I have done that a few times and the dealer has done it also. No water present because when driving and it shudders and blows white smoke that is the water being sucked through the engine. on the next trip when it is raining I am going to drive easy all the way to work and try to avoid letting the truck do what it normally does so I can check to see if water is present.

 

WOT on occasion might help, whether raining or not.

 

In humid conditions I routinely do a pre-emptive WOT just to clear any accumlation that might be in there. That way I have the power if I need it. Since you've had the repair made and still have a cronic problem you might consider that it's something else. Most folks who have had the repair report a lot of improvement. That was my personal experience, much better but not completly cured. Your discription of having it happen three times in 30 mins makes me believe it's not caused by water in the CAC. Even before mine was repaired once I cleared it it would not duplicate the problem for a good while. It takes time for the water to accumulate. If the dealer is not finding any water in the boot that may be the situation. Next time, if they find no water go out and kick it in the butt first chance you get. If it then falls on it's face there is something else wrong. Maybe some sort of fueling problem. Good luck.

 

I have not experienced the shudder since the CAC tube was replaced, but the bulk of my driving has been on the interstate. I seemed to have problems on two lane roads at slower speeds.

Now my main issue is the awful mileage and excessive regens. I looked at trading this cripple, but it will be $17,000 and mine to go from a 2010 to a 2011(same options)....that hurts. I have also talked to a few diesel shops about DPF/EGR delete as a last resort. Part of me wants to just dump this pile

 

I deleted a couple months ago and the truck does run much better. But, like most others, the mileage increase was modest. Now, from what I read the 6.7L is not that much better mileage wise. These big trucks just are what they are, heavy and thristy, I think I read in another thread you had a 3.55 Rear axle. That should be as good as it's gonna get. I've considered changing my 4.30 for a 3.73 to get a little better towing mileage. not much else that can be done.

 

what mileage increase did you see? I talked to a guy that has an 08 with DPF/EGR delete, MBRP exhaust and a Spartan tuner that is claiming 5mpg increase. He made the change around 3000 miles and is now at 138,000 so he has some time on it

 

The mileage claims on this forum are all over the place. I take all claims with a big grain of salt. They are only as good as the person who ran the test. I don't even bother repling to those using the overhead computer, they have no clue what the real mileage is. If someone is "hand calculating" that's better but only if they are taking the time and trouble to fill the tank to the filler neck on all fill ups used for the test. If they rely on the automatic shut down that won't be accurate. So, given those parameters here's what I got. With a delete pipe and an edge racing tuner set on number 1 (55HP/150ft lbs) and no other mods I made a 320 mile trip to my in laws. A route I've travelled many times with the same truck and trailer. No wind or other factors. 95% interstate or 4 lane driven at 60 MPH, level or slightly rolling terrain. Mileage was 10.2 or 10.3 don't remember for sure. That was an increase of 9/10 mpg. Which worked out to a 10% increase. I am happy with that. And BTW that's the same mileage I got towing this trailer with my 7.3L. I don't drive the truck much except to tow but I did go out of my way to try and get a feel for the non-towing mileage. In a couple hundred mile unloaded interstate run driven at 65MPH (mostly) I got 17MPG. That was a 2 MPG increase from similar eariler runs. It's kind of a long answer but I do believe the results are accurate and I wanted those who read it to know that.

 

so you were getting 15 empty before you deleted with 4.30 gears? I should be getting more than that with the 3.55s

 

Hahahahahahah

 

15 empty interstate, driving very conservative. 12-13 on just riding around trips. However, as I said above these are not as tightly controlled tests as the towing mileage, and therefore not as accurate. I've read every post on this forum since June, 2009 and the mileage reports are all over the place. I would not buy a tuner and delete just to improve MPG. I don't think the increase is worth it. The tuners are designed to increase performance. If someone could find a way to tune the truck for significant mileage increases we would know about it. If they could do it, the guys doing the tuners could never advertise it because they are only for "off road racing" and advertising anything else could cause them heartburn later. But we would know by word of mouth.

Yes, you should get better than me with a 3.55 IF ALL OTHER FACTORS ARE EQUAL. Terrain, weather, driving technique, tires, air in the tires, fuel quality and fuel additives are just some of the things that impact MPG. I'm sure you know all that, and in truth some trucks just get better mileage than others that are the same.

 

Yeah, there are a number of variables to look at. The biggest frustration for me is that the truck used to easily get 15-16mpg hand calculated (or more) and now is down to 12-13 even after driving it slower. Two weeks ago I pulled a 19' Mastercraft ski boat (3500lbs with trailer) 250 miles on the freeway at 74mph and the computer was showing 9mpg. I did not hand calculate that tank but that seems way low on the meter. Listening to people pulling tall, heavy campers that are getting better mileage is driving me nuts. If the truck was terrible since the day I got it I would understand it is just the truck....but that is not the case. I am actively trying to trade it in since it is costing me money on mileage reimbursement every day I drive it for work. If someone could come up with a solution I would be very excited as I really do like everything about the truck except the loss of mileage.

 

Well 74 is pretty fast given the weight and size of the truck, what RPM are you at? Mine tows best (mpg wise) at about 1950 which is just under 60 for me. I think to get the best results you need to keep the RPMs somewhere south of 2000 and the boost under 20 as much as possible. I can keep the RPMs down most of the time but can't get that trailer of mine out of a rest area without pegging the boost.

And there is the possibility that you have something else going on. A bad injector or two can spray a lot of extra fuel. But Ford won't do anything unless it gives up a code unless of course you want to pay for it.

 

I can go 74mph and stay under 2000rpms.

I just got my first Blackstone oil report and it shows a very high concentration of fuel. The average is <2% and I am at 7.5% and they are indicating a possible injector problem. Do you think a Blackstone report is enough to convince the dealership there is something wrong???

 

there is where your mpgs are going.

They will not take the blackstone as gospel.

You need to have a code stored or some other documentation to get them to check you fuel sytem.

A log of regens, plus reports of OA and mpgs over time may help.

did you get the latest flash (11b23)? It was suppose to throw a code with too much fuel in the oil.

Don't change the oil when you take it in. Rather give them the report of when the last change was/Miles/Hours and how much idling you do.

 

I did get a re-flash probably mid-summer and 11b23 sounds familiar. I have a call in at two Ford dealers to discuss the fuel in the oil. I have a record of all the regen mileages for the last 4000-5000~ miles. A possible injector issue was discussed shortly after I noticed the drop in mileage....maybe this Blackstone report is confirming that. It is surprising that 7.5% of my oil is fuel (less than 2% is normal)!!!!