Uhh - don't you think a trick machine like that would become an instant "POLICE MAGNET"?

I do - and if I wanted a Kangaroo I'd emmigrate to down under...

I can see it already, news on the scanner:
"I have the offender in sight, it's a ford Ranger - but it's getting away from me. I need backup"
"Ahh - suspect vehicle matches profile of known street racers - are you code three at this time?"
"Negative, I'm still attempting to keep the ******* thing in sight..."
"Copy that. All units - probable street racer, GPS co-ords uploading now..."
"Detail me on that - I'm starting up that way now"
"Copy..."

Like I need THAT MUCH attention...

You should check out the gold, pearl, kandyapple, and KAMELEON KOLORS that they offer...

The place blew my mind - and there isn't much I've never seen before!

I AM totally serious about adding gold (!) colored GT-40 stripes once the first layer of color cures.

In fact I thought about many layers of clear or something under them - just under the stipes, and feathered out about eight inches so that the stripes looked like they were floating above the deck...


That is the prettiest "STUFF" though - second only to "SHIMRIN"....

*I sent a pm to sdetweil - because his "PLANET GREEN" paint scheme FLOORED me in one of the online shows

 

*I have gone through and sanitised all mention of (another site)

 

This info comes from a convo between me and Sam (sdetweil - whose incredible paint scheme I have wondered about for a long time, as in: How can I DO that?)

Re: I need your advice on paint....

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DUTCH J.: I'm lookin' at House of Kolor Kandy Cobalt Blue (hok000538) and I don't know if I need a special paint that will stay the same color when used on the engine itself...

Now, YOU had the BOMB paint I've seen so far on here, so someone knew what they were doing.

What can you tell me?

SAM: you will need one of the engine paint kits to prep the block and Heads before applying the final paint.
the difficulty here is that u need to apply the final paint before the engine paint hardens, or the body paint won't stick..

so, its engine paint prime, engine paint final (light color I think), and before flash closure, body paint base, body paint top (if you have a base/candy like I did), and then clearcoat again, before flash closure.
otherwise the body paint WILL peel..

Sam

DUTCH: Pregunta? (little question?)

I'm trying very hard not to present myself as a totally ignorent guy.

Which is difficult - since I am...

SAM: sorry.. was there a question?
when u spray paint, the solvent will evaporate for a while, and then the paint will harden.. this is called the flash point. after the flash point there is a window where the paint is soft enough that anothe coat will bond.. called a coating window. for my paint it was 4 hours. once past the window time, you have to sand the paint to get the next coat to adhere..

the paint will tell u the flash time and window closure time. you don't want to try to sand the engine paint.. trust me.. so you need to apply the body paint before the window closes

Sam

DUTCH: Sam?

May I quote this conversation in my build thread?

I think those points are important for a lot of people beginning to paint, like me

from http://houseofkolor.com/PDF/TechData/English/BC_FBC.pdf

SAM: Sure!
8. APPLYING Shimrin® BASES
After reducing, strain the paint into the paint gun. Gun distance while spraying should be approximately 6 inches. Apply 2-3 MEDIUM coats with 50% pattern overlap. Walk long objects. Avoid dry spraying, as loss of adhesion is possible. Again, MEDIUM coats work best. Allow flash time between coats.
NOTE: DO NOT APPLY HEAVY WET COATS OF BC & FBC BASES AND EXPECT THEM TO FLOW, THIS WILL TYPICALLY RESULT IN WRINKLING AND SPLITTING. They behave very much like lacquer, so apply medium coats only and avoid heavy build. Do not dry spray or lack of adhesion is possible. Apply medium coats, 50% pattern overlap. Flash dull between coats.
NOTE: 3 coats of Shimrin® BC or FBC Bases equals 1/2 to 3/4 mil, leaving a minimal edge. (Tape pulls away leaving a clean, low edge.)
9. DRY TIME
Allow dry time before Kandy or clear is applied (usually about 15 to 60 minutes and not longer than 4 hours). Topcoat within 4 hours or apply SG100 Intercoat Clear (see step 10).
Shimrin® FLASH TEST - ALL Shimrin® BASES WILL DRY DULL AND SHOULD FEEL DRY TO THE TOUCH BEFORE THE NEXT COAT IS APPLIED

What does it do? How long does it last? All of those questions -
Thank God for FTE and guys like Sam...


DRY SPRAY: Blowing air on the paint to correct a drip or make it dry faster
50% PATTERN OVERLAP: Exactly what it seems like. Half of the spray is on the last spray you did - you aim at the bottom edge

 

the dukes of hazard orange with flag is the paint scheme u need.

 

I've got bad news.

The "BOX" from Advanced Adapters arrived today - and the headers were nothing like the ones I specifically ordered - even though I checked the numbers thoroughly
~You know the drill, dot all the EYES, and so on

12:25 PM - I'm still angry, but trying to calm down.

 

OH LOOK AT WHAT I'VE GOT NOW...






Compare those headers with what they showed on their web page AS THOSE HEADERS and you will see why I freaked out when I opened the box.

But they just might have better flow after all...

The carb is a straight up Holley 650 square bore that I think will do well except in a wide open racing scenario. For now - it's all I really need. You can also see just how big the adapter plates actually are - and they are a two level set of 1/2" boiler plate. Welded so thoroughly that they look just plain invulnerable

THOSE will bolt into the engine cradle area in a way that sets the engine itself back about two or three inches and lifts it a fraction

***Life goes on, the grass is still green, and the sky is still blue...

 

Compare THIS


~ to the above, and ask me why I had a panic attack...

It ain't the same at all - IS IT?

***EDITED - we do not slam vendors at FTE, even though that one is not a sponsor of our site. "Nuff said on it...

It looks like I won't be painting the engine and trans before they go in - which is kind of a bummer.
But the other side of the coin is that running it for a while before pulling it and doing it up will ensure there are no leaks or problems.

 

*UPDATED. No more whining about what might have been

The project continues.

To spin up static oil pressure you need a deepwell 5/16th's on a speed handle. Most electric drills will burn up if used to drive an oil pump because of the force required
(I had smoke pouring out of a Black and Decker drill before I backed off). The rotation is counter clockwise (anti-clockwise for those who speak proper English)

It must be a deepwell so that if it falls off the driver it CANNOT fall into the engine - you don't want to have to take the oil pan off because of a foolish accident
*You can also make a special tool by tack welding a cheap socket onto a cheap extension - just to make sure of it!
The best choice is a six-point (or "HEX") socket

Nutshell version is that the engine has been flushed and is safe to turn. By doing this I ensured that it is lubricated everywhere before doing anything else...

Tonight it is draining so that I can pull the pan and timing case.

It has to have a different pan and also a timing cover made for a serpentine coolant pump

The new T-case is also a later one that won't need a blocking plate for the fuel pump (no room for a mechanical one)

And there is also THIS:

*Color of lines drawn indicate the color of the LED pointed at

~Posted because I promised I would to Stephen Komlos

I'm finding places in a Ranger dash trim panel where a lot of switches and indicators can be...
*The book is highly useful for it's electrical diagrams - I find

A Chilton's manual would be better in some ways - it provides other info while leaving out things found in a Haynes (and vice versa). Direct from FOMOCO is the best (if you have the cash - which I really don't) and also an inside connection. They just don't give that information away for nothing!

What I'd like to have I probably can't get unless I work for them.

 

hey greywolf i got dang neat that same cb! hey can u get me one of them linear things?

 

They can be ordered online - it's a fairly common ten meter/HAM booster Amp.

The trick is getting a C/B pro somewhere (and I don't have the equipment) to tune it to civil band.

Mine was set up by no less than Poppa Pondscum down in the flatlands of Florida...
*Come to think of it - I should see if I still have a good E-mail for the guy.

As of right now I'm about halfway through the oil and water pump conversion.

The block connections for the external oil cooler have also been installed, fairly cake install.

But the VIBRATION DAMPER! Shucks... Before I pull another one of them it looks like I need a new puller (the damper had to come off to swap the timing cover. The TC has to be changed because of the water pump )

I ALSO had to borrow a seal puller, mine seems to have dematerialized somewhere along the line. It's the only way to reasonably hook out the front tranny seal


What can I say? "CRUD" happens. You gotta think your way beyond it...



*I'm sure Jackie and Tommy McKnight would see it the same way

 

nice wolfie, maybe we can talk on a skip some night. I can reach Nc.

 

It's been a few years - I want it to RUN first.

Remember that I always said we should TAKE OVER both channel 4 and 40

(FORD and FORDY)

~Those should be our official FTE CB Channels...






Of course there is also FORDteen, Twenty FORD, Thirty FORD...


You decide.

 

hahahahaha, I use 2, but if I know when your on the air, I'll be on whatever channel you choose

 

channel 9?

 

WOW!

I just made a connection tonight - retired US MARINE. AND SHE (!) runs a graphics shop that can do complete WRAPS on vehicles...

I saw this SUV pull into the dollar store lot that was done in a complete STARS and STRIPES - with all four branches of the service represented on it -
She said if she had walked in the door to her shop and ordered it done retail it would be about 2 grand.

I got her card.

My plan UNO is to have the Ranger tailgate silver part in the center of it look exactly like the picture IN MY SIGNATURE

- YEAH, you got it.

IT CAN BE DONE!


I also want an F-14 launching off the deck on the hood...
(straight at ya)

~ Dreams can come true...