Refrigerant Containment Switch
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From: Owosso, Michigan Usa
Refrigerant Containment Switch
Where exactly is the "Refrigerant Containment Switch" located? My compressor won't operate and I have already jumped the "cycling switch. Ocassionally I can get it to work and it cools fine. The schematic I have shows power goes through the cycling switch to the containment switch and then to the AC clutch and ground. I feel I have a problem with the containment switch opening. I have a set of gauges and the high side pressure is not abnormally high to cause the containment switch to open because of too much high side pressure!!!
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From: St Louis
Ford often calls it a "High Pressure Cutout Switch" or something similar. It is going to be physically located on the hard line between the compressor and the condenser and and is normally closed.
You need to identify your vehicle including the year. Ford changed the circuitry several times and you have to know how it works in order to properly diagnose it.
What are your static pressure readings?
You need to identify your vehicle including the year. Ford changed the circuitry several times and you have to know how it works in order to properly diagnose it.
What are your static pressure readings?
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From: Owosso, Michigan Usa
Thanks, it is 2001 F250, 7.3D
I found what you described. Tried jumping temporarily. Low side 20-30psi. High side abt 200. Normal to me. Intermittent cut out of compressor. Checked all connections and silicone greased them. Swapped cycling switch with known good one. Jumped switch you described. Still random cuts out. Voltage at clutch is 12.86, system volts at 14.2 batt. Will test further with voltmeter and test light when it acts up again if it does. Possible silicone repaired it??????? Thanks for reply.
I found what you described. Tried jumping temporarily. Low side 20-30psi. High side abt 200. Normal to me. Intermittent cut out of compressor. Checked all connections and silicone greased them. Swapped cycling switch with known good one. Jumped switch you described. Still random cuts out. Voltage at clutch is 12.86, system volts at 14.2 batt. Will test further with voltmeter and test light when it acts up again if it does. Possible silicone repaired it??????? Thanks for reply.
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From: St Louis
The series circuit of the cycling and containment switches does not directly control the clutch. That circuit goes to the PCM which then decides whether or not to energize the clutch via the clutch relay.
When operating, your pressures look pretty normal. Check your clutch air gap per the FAQs in the HVAC section and, if necessary, swap out the clutch relay. Both are easy.
When operating, your pressures look pretty normal. Check your clutch air gap per the FAQs in the HVAC section and, if necessary, swap out the clutch relay. Both are easy.
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From: Owosso, Michigan Usa
Correct me if I (or Mitchell on Demand ), are wrong. Per Mitchell on demand, my 2001 engine ECM does not control the AC clutch, however the ECM is fed a 12v signal that it is on and operating (possibly to increase idle). 2002 wiring diagram does show a AC relay and the AC clutch is totally controlled by the ECM. The 2001 schematic doesn't show an AC relay????? It shows 12v going from the AC control, to the cutoff switch, then to the High pressure or containment switch, and then to the Clutch. A tap off the clutch feed wire goes back to the ECM. Clutch ground is by the right battery. I do know that schematics CAN be wrong. Just makes troubleshooting that much harder if they are.
Fortunately I have access to the schematics if they are correct and that helps troubleshooting intermittent problems. I like to find problems at connections or relays, instead of running wires as some "shade tree" mechanics do. The problem almost always is at a connection or relay on old and new vehicles (new vehicles more so). Thanks for the reply. Sofar it has been staying on. Intermittent problems are a B#tch.
Fortunately I have access to the schematics if they are correct and that helps troubleshooting intermittent problems. I like to find problems at connections or relays, instead of running wires as some "shade tree" mechanics do. The problem almost always is at a connection or relay on old and new vehicles (new vehicles more so). Thanks for the reply. Sofar it has been staying on. Intermittent problems are a B#tch.
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Very cool information to hear. I was suspect of the Mitchell on Demand info. I will have to check it out like you say. It is not hard to fix I believe as long as I have the correct info. Do you know if the 2002 wiring is the same as 2001 as I have access to the wiring diagram for the 2002 also. This is why these Forums are so good. Members can discuss problems and find correct info. I am fairly good at electrical problems and diagnosis but need a good (correct) wiring schematic to help me troubleshoot. Thanks for the corrected info, and glad to hear that I am incorrect. I will check out the clutch relay as that is a pretty good suspect part.
I've always said---- "I once thought I made a mistake---- but I was wrong" LOL
I've always said---- "I once thought I made a mistake---- but I was wrong" LOL
Last edited by Dentom052; Jul 12, 2011 at 08:56 PM. Reason: addition of words
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From: St Louis
As near as I can tell, the circuit in the '02 is pretty close to the '01. Looks like a different fuse for the clutch coil.
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From: Northwest Florida
Trying not to hijack here, but I have what seems a similar problem. difference is, I had installed a cutout switch in line with the control ****. The switch has a light in it that tells me when the clutch ckt is getting power. The light has started flickering off and on sometimes, but mostly staying off. I'm thinking this may indicate the high pressure cutout sw is "sticking"???? Anybody have any other ideas for me to check out?? (Trucks not here at the moment, wife had to go shopping).
I'm 1500 miles from home, some help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm 1500 miles from home, some help would be greatly appreciated.
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From: Owosso, Michigan Usa
Bunklash, the high pressure switch is normally closed. It only opens if there is too much high side pressure. (probably on the order of 300+ psi). Fuse # 28 feeds power to the control switch assy. It also feeds power for the coil of the Blower motor relay. If fuse 28 is blown, you won't have blower operation and also the AC clutch won't kick on.
12 volts flows from fuse 28 to the AC control switch. When you call for AC, 12v goes through the control to the compressor cycling switch and the high pressure switch back to terminal 41 on the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM then commands the AC clutch relay to energize and supply 12v to the AC clutch. You would need to view a schematic to understand what I am saying I think.
12 volts flows from fuse 28 to the AC control switch. When you call for AC, 12v goes through the control to the compressor cycling switch and the high pressure switch back to terminal 41 on the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM then commands the AC clutch relay to energize and supply 12v to the AC clutch. You would need to view a schematic to understand what I am saying I think.
Last edited by Dentom052; Jul 16, 2011 at 06:54 PM. Reason: add information
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From: Owosso, Michigan Usa
Trying to troubleshoot the AC clutch relay and find it. Where is the "Auxiliary relay box #4" at? My info says "rear of engine compartment" That is where the AC relay is located. I was checking the box next to the left hood shock, but that is not the one.
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From: Northwest Florida
Thanks Dentom. I have seen a schematic, and your explanation helps. I'll see if I can find a link to post. In the meantime, here's a useful troubleshooting guide somebody else put together.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...xpedition.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...xpedition.html
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Northwest Florida
OMG! So sorry projectSHO! I paid no attention to the name! Reps will be sent.
I have some new info, and need some more help if possible. As before, power to the clutch ckt is very irratic. Turning the key on without the engine running, I could hear a relay chattering as the clutch closed and opened, then quit altogether. Can you tell me where the relays are? It sounded like the drivers side, but can't be certain. Mine is an '02 F350 PS.
I have some new info, and need some more help if possible. As before, power to the clutch ckt is very irratic. Turning the key on without the engine running, I could hear a relay chattering as the clutch closed and opened, then quit altogether. Can you tell me where the relays are? It sounded like the drivers side, but can't be certain. Mine is an '02 F350 PS.