Paint Method Question
Paint Method Question
Good morning friends,
As some of you may recall, my ’56 F100 went to get completely disassembled and soda blasted last week. Today the process of blasting begins and I will have a few photos to post later if anyone is interested.
Looking ahead, I find myself spinning in a world of technical jargon with details I do not understand. Use the single stage or base coat / clear coat. Then that discussion turns into PPG vs. Dupont vs. Ditzler whatever…
All I would like is to have a very nice AND durable product on truck. Here is what I have researched to start with.
I would like the truck to be Golden Glow Yellow similar to what it was back in ’56 with the grill and step boards (possibly not 100% convinced yet and open to your suggestions, opinions and pictures – though I realize ultimately it is up to me) a Colonial White. A search on Paintref.com provides results of the following:
Golden Glow Yellow ....................M20J-531
Colonial White...........................M20J-523
Again, my painter is suggesting Single Stage. I’m leaning towards BC / CC. He is well versed in the application of both methods. I'm not interested in knowing which is easier and economical for the painter, but rather quality, durability et cetera...
What are the pros and cons of either method?
Which is stronger?
Which should last longer?
My head is spinning; I think I’ll go take photos of the blasting…
Paul
As some of you may recall, my ’56 F100 went to get completely disassembled and soda blasted last week. Today the process of blasting begins and I will have a few photos to post later if anyone is interested.
Looking ahead, I find myself spinning in a world of technical jargon with details I do not understand. Use the single stage or base coat / clear coat. Then that discussion turns into PPG vs. Dupont vs. Ditzler whatever…
All I would like is to have a very nice AND durable product on truck. Here is what I have researched to start with.
I would like the truck to be Golden Glow Yellow similar to what it was back in ’56 with the grill and step boards (possibly not 100% convinced yet and open to your suggestions, opinions and pictures – though I realize ultimately it is up to me) a Colonial White. A search on Paintref.com provides results of the following:
Golden Glow Yellow ....................M20J-531
Colonial White...........................M20J-523
Again, my painter is suggesting Single Stage. I’m leaning towards BC / CC. He is well versed in the application of both methods. I'm not interested in knowing which is easier and economical for the painter, but rather quality, durability et cetera...
What are the pros and cons of either method?
Which is stronger?
Which should last longer?
My head is spinning; I think I’ll go take photos of the blasting…
Paul
Ditzler is an old brand name that was owned by PPG, and about 25 years ago PPG dropped the Ditzler name and just used their own. It's the same stuff. PPG and Dupont are very comparable products, both good stuff.
Quality and durability of single stage urethane vs. BC/CC is going to be the same. The clear coat is the same urethane material as the single stage stuff, just without pigment. It does add a better layer of sun screening, though, and won't chaulk and fade over time as a single stage would. If you keep the truck clean, garaged and waxed, it won't be an issue either way, so even that is a non issue. The biggest benefit is with metallic colors, as they tend to lay out better and look nicer, longer.
Going the single stage route will save you time and money, since it's less time consuming to do and there's less material to buy. (remember, his time is your money) It will be just as durable. For solid colors, there's nothing wrong with it. If you want a little extra gloss, ask him about mixing the last color coat 50/50 with some clear.
Quality and durability of single stage urethane vs. BC/CC is going to be the same. The clear coat is the same urethane material as the single stage stuff, just without pigment. It does add a better layer of sun screening, though, and won't chaulk and fade over time as a single stage would. If you keep the truck clean, garaged and waxed, it won't be an issue either way, so even that is a non issue. The biggest benefit is with metallic colors, as they tend to lay out better and look nicer, longer.
Going the single stage route will save you time and money, since it's less time consuming to do and there's less material to buy. (remember, his time is your money) It will be just as durable. For solid colors, there's nothing wrong with it. If you want a little extra gloss, ask him about mixing the last color coat 50/50 with some clear.
BC/CC was developed to compensate for the sagging/clouding of the heavy metallics introduced in the 70's. When painting with the single stage metallic paints you could either get a smooth glossy finish or you could get a nice even dispersion of the metallics without the gloss. BC/CC solves this problem because the BC is applied without regard to how glossy the finish is...the clearcoat which is applied over it gives it the high gloss.
Both styles of paint are equally durable...the single stage catalyzed urethane enamels are essentially the same chemical makeup as the clearcoat only with pigments added. Both paints are extremely durable, assuming that you are using a quality brand. Each painter has his own preferences...let him shoot what he likes, if he is uncomfortable with a different brand of paint then your paint job will most likely suffer.
If you are going to go with a solid color then there is no real advantage to the BC/CC. If your painter likes the single stage then it's best to go with what he is most comfortable shooting.
That said...there are a couple of schools of thought for each style of paint when it comes to final appearance. The old school lacquer and acrylic enamel guys say that the BC/CC does not have the same depth of image as the single stage paint. The BC/CC guys like the depth and high gloss provided by the clearcoat and the fact that any oxidation that occurs over time only effects the clear topcoat which leaves the pigmented basecoat pristine and unfaded. A similar argument was made when CDs were first introduced...digital music was too harsh, only an LP could produce a true reproduction of the music. You'll have to decide what camp you are in.
I am not sure if that helps you with your decision or not. I use BC/CC almost exclusively now for various reasons...my rationale is from the standpoint of a painter not as a truck/car owner though. Take a look at cars/trucks that have been painted with both methods and see what you like best. Hopefully the shop that is going to paint your truck has some recent jobs that you can evaluate. All new cars are BC/CC so compare any new car with the single stage finish from you painter. Good luck...
Both styles of paint are equally durable...the single stage catalyzed urethane enamels are essentially the same chemical makeup as the clearcoat only with pigments added. Both paints are extremely durable, assuming that you are using a quality brand. Each painter has his own preferences...let him shoot what he likes, if he is uncomfortable with a different brand of paint then your paint job will most likely suffer.
If you are going to go with a solid color then there is no real advantage to the BC/CC. If your painter likes the single stage then it's best to go with what he is most comfortable shooting.
That said...there are a couple of schools of thought for each style of paint when it comes to final appearance. The old school lacquer and acrylic enamel guys say that the BC/CC does not have the same depth of image as the single stage paint. The BC/CC guys like the depth and high gloss provided by the clearcoat and the fact that any oxidation that occurs over time only effects the clear topcoat which leaves the pigmented basecoat pristine and unfaded. A similar argument was made when CDs were first introduced...digital music was too harsh, only an LP could produce a true reproduction of the music. You'll have to decide what camp you are in.
I am not sure if that helps you with your decision or not. I use BC/CC almost exclusively now for various reasons...my rationale is from the standpoint of a painter not as a truck/car owner though. Take a look at cars/trucks that have been painted with both methods and see what you like best. Hopefully the shop that is going to paint your truck has some recent jobs that you can evaluate. All new cars are BC/CC so compare any new car with the single stage finish from you painter. Good luck...
CharlieLed is right on the money......I'll just add that to me a single stage (solid color) paint looks more "factory original", if that is the look you are going for.
Also, use good quality paint and materials. Avoid the "economy line" stuff ....
Also, use good quality paint and materials. Avoid the "economy line" stuff ....
I tried but said I had to spread it around
lol
lol
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Back From Soda
Hello Friends,
I promissed I would take some photos of the process (as boring as this may be to some)... So here they are.
Soda blasting

Blasted

Prepped for etching

Etching

Hangin around etching

Horny Etching

Paul
I promissed I would take some photos of the process (as boring as this may be to some)... So here they are.
Soda blasting
Blasted
Prepped for etching
Etching
Hangin around etching
Horny Etching
Paul
I'm gonna have to agree with Moe, when is the boring part? I will also agree with the paint posts above. I sprayed the Falcon I did last year in Wimbledon White, single stage. I used Acrylic Urethane, per the instruction of the most reputable body/paint guy in Central Oregon. I went through TCP Global. They carry all the stuff, PPG, Dupont, House of Kolor, etc. Personally, I used their Restoration Shop line, which is their line of factory matched colors, specifically for restorations. After talking with one of their paint specialists, the house line of paint uses the exact same toners, bases, and such as the PPG, Dupont, etc., etc. so I was more at ease with a less expensive "house brand." The '54 I am doing now, is also single stage Acrylic Urethane. It is the factory Meadow Green. I wouldn't waste the time, or money putting clear over a solid, I do, however, put a few more coats of color on it though.
The condition of the sheet metal on your truck is amazing. If your were to sodablast or any kind of mediablast the cab I have it would look like it was in the process of being sectioned and possibly chopped,lol. You are one lucky man to have found such a solid truck.
The condition of the sheet metal on your truck is amazing. If your were to sodablast or any kind of mediablast the cab I have it would look like it was in the process of being sectioned and possibly chopped,lol. You are one lucky man to have found such a solid truck.
If I told you that it sat out in the desert under nature's elements for more than 20 plus years (at my parents) I would not be lying. I too was worried about the sheet metal prior to soda blasting it... but as you say, I'm lucky.
Paul
Hello friends,
Went to just about every body shop and paint store in town and even consulted with Jim's (James G Phillips - here on FTE) friend via the telephone and after loosing so much sleep and meals (no wait, I ate like crazy) many headaches and driving the missus crazy... I've opted for the single stage method with a quality paint product - PPG or Dupont depending on how far I have to drive to get it...
CharlieLed, 52Merc your input was invaluable! Thank you!!
Now, the frame sits back in the garage and I am contemplating (would like) to lower the rear at least 2 inches - no bags, no mono leafs et cetera...
I once read somewhere around FTE (I think) about a shackle kit and also about making the leafs go under the rear axle plus something about removing leafs.
I'm not certain if these methods are supposed to be combined or will just one or two of them work and of those methods, which is most efficient / beneficial? I would like the truck to be barely noticeably low.
The look I am trying to achieve is more of the not so much open space in between the top of the tire and the fender.
Should this have been a new topic?
Paul
Went to just about every body shop and paint store in town and even consulted with Jim's (James G Phillips - here on FTE) friend via the telephone and after loosing so much sleep and meals (no wait, I ate like crazy) many headaches and driving the missus crazy... I've opted for the single stage method with a quality paint product - PPG or Dupont depending on how far I have to drive to get it...
CharlieLed, 52Merc your input was invaluable! Thank you!!
Now, the frame sits back in the garage and I am contemplating (would like) to lower the rear at least 2 inches - no bags, no mono leafs et cetera...
I once read somewhere around FTE (I think) about a shackle kit and also about making the leafs go under the rear axle plus something about removing leafs.
I'm not certain if these methods are supposed to be combined or will just one or two of them work and of those methods, which is most efficient / beneficial? I would like the truck to be barely noticeably low.
The look I am trying to achieve is more of the not so much open space in between the top of the tire and the fender.
Should this have been a new topic?
Paul
Hey Paul,
If it helps your decision, I went with a single stage "house brand" from TCP Global (the Restoration Products Line). It is an acrylic urethane. The paint goes on pretty well and the gloss is outstanding. I plan to keep the truck in the barn when I'm not using it, but I expect that the acrylic urethane will hold up pretty well. If I thought that this truck was going to live outside in the sun for the rest of its life I would have leaned toward a polyurethane paint like Imron (Dupont), or JetGlow (US Paint I think). Those are three times the cost and are also single stage paints that have a resin that surfaces as the paint cures. They were developed for airplanes that sit outside and are designed to have a gloss finish for 10 years with outside storage. The polyurethanes are also highly toxic during the spray process & a high percentage people have a severe skin reaction, so most places require that the painters are fully suited up before mixing and spraying (that means gloves taped to a jumpsuit, a hood with an outside air source and tape from the jumpsuit to boot tops. Once the paint cures it is inert.
Here's a couple of pics of my cheap single stage "Rock Moss Green" parts:


Dan
If it helps your decision, I went with a single stage "house brand" from TCP Global (the Restoration Products Line). It is an acrylic urethane. The paint goes on pretty well and the gloss is outstanding. I plan to keep the truck in the barn when I'm not using it, but I expect that the acrylic urethane will hold up pretty well. If I thought that this truck was going to live outside in the sun for the rest of its life I would have leaned toward a polyurethane paint like Imron (Dupont), or JetGlow (US Paint I think). Those are three times the cost and are also single stage paints that have a resin that surfaces as the paint cures. They were developed for airplanes that sit outside and are designed to have a gloss finish for 10 years with outside storage. The polyurethanes are also highly toxic during the spray process & a high percentage people have a severe skin reaction, so most places require that the painters are fully suited up before mixing and spraying (that means gloves taped to a jumpsuit, a hood with an outside air source and tape from the jumpsuit to boot tops. Once the paint cures it is inert.
Here's a couple of pics of my cheap single stage "Rock Moss Green" parts:
Dan













