Did you ever solve this problem? My 06 Mountaineer has gone through 4 coil packs and some plugs, the problem is still there. If I accellerate between 50-70mph the bucking starts. My extended warranty ran out.

 

I havnt had a problem since I installed a new Fuel Pump Control modulator

The old one didnt look corroded or broken in anyway, but must have been faulty in some way.

I just wish I came to this forum before I spent 800 beans for the wrong diagnosis.

 

ok thanks. So just to confirm your problem was little bucks when accellerating on the highway somewhere around 50, and the problem went away at higher speeds, and you have the 3 valve 4.6L V8 all correct? If so, on my dime I am going to take a chance and replace it on my own (what can a lose except a few bucks - I've already spent 400 just on the deductible cost under my extended warranty each time I went to the dealer)

 

The part cost 100 or so, better than the 800 dollar Ford bill.

Yeah it was just bucking away. not always, which made it difficult to try to show Ford the problem. If I recall it was mostly around the 50 mph mark, but could do it at any speed.

 

Thanks. Is this part also called a Fuel Pump Driver Module?

 

Seems to have variations on the name, but yeah

04-04 F150 FUEL PUMP CONTROL MODULE 4L3Z-9D370-A 4L3Z 9D370 A 5L8Z-9D370-A - Photo ID 39355

 

06 Mountaineer, double check the Ford shop manual under fuel systems or ask your Ford parts pro or a Ford tech. On a lot of Fords the fuel pump driver module is actually part of the fuel pump assembly. It is on Tauruses. When that was the problem on our Taurus I retrieved a P0191 code. That P0191 code also seems to be the case with the F150's. Just a suggestion. The symptoms sound like that's the problem, but check it out first before throwing parts at it. It'll save time and $ in the end.

 

2005 F150 5.4 L v8 Triton 4X4 stuttering around 40 mph and O2 Sensors and Cat Sensor Not Ready. Replaced the fuel module and problem is solved.

 

I've noticed that my sputtering is only while the EOD is turned ON and I accelerate between 40 and 70 MPH. With the EOD turned OFF, I do not have acceleration issues. I asked a mechanic friend of mine and he suggested that the coils or boots were the problem. This doesn't make sense because the sputtering is only with EOD ON.

Anyone able to confirm my suspicion that my electronic overdrive my be the root of the problem?

 

I'm lost here.

I've had my truck at the Ford Dealership for the past 2 weeks now. I took it to them due to code P0191 showing. It was running poorly, black smoke from exhaust, sputtering. The guy i bought it from told me the board was bad. I decided to try and fix the cheaper things first. So I replaced fuel pressure sensor. FPDM is in good shape. All compression test on injectors were ok. The dealership scanner pulled up like 10 codes my friends shop didn't (he had a very expensive scanner). All the codes they told me came up pointed to the Throttle body (which I had cleaned a week before). So they ripped me a new one charging me $700 for a new throttle body. I went and picked my truck up that day....drove fine otw home....next morning check engine light back on, same code showing, and same symptoms happening intermittently. Ford has came to me with different "could be" reasons....fuel injector....defective pressure sensor....even came to me saying that it seemed to be dropping pressure when turning the wheel one direction, which makes no sense at all.....or it could be electrical (which i told them from the beginning, about being told the board was bad) Any ideas?

 

I read about your issue. I've been having a sputtering issue with my 5.4 Triton v8 and asked a buddy at work if he'd experienced this issue since his f150 has the exact same motor. What he said was there a leak somewhere below the wipers that allows water to drip into and sit in the engine block, corroding the coils. I reached to the back of mine on my lunch break and sure enough, there was some play and a wet spot just below it. The guy told me a friend of his replaced the corroded coil(s) and coated them with silicone to waterproof them and it seemed to work.

 

I had been questioning that myself. Mis-fires ~ 40/45 in O.D. went away w/o O.D. . Also seemed to be a little worse when the weather was damp. Plugs and Accel coils got rid of that issue. I had figured that the boots were bad causing it to be worse wet, but 6 of the 8 coils were cracked, although I had no codes (unusual).
I'm taking a trip to PA. and N.C., so today I got a new FPCM and installed it as a "just because", and even tho the truck ran good before the new module, it's better now. Makes me wonder about my fuel pressure. Another thing to check pre-trip.

 

Another words its lugging that's the zone misfires are apparent. We see it all the time, it happened to me . A hill helps it show up . The misfire threshold on ford is set high to not be an false fail of emissions . It can be seen in code readers, mode six display which lists raw computer counts for each cyl building towards setting a code . Ideally this should be zero and is achievable with a proper hosp clean plug/boot job .
It is confusing to most people as they say I don't have a CEL so it must be okay . Some guys and shops have even done a trans rebuild for misfires because of the bucking .People also are very reluctant to replace boots because they look good even if they have 100k on them . They are fairly cheap and a lot of coils come with them . Not to mention those who still believe in a 100k plus plug change . That was a sales tactic and just causes grief especially when ford came up with failing plugs that seized in the head then broke off .
Next some people believe its normal to maint change all coils .Its not necessary as OEMs can get corroded terminals they rarely fail . Aftermarkets never worked for me in six months mine failed .I have 7 oem coils and one duralast guaranteed at 201k .You can't really believe you get the same thing as oem costing $50 each and after market $6, a really good high voltage coil takes high grade silicon steel and bubble-less epoxy of high grade .One turn to turn short on the thousands of turns knocks it to junk.
Not torquing in the plugs with a torque wrench to the higher 25-28 foot pounds leads to blowby and plugs destroying themselves. Plus it can launch the whole assembly taking some of the aluminum threads with it .
I can understand a shop trying to make money on plugs and being in a hurry and even not attempting the difficult ones . That's why we encourage guys to do their own ,you have lots of time they don't . I know there are engines that have to be pulled to change some plugs on older cars ,some new ones you have to pull the intake . So this doesn't rise to this level .
Split cops are abnormal they can't be oem . Too many guys like fancy colored ones and just like fishing lures they get caught --fish don't buy lures .
Damp weather and cracked COPS ,do you think that may have the high voltage shorting out with moisture !!! We have heard this also .
A very good code reader for this engine is the $5 torque pro app /amazon bluetooth reader around $20 bucks /android phone activated or not .
If you pressure wash this engine you better know your stuff .
Learn to do a really good plug job and take your time .It will be good for 60k .

 

I've got this same issue with my 2008. The plugs/boots were changed over in October 2007. Mine was assembled September 2007, so I have the old design black boots. I've put off changing my plugs for quite a while. Mine only bucks trying to ease up my MPH around 55 to 60. If I hit harder and it downshifts, no bucking. At first I thought it was a need to change transmission fluid. I've heard someone saying it is transmission related, but only that the torque convertor is unlocking and locking back at this RPM/MPH. I can't believe this happens to me everyday and no code has ever tripped. I've got 146K miles now and hope for 200+.

 

I'm going to make a rash assumption and figure you meant the plugs were changed in '17, not '07. Mine (believed to be original) had 116K, and 6 of 8 coils were cracked while 7 0f 8 plugs came out cleanly. I bought the truck last June @113K with no service history. Aside from now having no discernible misfires, it runs noticeably better overall.