Neutral Safety Switch
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New User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 16
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From: Stanley, ID
Neutral Safety Switch
I'm the proud new owner of an '89 F250 with a 7.3l and a C6. It started and ran fine for a few days and then decided to stop turning over. I'm able to jump the starter solenoid from the big posts as well as the small ignition post to the big post. I'm assuming this rules out the solenoid. I noticed yesterday that I don't have reverse lights, so everything seems to point to the neutral safety switch. Is this a safe assumption? I don't have a repair manual yet, so are there any replacement instructions online?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,002
Likes: 7
From: London, KY
Use the search function here in this forum and you'll probably find some instructions. If not I'm sure someone here can tell you how to do it! The guys on here have taught me how to do things to my trucks that I never dreamed I'd be able to do! There is a wealth of information in this forum! Welcome!
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,447
Likes: 5,517
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
when you turn the key to start position, do you feel the return spring tension?
if not, my money is on a broken ignition switch actuator.
the NSS is mounted to the side of the trans behind the shifter arm.
while it is possible for it to go bad, i have never seen one go bad.
if not, my money is on a broken ignition switch actuator.
the NSS is mounted to the side of the trans behind the shifter arm.
while it is possible for it to go bad, i have never seen one go bad.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth, TX
Is that the device that won't allow me to start my engine in neutral? Very much a PITA when you are going 60 MPH down the highway and the engine stalls due to a fuel tank running low and you can't just shift into neutral and crank the engine. You have to pull over to the side of the highway with no PS and no brake booster. It could potentially cause an accident. I have often wondered how it could be bypassed and it's true purpose.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth, TX
Never mind. I tried it in Neutral at lunch and it worked on the 5th turn of the key. I think my ignition switch and connecting rod hate me. Oh, yay for more projects.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 8,402
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Do like bashby says and jump the two red wires at the NSS (C6 only). If it then starts the NSS is bad, if not look towards the ign switch or key switch linkage.
Should you need to replace the NSS here is a brief description.
Remove outer lever retaining nut and the lever.
Remove the two NSS retaining bolts and remove the NSS.
Fit new NSS and retaining bolts but do not tighten.
With trans shifted to Neutral insert a No. 43 drill into the alignment hole (just above the shaft). Now tighten the bolts to 55-75 INCH lbs.
Remove drill and reattach lever and nut.
Should you need to replace the NSS here is a brief description.
Remove outer lever retaining nut and the lever.
Remove the two NSS retaining bolts and remove the NSS.
Fit new NSS and retaining bolts but do not tighten.
With trans shifted to Neutral insert a No. 43 drill into the alignment hole (just above the shaft). Now tighten the bolts to 55-75 INCH lbs.
Remove drill and reattach lever and nut.
Last edited by Lazy K; Aug 19, 2011 at 02:46 PM. Reason: more info
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New User
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Stanley, ID
Thanks for the help all.
Are you saying when I turn the key to start, does it spring back to run when I let go? If so, then yes it does that.
I'm pretty much an electrical novice. When you say to jump the two red wires, do I just connect them to each other as they come out of the switch? Can I do it on the other side of the connector?
when you turn the key to start position, do you feel the return spring tension?
if not, my money is on a broken ignition switch actuator.
the NSS is mounted to the side of the trans behind the shifter arm.
while it is possible for it to go bad, i have never seen one go bad.
if not, my money is on a broken ignition switch actuator.
the NSS is mounted to the side of the trans behind the shifter arm.
while it is possible for it to go bad, i have never seen one go bad.
Do like bashby says and jump the two red wires at the NSS (C6 only). If it then starts the NSS is bad, if not look towards the ign switch or key switch linkage.
Should you need to replace the NSS here is a brief description.
Remove outer lever retaining nut and the lever.
Remove the two NSS retaining bolts and remove the NSS.
Fit new NSS and retaining bolts but do not tighten.
With trans shifted to Neutral insert a No. 43 drill into the alignment hole (just above the shaft). Now tighten the bolts to 55-75 INCH lbs.
Remove drill and reattach lever and nut.
Should you need to replace the NSS here is a brief description.
Remove outer lever retaining nut and the lever.
Remove the two NSS retaining bolts and remove the NSS.
Fit new NSS and retaining bolts but do not tighten.
With trans shifted to Neutral insert a No. 43 drill into the alignment hole (just above the shaft). Now tighten the bolts to 55-75 INCH lbs.
Remove drill and reattach lever and nut.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 6,496
Likes: 94
From: So. Jersey
Should be the 2 red wires.
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New User
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 14
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So I figured I might as well bump this old thread that's already got a bunch of information about the NSS as I believe that is where my problem is.
I've got a 1987 F250 C6 that only starts in drive. Am I right in thinking my best lead for tracking down and fixing this problem is probably a misaligned NSS? Or is there something else that could be causing it to NOT start in P N R but only start in D?
Thanks for any help!
I've got a 1987 F250 C6 that only starts in drive. Am I right in thinking my best lead for tracking down and fixing this problem is probably a misaligned NSS? Or is there something else that could be causing it to NOT start in P N R but only start in D?
Thanks for any help!