1988 E350 Class C Tioga Motorhome 460 fuel sending unit
#1
1988 E350 Class C Tioga Motorhome 460 fuel sending unit
I am hoping somebody will have part numbers available. It is not the standard sending unit. It has a 3rd port for the generator, the pick up is shorter so it doesnt run your tank dry.
It is a single tank setup. Pretty sure its the 38 gallon tank. I have been searching high and low and having no luck.
Thanks
It is a single tank setup. Pretty sure its the 38 gallon tank. I have been searching high and low and having no luck.
Thanks
#2
I can't remember. Does that have a fuel pump on it?
I think it's a 36 gallon tank but I'm not sure that the sending units are available anymore. I used to have the number because I remember calling Ford and getting the price for it, but I can't find it either. I thought it was on TransferFlow's website as they used to have a 63 gallon tank replacement for the RV and it used the same sender but apparently TransferFlow does not make that tank anymore.
I would try and call your local Ford dealer parts dept. or better yet, go there and see if they can find the part number.
I think it's a 36 gallon tank but I'm not sure that the sending units are available anymore. I used to have the number because I remember calling Ford and getting the price for it, but I can't find it either. I thought it was on TransferFlow's website as they used to have a 63 gallon tank replacement for the RV and it used the same sender but apparently TransferFlow does not make that tank anymore.
I would try and call your local Ford dealer parts dept. or better yet, go there and see if they can find the part number.
#3
I have found some hope for ya. I just came across this place that if they don't have it, they might rebuild it.
http://tristarrradiator.com/
http://tristarrradiator.com/
#4
If it does have a fuel pump everything seems to indicate it is this:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...partnum=E2060S
From the pic it looks like there is a shorter tube on one of the feeds.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=293231
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...partnum=E2060S
From the pic it looks like there is a shorter tube on one of the feeds.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=293231
#5
no power to pump in tank
Okay I put in new fuel pump sending unit. Still not running. Appears as though the pump in the tank is not kicking on.
I can hear the pump on the rail running. It was hardwired from the guy who had before me. And I just replaced it last week.
So what could be my issue here? Is there a relay for the pump in the tank?
I checked the plug at the sending unit with an automotive light. I am only getting power to one pin and its pulsing. The fuel guage now works, so I assume that is what that is.
Now, why no power to the pump in tank?
I can hear the pump on the rail running. It was hardwired from the guy who had before me. And I just replaced it last week.
So what could be my issue here? Is there a relay for the pump in the tank?
I checked the plug at the sending unit with an automotive light. I am only getting power to one pin and its pulsing. The fuel guage now works, so I assume that is what that is.
Now, why no power to the pump in tank?
#7
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#8
Maybe this applies to my setup
Hi,
I have a 1987 Ford E350 7.5L 460 Winneabago (WF426rt) that the gas hand doesn't work on although it and the generator crank and run fine. I'm wondering if the above sending unit is the same as mine and will fix my problem?
I too have a one tank setup and my manual says 40 gallon gas tank.
Thanks!
I have a 1987 Ford E350 7.5L 460 Winneabago (WF426rt) that the gas hand doesn't work on although it and the generator crank and run fine. I'm wondering if the above sending unit is the same as mine and will fix my problem?
I too have a one tank setup and my manual says 40 gallon gas tank.
Thanks!
#9
#11
I dropped the gas tank, removed the sending unit and it indeed matches the above unit. I am going to replace the fuel pump, float (full of gas from hole), and strainer (laying in the bottom of the tank). I tested the unit and it reacts to the dash gauge so no need in replacing the whole thing.
Surprisingly to be 24+ year old gas tank...there was little to no rust in the bottom of this thing.. lucky..
Does anyone know where all the fuel line filters are located and if these came stock with a an inline high pressure pump as well? because there is a inline contraption about half way down that has wires and a ground to it that doesn't kick on when I turn the key...
Surprisingly to be 24+ year old gas tank...there was little to no rust in the bottom of this thing.. lucky..
Does anyone know where all the fuel line filters are located and if these came stock with a an inline high pressure pump as well? because there is a inline contraption about half way down that has wires and a ground to it that doesn't kick on when I turn the key...
#12
#13
The previous owner must have added this inline pump as mine is carbed. I replaced with the same pump (airtex e8012s) that was on there, luckily my local autozone had the exact one. It cranks quicker now and I think it may fix the loss of power problem I have when under load at higher speeds (55+) although I haven't tested this as of yet.
I recall changing the filter at the carb and this pump has a filter on the inlet side so I guess I'm good...
I'll reply when I do my interstate test over the weekend for reference.
p.s. mine only has 1 40 gallon tank in the rear behind the axel and it was PITA to get off..
I recall changing the filter at the carb and this pump has a filter on the inlet side so I guess I'm good...
I'll reply when I do my interstate test over the weekend for reference.
p.s. mine only has 1 40 gallon tank in the rear behind the axel and it was PITA to get off..
#14
#15
i use a 120v regular house switch to control my dual 12v pumps, i use this type of switch cause most auto 12v switches usually fail in time,,my pumps are wired direct from the battery so both pumps get 12v at flip of switch ,i bypass the fuel pump relay,you could also wire it to the relay/inertia switch if you wish,,,i just flip the switch and turn on igntion,,,i add a l.e.d light 12v guage only to the pumps positive+, so i dont forget to shut them off and the guage lets me know the voltage they are getting at all times, its my mod and i do it most of my old efi fords,no problems for years with this mod,,in your case test voltage wire for inside pump , they used a rubber foam type connector/hose to mount the inside pump to the sending unit, they usually swell and crack so your pump is left suckin air