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My truck is exempt from emssion testing, but all the emissions equipment must be installed. It doesn't have to be working, but must be in place. NC law.
This is why I prefer to use shorter belt rather than eliminator pulley.
I was hoping someone could tell me which belt size would accomadate this.
Thanks
Oh, Ok... I did not use the belt re-routing diagram. I thought with the shorter belt I would be able to use OE belt routing. let me look at that agian... thanks White Max.
Ok, with the new belt route (not using idler pulley) I will be required to remove smog pump pulley for clearance... which I'm not opposed to if this is my only option.
Is there a shorter belt length that I could use with original OE belt route? I'm thinking I only need another 2 - 3 inches shorter.
Thanks
Ok, with the new belt route (not using idler pulley) I will be required to remove smog pump pulley for clearance... which I'm not opposed to if this is my only option.
Is there a shorter belt length that I could use with original OE belt route? I'm thinking I only need another 2 - 3 inches shorter.
Thanks
Nope. Been there, tried that. With that FEAD arrangement, just skipping the smog pump doesn't work. The tensioner isn't able to tension the belt, so it flies off as soon as you put any rpm or load to it (turning the steering wheel, for instance).
I've tried this also. I ended up getting the eliminator pulley and used my stock belt. The $50 buck cost gives me great piece of mind. Truck runs flawlessly.
Same here. Why spend the $$ on an unneccessary pulley?
did a smaller belt any bypassed it, worked fine for a while then completely threw the bearings in the alternator and almost started a fire due to bypass angle of the belt (same routing found above on another users diagram), I’m putting a pully on to bypass it properly and returning to the original belt size and angle
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