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He stated that there is currently no emissions testing done in PA but he will give me all of my old hardware back in case it ever comes to that I can have it put back on. I'm OK with that.
It's the removal of emission controls that is illegal and you will be signing to approve the work. Did you read the link in the earlier post? If they raid that shop you could have a $2500 fine.
Apart from raising a finger to the EPA can anyone give a benefit of removing the EGR cooler?
Well, I got an updated quote minus the HPOP (updated fitting instead), minus the IPR and FICM. So, here's what we got for $4612 (tax included)
Updated Fitting for oil pump $58.25
EGR Delete $345.99
5W-40 Oil $112.20
REV-X Oil 8oz $65.90
Oil Filter $39.00
AntiFreeze $44.95
Updated HPOR Feed Tubes $63.99
Updated HPOR Plugs $20.50
Clean vains in turbo $60
Updated Engine Oil cooler $300.00
Fuel Filter/H20 seperator $78.03
6.0 Head Studs $584.99
6.0 Head Gasket Set $207.99
Clean, Mag, Deck and Pressure test heads $400
Largemouth intercooler pipe upgrade kit $409.95 (he said mine is plastic and is cracked)
26 hours labor $1560
What do ya think? This is probably what I'll go with.
I think the labor is OK but the parts are all over the board. I'd also be checking the headgasket set for $207 because that doesn't sound like OEM and studs can be had for $400 plus shipping. No need for an intercooler pipe upgrade either--that's a waste of $410 dollars. Factory pipe is plenty sufficient and a LOT cheaper. Oil filter $18 and fuel filter for about $35. Oil cooler $240 shipped.
I wonder about the pipe too. Is that an OEM? If not, what is the cost of an OEM pipe? I'm pretty sure the plastic one is obsolete, because the dealer installed an aluminum one on mine under warranty. I didn't pay, so I have no idea what it cost. I know I like the aluminum one much better.
As for the other parts, I don't expect a shop to sell me parts at their cost. So while I agree you can find them cheaper, it is only fair that they mark them up plus charge for the shipping.
As for the other parts, I don't expect a shop to sell me parts at their cost. So while I agree you can find them cheaper, it is only fair that they mark them up plus charge for the shipping.
I saw a sign on a local shop that said "I don't bring my own eggs to your restaurant, don't bring me your parts."
Yeah, I'm sure I could find some other parts a bit cheaper, but until I get the time wrapped up into shopping around for things, I probably wouldn't be much further ahead. On top of that, they have all the right part numbers and I'd have to research it. I'm fully aware they are marking some things up and they have to get theirs. Don't get me wrong though npccpartsman, I appreciate the information and the heads up about cheaper parts! It's nice having others on this forum look out for each other. I think I will ask them if they're OEM or the Black Onyx I've heard about. From what I've read, I want the OEM over the Black Onyx.
At some point you have to decide for yourself, is this the guy I want to trust with my truck? A lot like choosing a doctor. You can quibble on price a little bit, but be careful and respectful. Try to be the type of customer that you would want to work for. Trust is much more important than price.
Trust me....I understand exactly where yall are coming from. I've worked on all sides of this fence--LOL. I just wanted him to be aware, especially about the headgaskets.
The largemouth kit is NOT a factory part--the metal tube runs about $200 IIRC but may not include boots.
I saw a sign on a local shop that said "I don't bring my own eggs to your restaurant, don't bring me your parts."
I liked that.
Have you seen this one?
We do three types of work here
Cheap, Quick, and Good. Pick any two.
A Quick, Good job won't be Cheap.
A Good, Cheap job won't be Quick.
And a Quick, Cheap job won't be Good.
IMO bill is on the moeny and the labor times are just about right at 26
cheezit, do you mean the bill I was given is on the money or the guy named Bill (bpounds) is on the money? A little confused. His sig says "Folks call me Bill..." If you meant the bill they gave me, which one did you mean?
being that bill says the bill is about right I find both bill and the bill to be just about on the money... so far as the bill is concerned and the bills assessment by bill
for some odd reason now I feel like a politician.
but yes I do side with bpounds
Cheezit, I see you have the EGR delete listed in your sig. As you've seen, most on here say to go with the upgraded Bulletproof cooler instead of a full delete. What would you recommend and why? I ask you because of your reputation on here, not because I don't trust the other guys, just curious about your opinion.
I did a delete because from time to time I burn other "fuels" and less then prim virgin diesel more often then not ( i had to buy 4 tanks of fuel so far this year). I do have a pretty neat recycling center in my stalls at the shop. I dont suggest others doing that either.
If I were to do it again I would more then likly go to bullet proofs cooler. I have yet to hear of one breaking.
this does away with any need for a tuner and lets you run stock to tow with aswell.
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