Before I ask my question I would like to say I know little about the internet or my truck for that matter so please don't hold it against me. Anyways, my problem accures while trying to start my Ranger. WHen I go to turn the ignition key the truck sounds like it is starting up then it just dies and sounds almost like the enginge is just spinning. But if I hold the key all the way down in the cranmked position the truck will run. I have a friend who is a mechanic who has tried to fix the problem he bought some new thing that looks like a huge socket/outlet that is used in your house and he put it in the steering colum. It didn't really help anything, then it was "fixed" long enought to drive it to his house by bypassing the nuetral safety switch (I think thats what he called it). So I really need to know what the problem is as this is driving me crazy. Also I did a search on this same problem in the forum only a few people had the same problem but everyone said "do a search for the same problem you will get your answer". Thanks for your time.

Edit note. I forgot to mention that yesterday my friend said he fixed it so I hopped in the truck and it started perfectly so I drove it home. Then this morning, the same exact problem with it only running while cranked. Figured this might be something that should be known.

 

Sounds like a bad Duraspark ignition module. The square silver aluminum box on the inner fender. It has 2 power wires to it 1 red 1 white It should have 12v to the one wire in the run position and 12v to the other wire while cranking. Sounds like you lost voltage to the run side or the module itself is bad.

 

Racerchuck, my thoughts exactly. I just have one question ... wouldn't RabidWeasel have the typical Ford ignition module (plastic unit that bolts to the distributor)?? Isn't the Duraspark an aftermarket unit?? If he has the standard Ford module on the distributor, I'm sure the exact problem you described could be happening to it also. The bad connection you are referring to could be anywhere, from the ignition switch all the way out to the module (even to the spark coil??). RabidWeasel, the wire that Racerchuck and I are referring to would be a ballast resistance wire (it has a DC resistance of a little over an ohm WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING). The wire that STARTS the engine has no electrical resistance at all (direct full voltage & current availability to the module & coil during cranking only). Do you have a freind with a multimeter, and a little electrical knowhow?? Or even just a 12V light tester will work.

 

At least, mine had the infamous TFI on the dist. I'd be looking at the module, and the ignition switch itself. But, I'd bet that was what got replaced on the column.. couldn't be neutral switch as they had floor shifters for autos and manuals...
My 5speed won't start unless the clutch is depressed. won't even crank. The neutral switch is similar, but shouldn't have anything to do with the start or run ignition circuits. There IS a 20 ohm resistor kinda taped into the wiring harness that could be giving problems as it 'filters' the PIP signal back to the ECM. Pull the codes...might find something there. Check the volts as mentioned on the TFI in run and start positions.
tom

 

TFI (Typical Ford Ignition ... no pun intended)

 

Hey RabidWeasel, I'm really curious ... have you made any progress???