14 Bolt Truss
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Victoria , BC
14 Bolt Truss
Thought I'd post this up. I put together a 14 bolt truss in the past few nights for a buddy from some scrap steel.
heres how it went down..
Truss
Pinion gaurd plate cut out redneck style.
Connected pinion plate to a 3/8 tab on truss to be removeable.
welded tubes with some 5/32, 7018
heres how it went down..
Truss
Pinion gaurd plate cut out redneck style.
Connected pinion plate to a 3/8 tab on truss to be removeable.
welded tubes with some 5/32, 7018
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
Next step is he wants link tabs and a shave bottom and with a ballistic 3/8 cover it will be modified to make it a 13? Bolt I guess with some new tapped bottom holes as we'll lose the originals.
I was thinking weld the root with cast nirod for bottom plate then cap with 7018. I've heard and seen guys do all 7018 though with what seems to be working..
Any thoughts on what you know has worked for guys. Ni rods not cheap!
I was thinking weld the root with cast nirod for bottom plate then cap with 7018. I've heard and seen guys do all 7018 though with what seems to be working..
Any thoughts on what you know has worked for guys. Ni rods not cheap!
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
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From: North Dakota
Flux core wire... or 7018... just pre heat the center a bit, and weld the **** out of it.... than let it slowly cool should be fine
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From: Vancouver Island
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 68
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From: Vancouver Island
this link to some good 14 bolt shaves:
Shaved 14 bolt - Shave 14b Corporate clearance - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
Shaved 14 bolt - Shave 14b Corporate clearance - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
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From: Victoria , BC
Diff cover looks good. Better get on it and order it up!
As for the shave link I skimmed few pages and its funny about hand grinding the ring gear i joked about with you..lol Thats what guys actually do!
Your cover with shave bottom doesnt seem to need to modify the ring gear. We'll get this rig sitting on rubber one day soon now. If you wanna pick up axle anytime soon to start more mockup go ahead we can shave it later or even at your place as long as we got access to some 230v I'll bring over my Miller inverter.
As for cutting bottom a recip saw seems like it would take forever like the thread link! I'm in favour of a zip cut. The weld in threaded sleeve is a cool idea though for new cover bolt..
As for the shave link I skimmed few pages and its funny about hand grinding the ring gear i joked about with you..lol Thats what guys actually do!
Your cover with shave bottom doesnt seem to need to modify the ring gear. We'll get this rig sitting on rubber one day soon now. If you wanna pick up axle anytime soon to start more mockup go ahead we can shave it later or even at your place as long as we got access to some 230v I'll bring over my Miller inverter.
As for cutting bottom a recip saw seems like it would take forever like the thread link! I'm in favour of a zip cut. The weld in threaded sleeve is a cool idea though for new cover bolt..
I fixed it.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,441
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From: Muskegon, MI (home)
And of course it takes a Ford guy to build it right he he! Yeah I don't think he'll have to worry about bending or breaking that housing. I should post up some pics of the the 9" I built for the Bronco last winter, it's funny seeing the look on people's faces when they see it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2009
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Because Dana is a "Ford" axle?
Because a truss of this design does very little for strengthening the axle housing?
Id love to see it.
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Victoria , BC
We wanted to brace the truss to stop any twist as the links are mounted on it.
I just did a internet search and copied another one. This seems like a good solid design. The axle itself should be stronger as well though.
I built it so the truss is 1/2" over the top of diff but butted against the top flange of pot where I plan to weld a couple 2-3" long beads to stop any twist even more. Nutty4x4 keeps telling me about this heavy foot problem he's got and its gotta hold up!
I just did a internet search and copied another one. This seems like a good solid design. The axle itself should be stronger as well though.
I built it so the truss is 1/2" over the top of diff but butted against the top flange of pot where I plan to weld a couple 2-3" long beads to stop any twist even more. Nutty4x4 keeps telling me about this heavy foot problem he's got and its gotta hold up!