Yup, that's why I suggested taking the coil wire off while doing some of the testing. Don't want that thing spitting fire in your face, right?

 

The big question to establish is whether or not electric pumps, IMO. If electric then there are lots of possible issues, inc the valve which selects which tank to take fuel from and return fuel to. In my experience on those systems, admittedly one system, that valve can provide a myriad of problems which defy all logic. For instance, at one point it was taking fuel from one tank and putting it back in the other.

Anyway, I think we need to establish which type of pump he has. And, I fully agree that the mechanical pump can take a long time to prime as I had fits with leaks and lack of prime. However, that year truck should have the plastic lines and fittings which, in my very limited experience, leaks less than 25 year-old hoses.

So, TruckoffFord, which is it?

 

My truck with the plastic lines at the tank still goes to a steel line after the selector valve and up the frame rail to a point adjacent to the rag joint, where there are rubber hoses clamped to them.
This steel line could have rusted, or the rubber hose could have failed, or the clamp could be loose.
Any of these would cause a mechanical pump to suck wind.

You want a picture?

 

A pic wouldn't hurt, and if there is a rubber line that could be the culprit. I had a very small leak and the pump would not prime.

 

I'll go take a pic of that side and upload it to Flickr.

(we still don't know what system TruckoffFord has in his rig)
But in any case there WILL be wires going to each tank for the fuel gauge senders at least.

TruckoffFord says he was having problems with the tank selector prior to this.
I would start looking there.
When I had problems with my selector it was simply the physical switch in the dashboard, not the tank selector on the frame rail.

 

Looking forward towards the back of the steering pump.
One is suction, one is return coming from the fuel pump...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6061993875/http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6061993875/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/24183730@N03/, on Flickr

Here's the best view of the hoses going to the pump itself that I could get with my cellphone, It is tight in there.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6061997499/http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6061997499/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/24183730@N03/, on Flickr

 

It is a mechanical pump. The line was disconnected from the carb., where the steel mess screen is located. The engine was cranked and fuel came out the line each time the peddle was pressed.
So do you think the problem is in the carb.

TruckoffFord

 

Sorry, but I don't understand. You should have fuel coming out of the line each time the engine is cranked not "each time the peddle was pressed".

But, you should have gas squirting into the center of the carb from the accelerator pump discharge nozzles each time the gas pedal is pressed. You can only see that by taking the air cleaner off and looking into the carb as someone presses the gas pedal.

 

There is no fuel coming out when just cranking.
I am at work and had to call son-in-law.
So it is the fuel pump - right?

 

It could be the fuel pump. But, it could be that there is a leak in the fuel line ahead of the pump which isn't allowing the pump to prime, which would prevent it from pumping.

If it were mine I would put a new pump on it and see if that solves the problem. However, while you have the hose on the inlet, or tank, side of the pump off, replace it. Take it with you when you go to the parts store to get the pump and get a new piece of hose that long as well as two new clamps. It will be inexpensive and should fix at least one potential point of failure.

 

That's an excellent suggestion!

Those rubber hoses rot in time (ask me how I know this ).

 

Might be just like how I know. Whenever my truck was parked nose downhill with a full tank, it would leak like a cracking dam.

I thought most 86 trucks with 460's had both electrical and mechanical pumps. If they have the splitter at the intake it was to keep cool fuel flowing through the lines to prevent vapor lockup from the insane heat these engines produce.

 

One or the other, never both.
I have never personally had a problem with vapor lock in the 23 years I've owned my truck.

 

Two warnings for TruckoffFord.

1) Be very careful with the fuel filter inlet in the front float bowl.
It's 7/8" Fine and easy to cross thread, destroying the pot metal float bowl.
These are unobtainable now.

Remove the fuel line flare fitting first, then the filter housing from the bowl.
Install the housing to the bowl, then the metal fuel line.
Use a large wrench to hold the upper end of the housing in place when tightening the line so you're not torquing on the bowl's threads.
***Trust me on this***

You don't want the 'stone' filter element no matter what the idiot behind the counter try's to tell you.
You want the little plastic screen 'thimble' and a new plastic coated metal washer.
If you can't get it at the auto parts go directly to a Ford dealer and don't take no for an answer.

2) Be careful when installing the new fuel pump to properly engage the arm on the eccentric bolted to the nose of the cam.
There will be some spring pressure and the pump flange will not want to square up with the face of the timing chain housing.
It's all too easy to strip the two retaining bolts and it is NOT easy to Helicoil them in situ.
....Even after removing the power steering pump and it's bracket.
Ask me how I know...

Also, be sure to check the oil.
If the failed fuel pump diaphragm has a pinhole it will quickly fill the crankcase with gas.
Pull the dipstick, check the level and give it a sniff.
Gasoline is NOT a good lubricant.
If contaminated I'd suggest you change the oil and filter.

 

Aye!

Ask me how I know this....

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...crankcase.html