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There's a relay for the defrost vent actuator? I thought that it was controlled by a vacuum.
Can you tell me where under the hood the relay that you found was?
To check out the blend door:
1. go to https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...lend-door.html or
2. go to the Technical information (Its at the to of the Ranger menu page.).
scroll down to the Misc. section and contine until you get to "Blend door fix."
daniele, there is a check valve in the vacuum line between the reservoir and the intake manifold{ the source of the vacuum }. It closes when the manifold vacuum drops off, such as when you have the pedal to the metal, keeping the vacuum 'captured' in the reservoir, and all the gizmos operated by vacuum diaphragms. If the check valve doesn't, the vacuum will drop off, and the spring load on the vacuum gizmos will start to force them back to their 'at rest' position until more vacuum is available and pulls them back to where you want them to be.
Find the check valve, and replace it, and you'll likely have no more problems with air conditioning the windshield when you accelerate.
tom
Not exactly, but you can follow the {likely} red plastic tube from the intake manifold to the vacuum reservoir. The check valve will be somewhere in the line from the intake to the reservoir, or built into the reservoir, depending on who designed it... When the check valve is closed, the valve must 'cut off access' to the reservoir from the intake, so it has to be in that line 'supplying' the reservoir. Other vacuum consumers would get their vacuum from the reservoir.
tom
Start to look under the hood on the passenger side of the firewall area. There are 2 main vacuum lines there. One of them should be gray and one of them should be black. Typically the black hard line is the problem when a leak occurs. It supplies the main vacuum to the heater control valve in the dash. It can be tricky to see at times. But it should run along the bottom of the washer reservoir into the firewall of the truck. If it is cracked or broken it will not supply enough vacuum to the comtrol valve and the result is a default setting. This is the sorce of most of the trucks I have encountered with this problem. If your is cracked or broke then go to your prefered parts store and ask for a piece of rubber vacuum tubing to fix it. Just shove the ruber line over the plastic one to create a splice for the line. I believe the proper size tubing is a 3/32 rubber tubing. It will be tight but that is what you need to make it seal properly.
did you check your relay its under your hood thats what was making mine mess up i didnt think to check it till i checked everything else first then i was like maybe its this and it was and all i had to do was pull it out and put it back in and everything worked again after 2yrs of not working
Its under the hood if you are standing on the driverside with hood up it should be the first relay nearest to you google it for pics idk how to put pics on here but i know my relay was hot thats how i found it and if its bad its only 8$ at autozone
I wasn't sure which relay to check, but none were loose or hot. The way my AC is working I still think that it is vacuum related since it is fine accept when I am accelerating.
I didn't see a check valve in the line from the reservoir to the intake manifold. Earlier in this thread, someone had said that there maybe a check valve built into the reservoir. How would I know if mine is that type?
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