Addco makes a sway bar that works without the notches. You can get them from Summit Racing, Ebay, etc. I have one on my garage floor awaiting installation right now.

 

I'm new here and Trying to get all of this straight. I have a 65 f100 and I'm wanting to go to discs this winter. So is the following information correct that I've gathered from this post?

1.) An entire front end will swap out of a 70's donor truck. The I-beams and radius arms bolt directly in and everything is good to go? Does the ride height change if same springs are used?

2.) If I use a donor truck with a sway bar (factory bar that is) will it work on my 65?

3.) I've seen some discussion on the 66 (which I assume are the same as the 65) and the 79 kingpins being interchangable which would allow for a spindle only swap from a proper year of truck.

Is all of this information correct or have a swapped something around?

 

Isnt the difference in kingpin length between a 65/66 and a later 70s F100 only about 1/10th of an inch?

Some seem to think that's enough difference to not mix and match parts, others report that it doesn't matter.

It confuses me.

In my case Im using everything off my 75 parts truck because I have a factory sway bar I want to install, and it will not install on my 66 parts.

 

Looking at a few parts joints the breaks for kingpin sets are 65, 66-74, and 75-79. Not sure what makes the 65 different, maybe someone that has done the 65 conversion can chime in with relevant information. From a few parts joints it appears 65 and 66 kingpins are the same length, but the location of the notch which locks the pin in place is in a different place; if that is the case you will need pins specific to your axle.

Like Shadowrider123 said, the difference in pin length from 66 to the 75-79 pins is not much, but if you have to buy a set then why not have more contact surface.

 

As stated in post 19, yes. If the donor was kept properly greased you very well may not need a king pin change, I didn't change mine.

After being here every day since the late 90s, peeps that do the mix & match come here with what is, why wont, when the complete set is swapped it doesn't happen.


John

 

I swapped 79 spindles onto my 65 with no issues.

Ride height remains the same if you use the 60s springs; you HAVE to, as the later ones won't work.

 

It's kinda been covered already but I'll add a couple of things. I converted my '66 to power steering, power discs with sway bar. I would have preferred to use 1 donor but used 2 because it just worked out that way. My spindles, beams, radius arms all came from a '78 F150. I preferred to swap the whole thing because there's less to remember when it's time to replace parts and since I was going to replace all the rubber bushings with urethane, the old parts would have to come out anyway.

The power steering box, column parts, MC & booster, & sway bar came from a '76 F250. I was originally going to get all my donor parts from this truck but didn't know until I got there that is was F250. The seller wasn't sure on the phone. I took the parts I knew would work and found the rest from the other truck.

I also got the brake hose mounting brackets from the donor because they're little different than your original ones.

 

Started the spindle swap went well 79 kingpin on my 66 I beams worked great. Tiring in brake lines need about 2 inches more on my brake booster push rod to brake pedal anyone know the best way to do this without buying a new booster. Thanks for your help

 

Use the ones from your donor.



John

 

[QUOTE=jowilker;13679200]Use the ones from your donor.

Disc brake conversion 66 ford f100 using a donor 79 f 100

Sorry I wasn't clear this is the brake booster master off of my donor truck. I read several post that said they had to lengthen the push rod not sure what the easiest way would be.thanks for any help.

 

Did you get the brackets and articulating linkage that was on the 79?

 

I assume if it is bolted to the firewall you have the booster to firewall mounting brackets from the donor; if not the booster would hit the firewall. The 79 setup link that bolts to the pedal is not adjustable and is indeed to short. You will have to measure the length you need from firewall to pedal attachment hole. Take a die grinder/ dremel and cut off the 79 rod. Weld to that a threaded collar/turnbuckle and install a threaded rod end with cinching nut into collar/turnbuckle to fine tune length. Make sure of the appropriate eye size in rod end to attach to pedal (I believe that would be 3/8") and make sure the rod end has the pivot insert that prevents binding when you attach the connection bolt/nut to pedal. Should cost you about 10.00 in parts and a welder willing to work for 1.5 minutes (or a friend with a welder).

 

First off thanks everyone for walking me through this conversion you guys have really bailed me out. Hopefully you can help with 1 more. The old brake light switch was screwed into the end of the 66 master cylinder. Now how do you tie in the brake lights do you have to attach switch to 66 brake pedal what's the easiest direction to go. Again thanks for everyone's help.

 

Have you looked into swapping your front suspension for a crown vic FS ?

 

I have heard it is a close bolt On with a few mods. I decided to try to keep a little old school