Drivers side upper ball joint bad need to replace before it can be aligned. Anyone have step-by-step instructions on how to remove and install upper ball joint. Also opinion on replacing just bad one or better to replace both at one time?

 

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Removal

1. Raise the front of the vehicle and install safety stands.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the disc brake caliper from the rotor and wire it out of the way.
4. Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut retainer, nut, washer, and front wheel bearing.
5. Remove the rotor from the front wheel spindle.
6. Remove bearing cone and roller and wheel hub grease seal. Discard the seal.
7. Remove front disc brake rotor shield.
8. Disconnect the steering linkage from the integral front wheel spindle and spindle arm by removing the cotter pin and nut and then removing the front wheel spindle tie rod from the spindle arm with a Tie Rod End Remover or equivalent.
9. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the lower ball joint stud.
10. Remove the nut from the axle clamp bolt and remove the bolt from the axle.
11. Remove the camber adjuster from the upper ball joint stud and axle beam. If required, use Ball Joint Removing Tool or equivalent to remove adjuster.

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CAUTION: Do not use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the axle as this will damage the seal and the ball joint socket.

1. Strike the inside area of the axle as shown to pop lower ball joints loose from the axle beam.
2. Remove the front wheel spindle and ball joint from the axle.

Installation

1. Place the front wheel spindle and the ball joints into the axle.
2. Install lower ball joint stud nut and tighten to 113-153 N-m (83-112 lb-ft) . Continue tightening the castellated nut until it lines up with the hole in the stud. Install the cotter pin.

NOTE: If camber adjustment is necessary, special adjusters must be installed.

1. Install the camber adjuster in the upper front wheel spindle over the upper ball joint stud. Align adjuster properly.
2. Install the clamp bolt into the axle boss. Tighten the nut to 68-92 N-m (50-67 lb-ft) .
3. Install the front disc brake rotor shield.
4. Pack the bearing cone and roller and front wheel bearing with a lithium-base grease, Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification. Use a bearing packer. If a bearing packer is unavailable, pack the bearing cone by hand working the grease through the cage behind the rollers.
5. Install the bearing cone and roller and wheel hub grease seal.
6. Install the hub and rotor on the front wheel spindle.
7. Install the front wheel bearing, washer and nut. Adjust bearing end play.
8. Install the nut retainer, cotter pin, and dust cap.
9. Install the disc brake caliper.
10. Connect the steering linkage to the front wheel spindle. Tighten the nut to 76-104 N-m (56-76 lb-ft) and advance the nut as required for installation of the cotter pin.
11. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Check and, if necessary, adjust the toe setting.
14. Check the brakes for proper operation.

 

i would do both of them at the same time while you have it apart. id go with Moog's, make sure to grease them up good though

 

make sure and grab the most important tool of all... cold beer. youll need it.

 

Fresh pack of smokes if you smoke as well.

It's not bad to do, just take your time and do both.

I put mine in then greased them. Seemed to work better that way.
Was a PITA to get them out though, the lower was froze in.

 

put the new ones in the freezer for a few hours.

 

May as well do both specially as cheap as they are and being in there already.

 

A shop press is a big help I think the ball joint nuts are like 34mm

 

it makes it easier if you have the right tools like the spindle socket and a balljoint press you can go to places like autozone and rent one it makes it much easier than a punch and a hammer but they do work .. make sure to pack all your bearings including the spindle bearing..........