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can someone give some symptons of a bad or going bad voltage reg... when the engine is cold i have no problems but when it warms up the ammeter start going nuts at any electrical change radio, wipers, ect. additionally when i go back to idle the lights dim noticably (interior also). i have drivin to the zone and had them check the alternator, battery, and starter. battery is 3 days old and perfect. zone said starter was great and alt was good. thanks for all in advance.
I HIGHLY recommend replacing it with the GM alternator conversion that people do here. I did it and I will never go back to the generator. The alternator is a million times better and its not worth fiddling with the old school stuff.
But to answer your question, a battery that is not charging properly is the sign of a bad generator/voltage regulator. I wish I could tell you more specifically, but like I said, I recommend you switch to the alternator anyway. You can do it in half a day and it works like a dream.
put a voltmeter across the battery terminals with the truck running, you should see somewhere around 14 volts. as mentioned, check/clean all connections.
can someone give some symptons of a bad or going bad voltage reg... when the engine is cold i have no problems but when it warms up the ammeter start going nuts at any electrical change radio, wipers, ect. additionally when i go back to idle the lights dim noticably (interior also). i have drivin to the zone and had them check the alternator, battery, and starter. battery is 3 days old and perfect. zone said starter was great and alt was good. thanks for all in advance.
I had the same issue... replaced the regulator and all was good, for about a year... then it happened again then it was the stater Solenoid and it happened again .. removed the Generator, regulator, and all of that wiring... Bought a brand new Ford cased GM type one wire alternator from Summit for $73 bucks.. the brand is Tuff Stuff. it is 100 amp... took 15 minutes to install, now everything works great, battery is always fully charged, engine turns over much easier, the lights are brighter, everything works right. my gauge always stays at 14 volts or higher... The new unit looks like the old Ford unit and fits in as a direct swap, no mods, with out that regulator box hanging on the inner fender, one very large wire going directly to the positive terminal of the batter... a true no brainer!