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At a loss, with stalling problem!

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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 07:41 PM
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At a loss, with stalling problem!

I have been chasing a stalling, loss of power problem for a few months now. Have two grey CPS's and tried both, brand new o-rings on the IPR, brand new scheaffers 5-40 synthetic oil, double checked the connection from my tuner to the computer. Stalls randomly, tonight after a fresh oil change, I went for a drive. Drove it hard to get it hot, truck started to feel down on power towards the end of the drive, CEL came on, pulled into driveway, and she promptly stalled. Kind of a tapering off kind of stall. Idle sounded funny prior to stall. Let it sit for 5 min, she will restart and then sometimes stall again. The longer it sits the longer it will run. Really seems related to heat. Sometimes it will drive fine, no symptoms, but pull into driveway and shut it off, it won't restart! Freakin' stumped, truck has thrown CEL, but I have no way of reading codes. Gotta have a truck I can trust, can't trust this one. Thanks for any help.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 08:54 PM
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Update, just installed a fuel pressure gauge, 50psi with key on engine off(won't start now at all). Also, tach does not budge when cranking over.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 09:02 PM
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Post up a thread and title it with your local area and see if there's a member nearby with AE. Or even a stealership with a good scanner could get them. Getting those codes read is vital. It could be a number of things causing your problem and it may be more then one shutting your truck down. For some reason I suspect a fuel or oil pressure problem and letting it sit allows time for pressure to build up. How have you been with maintenance? Have you changed the fuel filter recently? Intank mods? There's a fuel filter in the tank that can get massively clogged. The intank mods will remove that filter and place it outside of the tank so you can easily change it. How many miles on your truck? Any smoke out the exhaust when its dying? There's two wiring harnesses under the valve covers, one on each side, the fifty cent mod consists of getting under those valve covers, making sure the harnesses are plugged in securely, shimming them with two quarters shimmed down on one end. When you get it scanned and if it comes up with a p1316 then the .50 cent mods is the ticket unless a pin is burnt out, but far less likely. So like I said, it could be a number of things. The best of luck to you sir, and feel free to ask any questions. The more you can tell about your truck and its symptoms the easier this is to solve.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 09:07 PM
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Okay, I just read your update. Fuel pressure is good. Ford spec is 53 psi. Although as I've recently learned wot throttle fuel pressure is most important. Did you change the ipr o rings yourself? Can you check the oil level in the hpop? If its low or empty then this is the problem. No oil means no fuel and no starting. Was the check engine light on all the time when it ran? How are your batteries? If there lower then 10.5 volts and not turning over more then 500 rpms then the injectors won't fire anyway. I'm just throwing some stuff out there to give you something to go off if any of it helps.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 09:22 PM
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And one last thing, try unplugging your icp senser and starting your truck, a good sign of it being bad is oil in the connector, the o ring in the senser goes bad and shorts it out. If the truck starts, its fine to run it that way for a while but I would replace it as soon as possible. That's a good place to start before you tear into your truck. I'm looking up pictures right now that might help.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 09:26 PM
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Yea, did IPR myself. No check engine light, is rare actually. Occasionally shows it's face when truck loses power. Like maybe twice. Changed oil tonight, full. Batteries turn the engine over with lots of speed. Only a year old. Yea, gotta get it started to check wot fuel pressure!LOL. Doesn't a stationary tach usually indicate bad CPS? Could have two crappy cps's. Both are grey, one from parts store, other in truck when I bought it. Thanks for the reply. ICP is fine, no oil, unplugged, plugged no different. Started and ran fine for a little while after I changed o-rings, thought I had it figured out.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 08:48 AM
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No, my 02's tach is stationary till it starts, I think the later 's tach is stationary till it starts. Well you certainly have an interesting problem. I'll think about it, maybe somebody will chip in with some fresh ideas.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 09:53 AM
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UVCH harnesses?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 03:22 PM
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That's what I was thinking but he said the check engine light only came on rarely. If it was the harnesses wouldn't the light be on all the time?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 10:51 PM
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Would the UVCH's cause it to stall in a tapering off fashion, best way to describe it would be it dies "slowly"? Also, will be running fine, pull into driveway and shut it off, try to restart seconds later, nothing just cranks over. Thinking of trying a 3rd CPS from ford. Is the $25.00 one from ford decent?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 10:58 PM
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There is nothing wrong with the Ford CPS, most will not recommend any parts store CPS as there are all kind of issues with them. The "updated" CPS is intended to prevent flat out failure like with the "Black" original. Some have noticed failed CCT on #3 and 8 with the new version, but if you are not trying to diagnose an injector issue that is not much of a problem, and I actually passed CCT with the grey CPS.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by badhabit1
Yea, did IPR myself. No check engine light, is rare actually. Occasionally shows it's face when truck loses power. Like maybe twice. Changed oil tonight, full. Batteries turn the engine over with lots of speed. Only a year old. Yea, gotta get it started to check wot fuel pressure!LOL. Doesn't a stationary tach usually indicate bad CPS? Could have two crappy cps's. Both are grey, one from parts store, other in truck when I bought it. Thanks for the reply. ICP is fine, no oil, unplugged, plugged no different. Started and ran fine for a little while after I changed o-rings, thought I had it figured out.
The '02 as dothedew192 said will not move the tach like on previous models.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 04:44 PM
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Ok, started today, but cranked longer than usual. Started kinda like it stalls, you could here it catching and finally started, like a ramping up. Anyway, took it for a drive, ran good, same power a usual. Pulled in driveway and let it idle, well it has a very pronounced miss. Turn it off and it will restart, but definately has a miss. Fuel pressure would fall a little under 50 psi, maybe the high 40's under heavy throttle. Might tear into the UVCH this weekend for peace of mind, thinking about one of those International CPS's, too. Worn out injector/injectors? Wife is back from her trip, can't drive her car to work anymore!
 
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 05:21 PM
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Ok, this may require a little work, but you need to find out if the wiring going to the CPS may be flaking out on you....

This isn't easy to check, but It is possible that the connection has a failing wire/connection in it, and that subsequently it works sometimes, and not others.

If you do try to check the wiring, let me know and I'll try to give you the info you need to check it.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 05:24 PM
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UVCH is also a very good possibility.
 
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