensive (hence why I don't have any) LOL Or you could just cut the springs a little and have the beams bent at an alignment shop to correct the negative camber. I'd do either of those before I tried to do what that guy did!
Before I cut the springs I would trade the buckets out for the ones off of a 4x4. They are a little smaller. they give a few inches of drop with small camber issues.
And I am looking for more then a few inches.
If I lower it I am going to about 5. And I will never have the 500 to drop on them.
I am 19 and only in my Sophomore year in college. I am going to be in debt for awhile.
I am probably going to try and relocate the King pin to the bottom. If it is not safe I will change it back. Nothing will be cut or anything. So I can always put it back.
I am most likely going to use a spare set from a parts yard. they have a complete truck close to the same year.
So if I break anything I can replace it pretty cheep.
You could remove the cab rubbers and use rubber shims for a 2" drop keep the lower rubber for chassis flex,then you'll need to notch the the bed rails.
1st off those pics of the home made kit are downright SCARY. DO NOT try that.
Originally Posted by Tony79shortbed
Before I cut the springs I would trade the buckets out for the ones off of a 4x4. They are a little smaller. they give a few inches of drop with small camber issues.
And I am looking for more then a few inches.
If I lower it I am going to about 5. And I will never have the 500 to drop on them.
I am 19 and only in my Sophomore year in college. I am going to be in debt for awhile.
I am probably going to try and relocate the King pin to the bottom. If it is not safe I will change it back. Nothing will be cut or anything. So I can always put it back.
I am most likely going to use a spare set from a parts yard. they have a complete truck close to the same year.
So if I break anything I can replace it pretty cheep.
Being young and broke sucks, but being dead or killing others because you were too cheap to do something right is WAY worse. Your idea of moving the spindle up will NOT work without a bunch of fabrication, which if you don't have the skill/tools to do right will cost MORE than the lowering beams do. Simply put your idea is not safe or it would have been done already. If you really need me to explain the mechanics of it I will. Keep in mind you are messing with items that keep the truck rolling and steering. LOTS can go wrong here!!!!
Originally Posted by kobaltblue
You could remove the cab rubbers and use rubber shims for a 2" drop keep the lower rubber for chassis flex,then you'll need to notch the the bed rails.
Don't waste your time trying as this won't work. You won't get near the drop you think you will by doing this.
I "body dropped" my '74 supercab and while I was hoping for a 1-2" drop I could only get 3/8" of a drop out of it when said and done. I will be doing a solid mounted roll cage in the truck and wanted to dump the soft, cracked and generally worked over body bushings. While my truck is "lifted" I want the C of G as low as possible so I tried to lower the body on the frame as low as I could. Due to the cab floor clearances over the frame I was only able to cut 3/8 - maybe 1/2" of height. I'll put some pics below of my new body "bushings" that I turned out of aluminum.
Pics:
Stock vs. my pieces. The looks are a bit deceiving here and you won't get as much drop as this pics makes it look like you will as the rubber body bushings compress with the weight of the body on them, whereas the aluminum ones won't.
old setup
new
And just for fun - bolt dia. difference stock to new.
Could always do the 03+ Panther front suspension, it's a little cheaper (but more work needed) and you'll have a better suspension. You'll get the amount of drop you want, too...
[QUOTE=ChaseTruck754;10729291]1st off those pics of the home made kit are downright SCARY. DO NOT try that.
Being young and broke sucks, but being dead or killing others because you were too cheap to do something right is WAY worse. Your idea of moving the spindle up will NOT work without a bunch of fabrication, which if you don't have the skill/tools to do right will cost MORE than the lowering beams do. Simply put your idea is not safe or it would have been done already. If you really need me to explain the mechanics of it I will. Keep in mind you are messing with items that keep the truck rolling and steering. LOTS can go wrong here!!!!
Yeah it does suck but I am not going to do anything unsafe. I drive my two little sisters to school and work everyday. Will not put their life in harms way.
I have readily access to a garage and all the tools I need. So, it would be done right. No half assed.
1. DJM beams 3"
2. Panther front clip ~5"
3. Cut springs a bit and have beams bent to adjust ~2"
/end
As stated before. You keep looking for the uuber cheap way out, and it won't happen.. I think even if you did go the route you suggest, you'll have a fair bit of cash in it. Kingpins installed for me were 175. Alignment was $80.
Or, just keep on doing what you want. We all were stubborn and 19 once.. but difference is, most of us didn't do anything really unsafe with our trucks when I was 19. I saved my $ by parting out cars on eBay to come up with the funds for a big block swap finally in 2002.
Yeah it does suck but I am not going to do anything unsafe. I drive my two little sisters to school and work everyday. Will not put their life in harms way.
I have readily access to a garage and all the tools I need. So, it would be done right. No half assed.
At least you are smart enough to not want to endanger others.
What exactly do you have in that garage. If a large amp welder (220v power) isn't included you don't have enough tools. Even at that do you have the experience/know how to do it right???
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