Patina..?..Not so much..
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2006
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Patina..?..Not so much..
I want to compound and wax the original fire red/silver paint on my '84. I know the silver will probably not shine much..but what is the best compound to bring the red up a bit. I'm old school..so Turtle Wax comes to mind..but what is better ?..
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
I used rubbing compound on my and it worked well. However, the hooh's paint was chalk thru and thru, so I got no shine there.
You know, thinking of the hoods, I'm wondering if Ford painted them thinner than everything else. So many of them are rusted, and/or losing paint when the cabs aren't, and they've been in the same sun.
You know, thinking of the hoods, I'm wondering if Ford painted them thinner than everything else. So many of them are rusted, and/or losing paint when the cabs aren't, and they've been in the same sun.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Yes, polishing compound is a good choice if your paint is just oxidized a bit. It'll leave more paint than rubbing compound. Start with it and if it works great. If it doesn't take enough or the compound gets stuck in the finish then switch to the more aggressive rubbing compound.
And, finish with a good wax. If you got all the dead paint off you won't need a wax with a cleaner or polish in it.
And, finish with a good wax. If you got all the dead paint off you won't need a wax with a cleaner or polish in it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,362
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From: Florence, SC
Originally Posted by ozark1
Mine isn't chalked..But the top is silver..and it's dull. Probably won't shine much. I think rubbing compound might be a little too abrasive..Maybe polishing compound ??..Then a good wax...
Ozark, I would love to see pictures of your red and silver truck! Is it a "Deluxe" tu-tone or is it the "Victoria" tu-tone?
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Laughing Gas
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The clay bar helps with laying down an even surface, but if you have any kind of micro surface abrasion (swirls) or oxidation, you'll need to hit it with a mildly abrasive compound to even out the surface layer.
I have a pretty serious orbital buffer that I use.
It works wonders on oxidation. (and swirls)
I have a pretty serious orbital buffer that I use.
It works wonders on oxidation. (and swirls)
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No.
The clay bar is like running sticky tape on a shirt that has dog hair on it, picks up things you couldn't get off by regular washing. It does NOTHING to polish the surface, other than help in creating a uniform polish surface which increases the final gloss level.
If you hit it with polishing compound first, odds are the buffer will pick up whatever's stick to the paint (and also it's likely that it'll swirl it around.)
You attack a polishing project by using the least abrasive compound you have to use, and then going up from there.
So!
1. Wash the car
2. Clay the car
3. wash the car again (to eliminate clay residue)
4. "Polish"
5. Seal. (sealant/wax)
Polishing the car would mean starting from an appropriate level, the following is a list of abrasiveness:
1. Wet sanding (for runs, paint imperfections / minor high spots)
2. Rubbing compound
3. Heavy polish (heavy swirl remover)
4. Lighter polish (removes minor swirls and any haze from the heavier polish)
All of the steps of polishing are designed to remove evidence of the step before, and create a much smoother paint surface.
Good luck!
The clay bar is like running sticky tape on a shirt that has dog hair on it, picks up things you couldn't get off by regular washing. It does NOTHING to polish the surface, other than help in creating a uniform polish surface which increases the final gloss level.
If you hit it with polishing compound first, odds are the buffer will pick up whatever's stick to the paint (and also it's likely that it'll swirl it around.)
You attack a polishing project by using the least abrasive compound you have to use, and then going up from there.
So!
1. Wash the car
2. Clay the car
3. wash the car again (to eliminate clay residue)
4. "Polish"
5. Seal. (sealant/wax)
Polishing the car would mean starting from an appropriate level, the following is a list of abrasiveness:
1. Wet sanding (for runs, paint imperfections / minor high spots)
2. Rubbing compound
3. Heavy polish (heavy swirl remover)
4. Lighter polish (removes minor swirls and any haze from the heavier polish)
All of the steps of polishing are designed to remove evidence of the step before, and create a much smoother paint surface.
Good luck!
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,362
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From: Florence, SC
Originally Posted by ozark1
Lariat..Sent you an Email..Never heard of..Victoria..or Deluxe..Maybe you can tell ..
MIGHTY FINE truck you have there! That paint scheme you have is very unusual. Here is a visual of Ford's tu-tone designs.
As you can see, it's definitely not a Victoria tu-tone, but it isn't exactly how Ford did their Combination tu-tones either. It looks like a hybrid of both the Regular and the Victoria tu-tones. I have never seen a color combination like that one before, but I think it looks really nice like that, and has a "stock" look to it. My guess is that someone customized the paint colors.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2006
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Lariat..Thanks for the info. and the photo. post. The orange stripe is tape..like is mentioned in your info. Haven't heard from anyone else on the color scheme..Soon as the weather cools...I'll clay/compound/wax..The 3 row radiator is worlds better..Now runs at O to R........But, I just bought a new SW mechanical temp gauge..I'm gunshy after 2 NEW senders were faulty...thanks to all the members who chimed in...Jerry.........PS..Did get a couple ??s about the grille guard..It is a modified factory FORD item..I rounded all the corners..replaced the bent light bar with the polished aluminum one..changed to stainless hardware..and painted it to match the truck..The lights are tractor items..