'85 Overheat
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
'85 Overheat
My 85 F150 is overheating. I have new waterpump, radiator, thermostat, cap, and full fluid. No leaks in the system, the fan works ( no fan clutch problems), and there is no debris obstructing air flow. Its a 351W and I know these run hot but its gone out of the normal range just driving 45mph through town roads. Anyone deal with this or have any thoughts?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
In general, overheating while in motion is a radiator or coolant flow problem while overheating at idle is a fan problem.
In general.
What is telling you it's overheating? Have you verified it using a known-good, real gauge with numbers?
In general.
What is telling you it's overheating? Have you verified it using a known-good, real gauge with numbers?
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Haven't verified that my gauge is good, but my temp reading on the dash is good when parked and heater is on. When I turned heater off and backed out (after letting it run for 10+ min w/heater) the gauge went about all the way hot. But I have verified my clutch is good
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
My 351W runs reasonably cool up to ~45 MPH, but beyond that it overheats in a hurry. Drive around town all day with no problem, but hit the highway and it starts spitting coolant out immediately.
What's the prob? Either a cracked head or a blown head gasket. A leak-down test shows 3 out of 8 cylinders leaking into the cooling system. But, the radiator is fine, the water pump is new, and the thermostat is ok.
The point? If the cooling system seems up to snuff you may have a serious problem. Parts stores sell testers to see if there is exhaust gas in the cooling system. You may need to check it out.
What's the prob? Either a cracked head or a blown head gasket. A leak-down test shows 3 out of 8 cylinders leaking into the cooling system. But, the radiator is fine, the water pump is new, and the thermostat is ok.
The point? If the cooling system seems up to snuff you may have a serious problem. Parts stores sell testers to see if there is exhaust gas in the cooling system. You may need to check it out.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Was it ONLY the temp gauge, or did the oil pressure and gas also jump up?
If so, the problem is most likely the ICVR - Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator.
If it is just the temperature gauge, I would verify what it's telling you as the factory gauges are little more than a general indication of what's going on (when they're working correctly).
You haven't replaced the fan at all, have you?
Did you replace all that stuff in an attempt to fix this problem, or did the problem come about after changing those parts?
Are you sure you have the right water pump? The ones that are for use with the Serpentine belt system have the impeller facing the opposite direction (as it spins the other way).
If so, the problem is most likely the ICVR - Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator.
If it is just the temperature gauge, I would verify what it's telling you as the factory gauges are little more than a general indication of what's going on (when they're working correctly).
You haven't replaced the fan at all, have you?
Did you replace all that stuff in an attempt to fix this problem, or did the problem come about after changing those parts?
Are you sure you have the right water pump? The ones that are for use with the Serpentine belt system have the impeller facing the opposite direction (as it spins the other way).
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Wagener, SC
Wow, see I would of just suggested a clogged heater core.... 
If a heater core is clogged, will there still be good enough flow for cooling?
If a heater core is clogged, will there still be good enough flow for cooling?
Trending Topics
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
<!-- -->
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 773
Likes: 10
I posted the same question about a month ago...on my '84 351W...Two things I learned..ONE..Replaced the sender with generic part from OReillys...BOTH bad...TWO...Fan clutch seemed fine..It wasn't...I replaced the fan..and the radiator with a 3 row unit. Used a FORD sender..Truck runs about on the "N"..and about on the "O-R" in traffic. Just my experience..yours may differ !!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 773
Likes: 10
CJ06...stock replacement fan for the 351..Also made sure thermostat was 190..My truck had the original radiator...2 row..the 3 row made all the difference.The radiator was $160 at OReillys. I researched several radiators..Quality was OEM or better...Fit was as original, even though it was a bit thicker... no shipping costs..and local ..in case of a problem...
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
This isn't Ozark1, but we've talked about his radiator. I believe the O'Reilly # is 433561 and is for a 351. It costs $189.94, is made by Murray in the US, and is a 3-row copper/brass radiator.
Having said that, I believe I'm going with the radiator O'Reillys carries for an '85 460, which is #432183. It is $145.99, is a 2-row aluminum, and is made by Murray in the US.
Everyone I've talked to, including the man at Murray which the O'Reilly man called, says that a 2-row aluminum will cool the equivalent of at least a 3-row copper/brass and closer to a 4-row. And, I've found statements to that effect on-line as well.
Having said that, I believe I'm going with the radiator O'Reillys carries for an '85 460, which is #432183. It is $145.99, is a 2-row aluminum, and is made by Murray in the US.
Everyone I've talked to, including the man at Murray which the O'Reilly man called, says that a 2-row aluminum will cool the equivalent of at least a 3-row copper/brass and closer to a 4-row. And, I've found statements to that effect on-line as well.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 773
Likes: 10
Part # is ..433561..Price is higher than when I bought mine 3-4 weeks ago. I, too, looked at the aluminum 2 and 3 row that are available....Murray and others..I called an old friend in Florida that built the radiators when we were building replica Cobras and GT 40s, and asked what he would do for my specific situation. He said...and bear in mind, everyone has an opinion,...that the aluminum are no better cooling than C/B. He advised to go with the 3 row. I did not use price in my decision. Having said that...I have driven mine in town, on the road, and stuck in construction traffic here at home. Has never passed "R" on my factory gauge ..and I have a new S-W mechanical temp. gauge that I'm going to install when I get in the mood. I'm pleased with my choice..As I said the quailty was equivalent, and the fit as original..Works for me.....JV