E150 AC not blowing at all
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E150 AC not blowing at all
My mother's 2000 E150 van isn't blowing any air out of the vents. It doesn't work on high. I can detect a small amount of air coming out of the defrost vents and the floor vents when it is on high. I just replaced the resistor after finding that it had melted and still no air. My mother said that the a/c would go on and off when she hit bumps.
Do you think maybe the fan isn't grounded so the resistor overheated and caused melting in the resistor plug?
The plug looks exactly like the one in the middle of this webpage. Same pin melting location also.
Ford Blower Motor Resistor Pigtail Replacement
I ran out of time to work on my moms van because I am in law school and live 2 hours away. Assuming ground, blower, and fuse are all good (I'm checking those friday), what else could be the problem?
Do you think maybe the fan isn't grounded so the resistor overheated and caused melting in the resistor plug?
The plug looks exactly like the one in the middle of this webpage. Same pin melting location also.
Ford Blower Motor Resistor Pigtail Replacement
I ran out of time to work on my moms van because I am in law school and live 2 hours away. Assuming ground, blower, and fuse are all good (I'm checking those friday), what else could be the problem?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,776
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From: Lorain County, Ohio
The burned resistor is a big clue. The root cause is usually the blower motor drawing too much current. (It's possible that it has failed completely now.) Not quite enough current to blow the fuse, but enough to cause connector terminals to get hot due to their slight resistance. As the heat goes up, so does the resistance. This causes more heat which eventually melts the connector body.
On trucks of this vintage, I've seen the blower switch, resistor and their corresponding connectors along with the blower motor connector ALL trashed by the heat generated by a failing blower motor.
Check all of those parts and replace them if they look like they've gotten hot. The connector terminals should be shiny. If they look dull or rusty, they have gotten hot due to excessive current/heat and lost their tension.
You can buy replacement pigtails to replace damaged connectors. They come with crimp terminals, but throw those away. Solder the splices and cover them with shrink tube.
That article sums it up well.
On trucks of this vintage, I've seen the blower switch, resistor and their corresponding connectors along with the blower motor connector ALL trashed by the heat generated by a failing blower motor.
Check all of those parts and replace them if they look like they've gotten hot. The connector terminals should be shiny. If they look dull or rusty, they have gotten hot due to excessive current/heat and lost their tension.
You can buy replacement pigtails to replace damaged connectors. They come with crimp terminals, but throw those away. Solder the splices and cover them with shrink tube.
That article sums it up well.
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The blower seems to be working, I can't pull it out and test it but the electricity is good, the connector is good, and I can feel it turn on. I'm going to replace it. I still cannot feel any air tho. Could it be so fried that it is running but no air is moving? Also, I tried to pull it out and visually inspect it, but I couldn't figure out how to get the squirrel cage off. I can't pull out the motor unless I disconnect the cage. How do you do that?
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Ok so I replaced the motor and it still doesn't blow! What the heck is left? Relay? Where the heck is the relay?
The fan blows cold air out of the defrost vents. The resistor and motor both work. Now what?
The fan blows cold air out of the defrost vents. The resistor and motor both work. Now what?
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