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Hey guys, it's been a while. So I picked up a short block from the salvage yard back in may. It looked like it was never abused. I took it to a local machine shop for a freshen up and the guy said he hasn't seen one of these 300's in a long time espcially in this good of shape. So I had him work his magic on it. He called me last month told me the block was ready and that he bored it .030 over, polished the crank and balanced it, installed new cam bearings, honed it and then hot tanked. It was only $265 for everything. im waiting for payday to get my pistons, rings and bearings then I will go pick my "new" engine up. I want to sand blast it and either powder coat or paint it so it will not rust again. I will take picks when I get it back and put it all together.
He also said "Next time this motor will need rebuilding, I will be long gone." Stating he would be dead before it needs machining again. The current motor in my truck has alot of broken rings and maybe bad pistons. It shakes real bad unless I put a little extra pressure on the throttle then I get more blow by than a fat chick with a bowl of beans... Still gets me to A & B no problem and has never broke down on me. You guys have a good one and be safe. Pics coming soon!
I am surprised he bored it without having the pistons in hand. All parts have tolerances, including pistons, their diameter varies. So it's a roll of the dice to bore the engine before you know the piston size. Yes you can order .030 pistons, but what will be their exact size? They will usually hone the block to get it zeroed in to the exact clearance they want between the bore and the piston.
When they build the engines on the assembly line, they usually "select fit" the pistons. They have a pile and they are marked and organized according to their size. Yes they are all "standard size" pistons, but ones that are a little bigger or a little smaller are grouped together and are installed in a block that is a little bigger or a little smaller.
Well im sure he did all of that. I hope. I will ask him exactly he has done to it. I don't know anything about that kind of stuff. I just work on them haha.
billt28, what does reconditioning the rods do? I mean I get the concept, but is it important? They look fine. Im just trying to learn more about this engine. He did mention something about matching up the pistons to the cylinders but I thought with a fresh bore and hone, I could just put the new ones in there after lining up the rings and a nice coat of oil.
Franklin2, I don't know if he matched them up yet. He did mention it and I will ask him all the specs. As far as I know, all he did was bore, hone, hot tank, cam bearings and got the piston set. I didn't give him the rods yet. What all should I ask him about when I see him next? All of your info so far is appreciated guys, thanks.
When I first got the block, I was just going to bore, hone, hot tank and put a new piston set in it. Then I thought I really need to replace the cam because the one that was in it had a few severely pitted lobes. So with a new cam, I would def need new cam bearings and lifters. That sucks, I just replaced all the lifters, pushrods and rockers in my current engine. Now that i've learned so much from alot of you guys on here, I really wish I would have waited to do all that work on my old motor. Now I have new lifters sitting on an unknown condition camshaft. I am still happy with with the outcome though. I got rid of that annoying tick-tick-tick-tick. Well im about to post pics of my work so far... Alot of pics coming guys.
I am still working on the engine. The last week my current engine is starting to show its age. Rings are shot ant there is one heck of a groove in cylinder #1. Wont stay running when cold and just started smoking worse than a locomotive. It is my transportatiom to work and am now in a rush to finish up this engine and get it in! I have had everything done to the block, bought new pistons, rings, cam, cam berrings, lifters, expansion plugs and rear main seal. I just need the complete gasket set, crankshaft set, water pump, melling hv oil pump and the pick up tube. Getting it all on Weds. I am taking pics and video in decent non potato quality. Will be on later tonight.
Make sure you get a steel timing set, not phenolic. Also make sure you have the head checked for cracks. The 300 head is known to crack with any overheating at the rear.
Make sure you get a steel timing set, not phenolic. Also make sure you have the head checked for cracks. The 300 head is known to crack with any overheating at the rear.
Thanks, I almost forgot about the gears. I have heard about the fiber gears so I planned on getting the heavy duty steel or aluminum. As far as the head goes it has never over heated since ive had it, but, I will have it checked.
A quick question that keeps escaping my mind. Anyone recomend using the original bolts (head, rod and main) or should I buy new? I am kind of iffy on the new but the old ones are pretty clean since I wire brushed them when I changed the valve seals...
If it were me I'd put new bolts in the motor just for the added level of security. I've reused head/main bolts before when cash was tight, but with a new engine I would not take the chance on it.
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