2.5 volts is about right for green / red wire doesn't take much to excite these. Matter of fact don't leave full battery voltage on there very long can blow the regulator. The yellow / white is used as reference voltage and they won't change with out it. The white / black is stator.

 

So I should only be seeing 2-3 volts on the exciter line? I have about 2 volts on the G/LR but i thought that meant there was a problem....

 

Do you have an amp gauge or a charge light?

 

Just using my Volt-Meter set to volts..

 

Trucks of this Era have a voltmeter, not an ammeter, correct???

​​​​​​​

 

This era is a volt gauge and they do have a battery light.

 

Yeah, I know but wondered why Subford would have asked.


When the 2G alternator was replaced, was the charge plug pigtail replaced per TSB 96214 as well?
​​​​​​​Does the charge plug show any signs of corrosion or overheating?
Has fusible link 'J' been tested for continuity?

 

He said he had another cluster and I did not know what year it was from. My 1983 F-150 302 has a amp gauge with a tachometer and the cluster looks the same as the 86-87 clusters other than having the gauge.

 

I was given a 1996 F150 5.0 with no cluster battery or alternator. replaced battery and alternator and it runs until battery dies. I spent all day yesterday learning that without a cluster the alternator will not engage. I'm prepared to replace the alternator and get back on the road, but I do not have a cluster, and need to know what kind of jumper I need to place on my harness to simulate my Dash being in place.

Really need to get subfords attention for this one!
Any help is great.

 

How can I simulate this circuit without a cluster? Please help.
405 593 3948
Stranded in Texas without a cluster..

 

Plug a 510 ohm resistor into the cluster wiring plug between the red with green stripe. And the green with red stripe. That will simulate the exciter circuit. Plug it into pin 1 and pin 14.

 

Or just short pin #1 to pin # 14 in C250.


/

 

Subford, thanks!
I had it hooked from 13 to 14, it wasn't working. 1 to 14 should do it though?

 

Use the resistor the voltage regulator won’t like 12v for very long.

 

the way it's been explained to me, the resistor is just there in case the dummy light dies out. If that's the case, the resistor would make no difference. The biggest important thing is that the 12 volts to the alternator is only on switched power and not constant. Hopefully somebody else can chime in and verify this information. I have ran a jumper from pin 1 to pin 14 and it's working great now.