Updated Wiring Harness?
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 58
Likes: 1
From: Marysville Wa.
I am putting an EZ wire harness in the 4x4 as the savages got to the factory harness (toggle switches everywhere the key only works the windshield wipers) and the factory fuse panel is like dust.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Check performance4trucks.com. I bought the Painless kit - with the switches for $490.00 with free shipping. I think there was a site wide discount being offered or I found a discount code online. Either way, they are $599 for P/N: 10118 on their site now. Or, you can order it from Autozone and you can get a $100 Auto Zone Gift card if you buy it online.
I would see if you can find a discount code to apply to an order on performance4trucks - might save you some coin.
I would see if you can find a discount code to apply to an order on performance4trucks - might save you some coin.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
Never installed a painless kit but I researched it prior to modifying my electrical system for fuel injection. Their kit appears to offer too little for the price. IE reuse several connectors because replacements are not available. I would find donors at the junkyard and repair before springing for the kit.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Actually, I am going to be installing it in a couple weeks - pulling the top end off the motor as well as other parts under the hood. I will post up a thread sharing my installation experience when it is done.
Here is what P/N: 10118 includes:
This harness has six major sections: <?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = O /><O:P></O:P>
Here is what P/N: 10118 includes:
This harness has six major sections: <?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = O /><O:P></O:P>
- Engine section- Coolant temperature, Oil pressure, Tachometer, Coil, Electric choke and A/C compressor.
- Driver's side front section- High beam headlight, Low beam headlight, Park lights, Left turn signal, Horn, Wiper motor, Washer motor and Brake proportioning valve.
- Passenger side front section- High beam headlight, Low beam headlight, Park lights, Right turn signal, Horn, Voltage regulator, Starter solenoid, Battery and Alternator.
- Gauge cluster section- This section includes these year specific harnesses/pigtails: 1967-1969, 1970-1974, 1975-1977.
- Under dash section- Heater & A/C switch, Headlight switch, Turn signal switch, Glove box hazard switch, Radio, Tachometer, Ignition switch, Cigar lighter, Dimmer switch, Brake switch, Heater blower resistor block, Heater blower motor, Wiper switch, Wiper motor, Cargo light switch, Door jamb switches and Courtesy lights.
- Tail section- Tail lights, Stop lights, Turn signals, Backup lights, License plate light and Fuel sending unit.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Any aftermarket wiring harness you buy for an early-model Ford will not have factory Ford connectors that would otherwise make it a drop-in replacement. Painless even shows on their website how the harness connects to various switches using plain and simple crimp terminals. You won't have all the factory Ford plastic connectors; if you want that then you'll have to install them yourself using the originals. Many of these type of connectors are Ford-specific housings that required special crimp tools to construct.
The main advantage to a Painless harness is that everything is color coded and cut to length; but I personally do not believe it's worth the amount of money these things cost. I personally would refuse to pay hundreds upon hundreds of dollars for something that is terminated using spade connectors that you can get at Lowe's. However, it works for people, and it does get the job done in a clean fashion. It would be something to think about if you had absolutely nothing to start with.
I am currently rebuilding a wiring harness for another (Ford) vehicle and I'm splicing in the original connector ends for all of the circuits and routing the majority of it with bulk wire. I'm using the original as a template (it's all there, just badly burned).
The main advantage to a Painless harness is that everything is color coded and cut to length; but I personally do not believe it's worth the amount of money these things cost. I personally would refuse to pay hundreds upon hundreds of dollars for something that is terminated using spade connectors that you can get at Lowe's. However, it works for people, and it does get the job done in a clean fashion. It would be something to think about if you had absolutely nothing to start with.
I am currently rebuilding a wiring harness for another (Ford) vehicle and I'm splicing in the original connector ends for all of the circuits and routing the majority of it with bulk wire. I'm using the original as a template (it's all there, just badly burned).
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,110
Likes: 32
From: southwest pa
seem to remember one of them used all the ford connectors. im thinking it was the centech harness. they even had factory style accessories you could order, like the light switch, hi-low switch, and some others.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
From: Graham, Wa.
The Centech kit that I used did include all the factory switches except the heater switch for around $450. Install was a snap and they even modified the harness to incorporate my new one-wire alternator and the DUI before they shipped it.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Austin
It's an entire wiring kit with the switches. The kit without switches is a bit cheaper, but neither are actually "complete." I'm not too sure about the install because it'll still be awhile before I install mine. I glanced over the instructions, and they said on certain years original grommets have to be used also.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 649
Likes: 0
This might be the way to go then. I don't mind paying for that cost if it is plug and play. Guy at work said the painless are more of a unverisal kit.