I've got a 95' Bronco 5.8l w/ auto. Lately its been stalling going down the freeway, it will shut down then start back up? Today it I had to put it into put it into to try to restart, got it going, back in drive and keep on going... It happened a couple times on the freeway, then trying to get in my driveway. I thinking loose connection, or ignition issue, maybe fuel pump? I've got a few check engine lights that come on/off but none while this has happened??? I'd like to figure it out before the truck is dead in the water, although that may make troubleshooting easier.

 

so you dont get any kind of indicator lights for anything before or durring the stall? id look into the fuel pump and or relay, it could be several things electrical hicups. Scan for codes first off

 

Codes, first. The CM records may give you a clue even if the light did not come on. Check grounds, disassemble, clean and dielectric grease, on the fender beside the battery and by the driver side hood hinge. Possibly gas, 10% ethanol become 10% watery mush in a short time. Possibly, ignition control module or stator in the distributor. If you choose the latter I suggest replacing the stator in the distributor with Motorcraft rather than getting a rebuilt distributor which may fail in the heat also.

Obviously it could be a number of things. Even a bad oxygen sensor stalled mine in cruise when it idled going down a hill.

So i would clean grounds, disconnect battery 30 minutes to clear codes. Then pull KOEO codes and check back with us if you do not get "passed" 111 code. Then check for KOER codes. If you do get 111 drive it around the block then check codes in CM, continuous memory.

 

x2 pulling codes should be done asap. i also agree that pulling your bat cables and cleaning them up real good or even replace if they are original hardware. cable corosion can seep down the cable and not be visible.

when it cuts out did you notice hiting any bumps or anything like that? you might also consider having your altenator tested and your battery. I doubt it being a fuel issue just yet. pumps tend to either run or not.

 

rebuild or replace the distributor.

 

Thanks for the input. I got home and started to troubleshoot, tried starting... At least it's dead in my driveway. I pulled codes and got a 624= electronic pressure control solenoid or driver circuit failure. ???
Haynes manuals suck...

I'm not sure if this is the cause of my problems. Will this e4od code cause a no start problem? This may be a left over from the previous owner he said the transmission had about 15,xxx miles on it.

I did get a 111 code after the 624.

 

The consensus on FTE is the PCM (computers) rarely fail. I had transmission shifting issues and varying transmission codes. After six months of throwing parts at it I sent the PCM to ECMTOGO.COM which fixed the transmission. While it was gone I replaced the distributor stator. Since then it has never stalled nor failed to start. I don't know for sure which fixed it but I suspect it was the PCM repair.

 

how much did it cost to get your PCM fixed?

 

dont over think this. thats the first mistake people make with efi. it still uses the same principals as back in the carb days. you need fuel, spark, and air. if either of those are not present you wont be starting anything.

so does the motor turn over but not fire? pull some plugs and confirm that they are getting fuel. if they are then perhaps the coil is bad. swing by a wrecking yard and get a coil and even a distributor. this will be cheap and be good troubleshooting.

 

Freight both ways plus S195 AFTER they tested and repaired it. Look at their web site, call and talk with them, print two copies of their send form and enclose one with the PCM.

Again...this is the last thing that fails usually.

 

I did some more troubleshooting tonight, I have no spark. I have BATT at the coil, and checked coil resistance: Pri=.6 ohms; and Sec=8.14 kohms. The primary tests within spec, but the secondary is on the edge (8,000-11,500 ohms) I was also able to test the ballast resistor it started on with a bouncing resistance, and ended with an open. I have a few more things to check tomorrow but I'm gong to get a new ballast resistor, and maybe a new coil.
I did hear the fuel pump engage and I do smell fuel, but I haven't checked pressure.

 

if you get a new coil get it from Ford. do not put any other coil on there ok.

 

I was going to replace the coil, and ballast resistor but I was going through the ignition system looking for other issues, and I found one. I am a little confused on what the results are supposed to be? I was checking out the ICM, and on the plug side the book says to test #2,3,&4 terminals for voltage and to use distributor for ground.
#2 = 11.3vdc w/ key in the run position.
#3 = 11.3vdc w/ key in the run position, and 11.3vdc w/ the S wire disconnected from starter relay.
#4 = .891vdc w/ key in run, and start, and with the S wire disconnected.
The book says if voltages are within 90% of BATT v then they TOK; BATT=11.71vdc
#4 comes from the PCM, do I have a problem with the PCM, or is that a good voltage at term. 4?

 

I have never tested so don't know. Remember, the 92 or so and later have the Computer Controlled system system and I think a wire goes to the PCM. Prior Had Push Start with a resistor in the wire.

Hopefully, some one will jump in here soon with your answer.

 

F350 , i feel you are headed in the right direction as u stated loose connection, these connections may also ,be the ground wires points. Most check closest ground points in a 12 volt circuit(well 13-14 volts). Our trucks are getting older and the ground points (individually )( need to be checked and cleaned ), not thats its your problem, but here, fte ver the years ground connections have been a hot topic . My case for a dieing truck , years past ,was the famous igniton module. Good luck TR