Holley street dominator vs stock d5te 4bbr
#1
Holley street dominator vs stock d5te 4bbr
I know the street dom is a better manifold for high rpm
does anyone have comparative graphs on these manifolds.
Its on a 390, with msd 7al, flowtech headers and street dom intake.
Its for my mud race truck and in stock class i can have 3 bolt ons.
If the manifolds are close up to 5800 rpm i will ditch the dominator in favor of another bolt on like electric waterpump
Running through a stock holley carb (570 i think)
Or should i run a edlebrock perf/rpm and sell both of my old manifolds?
does anyone have comparative graphs on these manifolds.
Its on a 390, with msd 7al, flowtech headers and street dom intake.
Its for my mud race truck and in stock class i can have 3 bolt ons.
If the manifolds are close up to 5800 rpm i will ditch the dominator in favor of another bolt on like electric waterpump
Running through a stock holley carb (570 i think)
Or should i run a edlebrock perf/rpm and sell both of my old manifolds?
#2
I would recommend Jay Browns Great FE Intake Comparo book. Everything you want to know about which intake is best for a given app. plus lots of other exhaust dyno, oiling, and compatability info.
In this case it's a no brainer though, the Holley SD is MUCH better than the factory "T" intake. The difference @5800 is almost 50hp.
You are pushing the limits of your 570? carb at those rpms though. A 600cfm autolite 4100 might do you a bit better. Still a stock piece.
If you're looking for a little more power you might consider an RV type cam with a smooth idle. No one will know if you keep it reasonable. The Lunati Voodoo lineup is pretty good at accomplishing this. Good idle quality for the lift and duration being that they use an asymmetrical cam lobe instead of the symmetrical lobe most others use.
In this case it's a no brainer though, the Holley SD is MUCH better than the factory "T" intake. The difference @5800 is almost 50hp.
You are pushing the limits of your 570? carb at those rpms though. A 600cfm autolite 4100 might do you a bit better. Still a stock piece.
If you're looking for a little more power you might consider an RV type cam with a smooth idle. No one will know if you keep it reasonable. The Lunati Voodoo lineup is pretty good at accomplishing this. Good idle quality for the lift and duration being that they use an asymmetrical cam lobe instead of the symmetrical lobe most others use.
#4
I would recommend Jay Browns Great FE Intake Comparo book. Everything you want to know about which intake is best for a given app. plus lots of other exhaust dyno, oiling, and compatability info.
In this case it's a no brainer though, the Holley SD is MUCH better than the factory "T" intake. The difference @5800 is almost 50hp.
You are pushing the limits of your 570? carb at those rpms though. A 600cfm autolite 4100 might do you a bit better. Still a stock piece.
If you're looking for a little more power you might consider an RV type cam with a smooth idle. No one will know if you keep it reasonable. The Lunati Voodoo lineup is pretty good at accomplishing this. Good idle quality for the lift and duration being that they use an asymmetrical cam lobe instead of the symmetrical lobe most others use.
In this case it's a no brainer though, the Holley SD is MUCH better than the factory "T" intake. The difference @5800 is almost 50hp.
You are pushing the limits of your 570? carb at those rpms though. A 600cfm autolite 4100 might do you a bit better. Still a stock piece.
If you're looking for a little more power you might consider an RV type cam with a smooth idle. No one will know if you keep it reasonable. The Lunati Voodoo lineup is pretty good at accomplishing this. Good idle quality for the lift and duration being that they use an asymmetrical cam lobe instead of the symmetrical lobe most others use.
#5
If you are winning the way it is, I wouldn't mess with it. In other words, it ain't broke, so don't try fixing it.....
The SD may not be the best intake for all purposes, but it seems to be working well for you. I suspect that it's a much better choice than a stocker, and the ~50 LBS weight difference also comes in handy...... Lifting it with one hand, or 2 men, the choice is yours. I know which route I'd choose.....
The SD may not be the best intake for all purposes, but it seems to be working well for you. I suspect that it's a much better choice than a stocker, and the ~50 LBS weight difference also comes in handy...... Lifting it with one hand, or 2 men, the choice is yours. I know which route I'd choose.....
#6
If you are winning the way it is, I wouldn't mess with it. In other words, it ain't broke, so don't try fixing it.....
The SD may not be the best intake for all purposes, but it seems to be working well for you. I suspect that it's a much better choice than a stocker, and the ~50 LBS weight difference also comes in handy...... Lifting it with one hand, or 2 men, the choice is yours. I know which route I'd choose.....
The SD may not be the best intake for all purposes, but it seems to be working well for you. I suspect that it's a much better choice than a stocker, and the ~50 LBS weight difference also comes in handy...... Lifting it with one hand, or 2 men, the choice is yours. I know which route I'd choose.....
#7
Good plan. Just for kicks, I'll add this though. I have a performer sitting about 5 feet behind me. It's going on once I get up the nerve to tackle that ~80LB stocker. It's only a 2bbl, which is why I'm willing to tackle it in the first place. Of course, I do plan to use an engine hoist to lift that monster off.......
The heads will also be pulled using a hoist, if they have to come off. I value my back.....
The "new" intake is sitting on the box holding the new headers. Thank god I don't have a wife. I doubt one of those would approve of having parts in the middle of the living room.
The heads will also be pulled using a hoist, if they have to come off. I value my back.....
The "new" intake is sitting on the box holding the new headers. Thank god I don't have a wife. I doubt one of those would approve of having parts in the middle of the living room.
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#8
I have thought of changing cam. But I've been running second for points all year and have a run on the leader. But can have a cam as long as it pulls 17 inches of vacuum and no more than 0.48 inch lift. But my truck is smoking the 460's, 454's, and 440's and I'm running the stock cam with .35 inch lift. They have tecked me in 4 times this year to see if I am cheating. Which I am not as I get more of a kick out of beating the cheaters by playin by the rules.
On another note, .350 lift is short of a stock cam. Maybe you were just guesstimating? I wasn't completely sure of the stock specs myself but a search turned up this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...cam-specs.html
check the link in post 7.
The .480 limit sucks. If it was just .005 more you would have a few more options and still be in the rules. As it stands, for future reference you could look at the
Crower #16238
Lunati # 06501
Compcams 252H
or you could call Ken at Oregon cams and have him custom grind one for you to just fit in the rules. If the other guys start to give you a run for, then I would say go the custom Oregon grind route and proceed to DOMINATE the class haha.
Way to represent the FE!
#9
I hear ya. If you're competing then I'd leave it for now. I prefer to do things by the rules as well, but in many cases it seems like everyone else is bending the rules a bit and the judges let it slide.
On another note, .350 lift is short of a stock cam. Maybe you were just guesstimating? I wasn't completely sure of the stock specs myself but a search turned up this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...cam-specs.html
check the link in post 7.
The .480 limit sucks. If it was just .005 more you would have a few more options and still be in the rules. As it stands, for future reference you could look at the
Crower #16238
Lunati # 06501
Compcams 252H
or you could call Ken at Oregon cams and have him custom grind one for you to just fit in the rules. If the other guys start to give you a run for, then I would say go the custom Oregon grind route and proceed to DOMINATE the class haha.
Way to represent the FE!
On another note, .350 lift is short of a stock cam. Maybe you were just guesstimating? I wasn't completely sure of the stock specs myself but a search turned up this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...cam-specs.html
check the link in post 7.
The .480 limit sucks. If it was just .005 more you would have a few more options and still be in the rules. As it stands, for future reference you could look at the
Crower #16238
Lunati # 06501
Compcams 252H
or you could call Ken at Oregon cams and have him custom grind one for you to just fit in the rules. If the other guys start to give you a run for, then I would say go the custom Oregon grind route and proceed to DOMINATE the class haha.
Way to represent the FE!
When I first started racing the announcer( big chev fan) made fun of my truck with a mustang motor and a 2 inch lift, 3.55 and 31 inch tires. But after I smoked a 454 with a 6 inch lift, 4.11gears and 37 inch tires that were to wide I gained his respect. And he always brags my truck up now.
When I heard say " truck with mustang motor" I called the truck Nightmare.
#10
A lot of Chevy guys don't even know what an FE is. lol At least he knew it was offered in mustangs. I guess a 428cj is just a little mustang motor too. The FE (SOHC 657hp) is the highest hp domestic engine ever offered, not to mention it's dominance at LeMans before the rule change limited cid. It should be talked about as a legend. We gets no respects, no respects I tells ya! lol
Reps for showing the crowd (and announcer) that the FE is still alive and winning!
Reps for showing the crowd (and announcer) that the FE is still alive and winning!
#11
#12
One suggestion I will toss out for when it comes time to freshen up the lower end. Swap the 390 pistons for 360 pistons. Worth about a 1.5 bump in the CR.
The best part is, they're *technically* stock 390 pistons, from you guessed it, a mustang......
If they wanna call it a "mustang motor", why not make it more like a real mustang engine with a CR in the 9's.......
More static CR = higher pressure before combustion = higher pressure after combustion. Bigger "bang", more power. It all works to make more power, even with a stock or near stock cam.
The best part is, they're *technically* stock 390 pistons, from you guessed it, a mustang......
If they wanna call it a "mustang motor", why not make it more like a real mustang engine with a CR in the 9's.......
More static CR = higher pressure before combustion = higher pressure after combustion. Bigger "bang", more power. It all works to make more power, even with a stock or near stock cam.
#13
I hear ya. If you're competing then I'd leave it for now. I prefer to do things by the rules as well, but in many cases it seems like everyone else is bending the rules a bit and the judges let it slide.
On another note, .350 lift is short of a stock cam. Maybe you were just guesstimating? I wasn't completely sure of the stock specs myself but a search turned up this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...cam-specs.html
check the link in post 7.
The .480 limit sucks. If it was just .005 more you would have a few more options and still be in the rules. As it stands, for future reference you could look at the
Crower #16238
Lunati # 06501
Compcams 252H
or you could call Ken at Oregon cams and have him custom grind one for you to just fit in the rules. If the other guys start to give you a run for, then I would say go the custom Oregon grind route and proceed to DOMINATE the class haha.
Way to represent the FE!
On another note, .350 lift is short of a stock cam. Maybe you were just guesstimating? I wasn't completely sure of the stock specs myself but a search turned up this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...cam-specs.html
check the link in post 7.
The .480 limit sucks. If it was just .005 more you would have a few more options and still be in the rules. As it stands, for future reference you could look at the
Crower #16238
Lunati # 06501
Compcams 252H
or you could call Ken at Oregon cams and have him custom grind one for you to just fit in the rules. If the other guys start to give you a run for, then I would say go the custom Oregon grind route and proceed to DOMINATE the class haha.
Way to represent the FE!
If I go over by 0.005 I can live with it.
I also found a lunati 10503 cam. It's a 3000 to 6000 rpm cam. But what would it take off from the line with a stock tc and no stall.
And what would a custom grind cost?
#14
The lunati 10503 is their version of the factory GT/CJ cam. A lot of people really like it that have mild street/strip cars. I'd say you'd need a tq converter to match your cams rpm range.
I'm not sure on exact pricing over at Oregon cams. Everybody always just says they're very reasonable and competitive. I know it was like 175 back in 2004. I haven't heard a complaint yet about them. The owner (Ken) is an FE guy too so he'll set you up right. I plan to use them on the next fe sitting in the garage.
I'm not sure on exact pricing over at Oregon cams. Everybody always just says they're very reasonable and competitive. I know it was like 175 back in 2004. I haven't heard a complaint yet about them. The owner (Ken) is an FE guy too so he'll set you up right. I plan to use them on the next fe sitting in the garage.
#15
One suggestion I will toss out for when it comes time to freshen up the lower end. Swap the 390 pistons for 360 pistons. Worth about a 1.5 bump in the CR.
The best part is, they're *technically* stock 390 pistons, from you guessed it, a mustang......
If they wanna call it a "mustang motor", why not make it more like a real mustang engine with a CR in the 9's.......
More static CR = higher pressure before combustion = higher pressure after combustion. Bigger "bang", more power. It all works to make more power, even with a stock or near stock cam.
The best part is, they're *technically* stock 390 pistons, from you guessed it, a mustang......
If they wanna call it a "mustang motor", why not make it more like a real mustang engine with a CR in the 9's.......
More static CR = higher pressure before combustion = higher pressure after combustion. Bigger "bang", more power. It all works to make more power, even with a stock or near stock cam.
Any of you actually used them and had them work