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Driveshaft carrier bearings are pushed out of the rubber in the "hanger" by one thing. The splines of the slip yoke in the middle of the driveshaft are binding. When the splines are bound up, the driveshaft is effectively turned into a one piece driveshaft. Then the suspension compresses pushing the driveshaft (as a whole) toward the transfer case or transmission. The "hanger" is bolted to the frame/cross member so it can't move, and the bearing is pressed onto the driveshaft which is now moving as one big piece, so the bearing pushes out of the rubber.
Thank Kevin! I know this is an old post, but I have the same issue with the bearing pushing out of the rubber. This time I feel like it was justified, because I was trying to tow a log that was just ridiculous, but glad I notice it was messed up before I yanked the shaft outta the TC.
Now, I see the logic in your response, and I also know the splines were fairly sticky on this slip segment, after I just had it apart following a TC issue....
I am going to try a new bearing and making certain these splines are free. Thank you and I hope the other with issues here will take the time to check the same, I think Kevin did nail the issue on this reply.
I know on older vehicles it was possible to get U-joints out of phase. I'm not sure how to describe it well but I'll try. if you were to lay the entire drive shaft on the garage floor, all the horizontal arms should be parallel to each other making all the vertical ones the same. You also must make sure that the joints on a specific shaft are phased as well but that's pretty much impossible to get wrong unless you cut the drive shaft. There are some good videos on youtube covering this.
I know on older vehicles it was possible to get U-joints out of phase. I'm not sure how to describe it well but I'll try. if you were to lay the entire drive shaft on the garage floor, all the horizontal arms should be parallel to each other making all the vertical ones the same. You also must make sure that the joints on a specific shaft are phased as well but that's pretty much impossible to get wrong unless you cut the drive shaft. There are some good videos on youtube covering this.
thanks man, i did run this same question by our local driveline shop and he agrees, they need to be clocked the same as each other to work properly. Mine are, as there is a master spline and it can only go in one of two positions (180 degrees out) which are indifferent.
he also agreed that if the splines are not free to slip, but the slip joint into the transfer case is free, it will slip it back out of the transfer case when the suspension extends, and pull the carrier out of the rubber.
my spline joint doesn’t have a grease fitting, but i will clean it well of the old grease and put some in there that is not sticky and make sure it slides free.
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