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Mod list... What do you all think

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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 01:23 PM
  #1  
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Mod list... What do you all think

Ive had a van turbo sitting on my kitchen floor for 6 months or so now waiting to be put in. I was waiting to get the bellowed up-pipes but funds dont seem to be there for them any time soon, so this is my plan for now. Im gonna get Felpro P/N 8194 gaskets to stop the leaks in my up-pipes for now. Install a WW, Frx, Hpx, and a 1.15 adapter flange. My truck is only making at best 18psi of boost, my turbo shaft moves in and out about 3/16''. I have leaking manifolds but cant afford to fix that for now and there not leaking that bad, just a little on the driver side. I have a black CPS and o-ring on my list but Clay is out of them right now so that will have to wait too, I only wanted that as a back up to keep in the glove box. This all nets me just over $500 compaired to the almost $1400 I totaled with the up-pipes and JW valve body but thats gonna have to wait.
Is there anything Im missing or any prevenative maintnance I should do while Im doing this?
I know I have to delete the EBPV too, does anyone have a list of things Ill need to do that too?
Anyone have any idea what kinda power difference I should get out of doing these things too?
Thanks
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 02:56 PM
  #2  
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From: BoCoMo
Originally Posted by JOHN2001
Ive had a van turbo sitting on my kitchen floor for 6 months or so now waiting to be put in. I was waiting to get the bellowed up-pipes but funds dont seem to be there for them any time soon, so this is my plan for now. Im gonna get Felpro P/N 8194 gaskets to stop the leaks in my up-pipes for now. Install a WW, Frx, Hpx, and a 1.15 adapter flange. My truck is only making at best 18psi of boost, my turbo shaft moves in and out about 3/16''. I have leaking manifolds but cant afford to fix that for now and there not leaking that bad, just a little on the driver side. I have a black CPS and o-ring on my list but Clay is out of them right now so that will have to wait too, I only wanted that as a back up to keep in the glove box. This all nets me just over $500 compaired to the almost $1400 I totaled with the up-pipes and JW valve body but thats gonna have to wait.
Is there anything Im missing or any prevenative maintnance I should do while Im doing this?
I know I have to delete the EBPV too, does anyone have a list of things Ill need to do that too?
Anyone have any idea what kinda power difference I should get out of doing these things too?
Thanks
overhaul your fuel bowl.

Welcome to guzzle's Powerstroke Fuel Bowl Rebuild Web Page
(from kit instructions)
NOTE: If you remove the fuel rail lines from the cylinder heads, this kit contains the fuel sleeves for the filter bowl ends only. It is recommended to also replace the sleeves on the cylinder head end of the fuel rail lines once they have been removed as they will no longer seal properly. Order part # 7-004 to supplement this kit.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 03:05 PM
  #3  
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Skip the WW and install the van-turbo.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by miller_feed
Skip the WW and install the van-turbo.
I plan on installing the WW on the van turbo
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by JOHN2001
I plan on installing the WW on the van turbo
I don't think I would do that. The WW will move less air then the original wheel. With the 1.15 housing you will not get any surge.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JOHN2001
I plan on installing the WW on the van turbo
That would be a downgrade on a van turbo.

All you need is a 1/4" pipe tap and 1/4" pipe plug to delete EBPV on pedestal. (and a 470ohm resistor!)

I put a van turbo on my X with leaky up-pipes and NO GAINS, put bellowed up-pipes on and fix boost leaks and now its all good. I wish I could quantify power increase, but fixing drive and boost leaks and doing 4" exhaust at the same time - its hard to tell exactly how much I gained.

Since you have the van turbo and must have some spare time, go ahead and try to seal up your stock up-pipes and throw the turbo on. Be sure to CHECK for boost leaks when ya get it all buttoned up! (make a cheap boost leak detector for less than a Starbucks )

I recommend Riffraff CAC boots, plenum inserts and t-bar clamps for keeping those boost leaks from coming back. That goes for EVERYBODY, I'm surprised how many 7.3's I see with OBVIOUS boost leaks!!!
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by miller_feed
I don't think I would do that. The WW will move less air then the original wheel.
I had no idea until recently that's what WW did! A cheap bandaid for the REAL problem - drive pressure. The larger exhaust wheel/larger housing on the van turbo prevent surge!
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 04:53 PM
  #8  
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You guys just saved me another $100, WW outta the question. Whats the 470 ohm resistor for? I just got back to work not too long ago so Im playing catch up more than anything right now thats why Im not going with the uppipes yet, Im gonna chance it and get new gaskets for now and hopefully Ill be in good shap in a few months enough to get my valve body and bellowed uppipes.
Maybe with the $100 you guys just saved me and Clay not having any black CPS in stock Ill get the CAC boots.
Can you elaborate more on the plenum inserts, I know nothing about them.
About how long should I expect these mods to take me to put on? Ive been doing good if I get 2 days a week off
Thanks guys
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 10:17 AM
  #9  
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plenums will take a second to install, with the turbo and spider removed. I'd get the "cabinet" o-ring kit. Has o-rings for EVERYTHING. Can also "fix" the hold-down bracket on the pass-side head, that secures the fuel rail, its known to rub thru it and cause a leak.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 03:21 PM
  #10  
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I also have a bad oil leak coming from the top of the engine I have to track down too my trans is covered in oil and it's getting all over my driveway. If u guys have any other suggestions on things I should do or get please keep them coming if u guys could post a wright up for me too that be much appreciated. This will be a new experience for me because I've never has to get into the engine this far it'll be my first time pulling a turbo ever.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 04:14 PM
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The resistor will go in the plug end when you unhook the crap from the pedestal. It prevents the soft codes from being thrown.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 04:36 PM
  #12  
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The plenum inserts are an excelent product. They install very quickly while the spider is off and allow you to really tighten down the spider to plenum boots without fear of distorting or crushing the thin metal of the plenums.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 05:23 PM
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Riffraff Plenum Reinforcements

Hopefully your oil leak is the turbo pedestal o-rings or the EBPV actuator and the MODS you are doing will solve the leak.

Take a good look at the HPOP fittings and hoses while your under the hood.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 10:26 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by PaysonPSD

Take a good look at the HPOP fittings and hoses while your under the hood.
CLEAN the engine very well, several wash sessions - then look for leak with a BRIGHT light and a mirror!! The HPO lines to heads and all the fittings on HPOP are first suspect. The 'plug' on back of HPOP has leaked on both my PSD's.

X2 on guzzles 'parts cabinet'. This fits in glovebox/toolbox and has everything you need for 'common' leaks/issues. I have used parts from this to fix people on the side of the road too!
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 11:05 AM
  #15  
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What I have for the install right now is a turbo install kit with new bolts and orings. Outside of what has been named is there any surprises I should know about or something I should have on hand that's known to brake when doing these mods? I wish the plenums wernt so pricy but I'm gonna get those too. Any other pointers that could help me out too or is it pretty straight forward for me from here? I'll probably order and tackle this list next month and knock it out. Thanks for the help guys
 
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