Hi gang I want to yank the engine out of a '66 F250 longbed.
I have a 2 ton hoist and engine stand available. I just haven't pulled a motor out of a vehicle

What's the easiest way to do this, and please try to keep in semi simple

I have removed the front end (except axle and frame) already...so space shouldn't be a problem. The driveway is slightly sloped downwards (front end points downwards) slightly, and I plan on blocking the hoist so it doesn't roll back.

I hope to get this done by Thurs evening if possible, I'm getting rid of the body Fri morning.

Thanks

 

Be very careful. Very, very careful. I wouldn't recommend doing it on a slope of any kind. For one thing, those small steel wheels are hard to block. For another, it's tough to push a hoist with an engine on it (especially an FE) even on a flat smooth floor, let alone on a slope.
That said, the easiest is to use a flame wrench but the easiest isn't always the best.
If engine and tranny are coming out together, you won't have to worry about the bell housing bolts (and torque converter if automatic) but you'll have other linkage to unhook.
If you're splitting the tranny, you'll have to take off the starter. Probably will anyway to clear the mount. Lots more, getting brain dead and can't type anymore. Just about any shop manual will have a step-by-step to follow.
And again, be careful.

 

ZS, I can't top the prior warnings. I don't know what hoist means on your street. I think of it as a chain hoist suspended from the roof system overhead. A cherry picker (hydrolic engine hoist on wheels) has a arm to lift the engine. Basically one is stationary the other on wheels. Both have advantages as well as disadvantages. To use the cherry picker, a smooth flat concrete floor is required to handle a near 700 lb FE.

Now pulling the engine; You need a piece of chain 24-30" long that a 7/16" bolt will go through if you don't have a manifold pull plate. You place a bolt into the head in any combo of half of a X pattern (left front-right rear) (rt front-left rear) A carb plate bolts on in place of the carb to be used as a lift point. Some would caution using on an alum. intake. The plate makes it simplier, but the chain works very well.

You will need to have everything connected to the engine removed, (hoses, lines, starter, etc.) You can pull the tranny with the engine or seperate them.

If this is not enough for an info overload, please post back and we'll try to help further.

 

Chain the suspension in place before lifting the engine out and you wont need to lift the engine quite so far in the air to clear the body.

This is my two cents and my experience with engine removal. I have never seen any bolt smaller than a 7/16" and wasn't a grade 8 or stronger that I will risk my health on when removing something as heavy as an engine is. I am pretty sure those carb bolts are not hardened and are 5/16. The threads in the intakes aren't rated for loads like an engine weighs. I have seen an engine fall once while being lifted using 3/8 hardened bolts that go into the heads. Now having said that would you still trust those little carb bolts and intake threads? I'm a firm believer in overkill when it comes to lifting heavy loads.

Just be safe and use more than one lifting chain/strap in case one fails for some reason. Never put any part of your body under a suspended load! When a hydraulic lift fails with an engine on it it comes down pretty fast and you wont have time to get out from underneath it.

 

Zombie:
With the sheet metal removed off the front, your chore should be much simpler. As the other have said, just be carefull. Use the logical aproach.

I have found that using the bolt holes on the front (and/or back) of the heads make good securing points. If the heads are off, use their bolt holes in the block. If you have a manual trans, you will need to remove the clutch pivot point located under your steering column, this bolts to the bell housing. If the tranny is coming out, remove the crossmenber first and also don't forget the u-bolts on the output shaft (and the speedo cable)... If you can, just cut the exhaust pipes, do so after they exit the manifold, sure is time saving over unbolting (trying to) everything.

Just be sure to take a look around the motor to see that everthing is detached before beginning the yank.

 

Hey gang

Just an fyi update with the engine removal. It's done! Was a whole lot easier than I thought

Thanks for the input and cautions, they did help a lot