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fuel filter housing options

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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 10:25 AM
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fuel filter housing options

On my 97 powerstroke, my fuel filter housing is corroded out. What is the best way to fix this? Can the housing be bought at a reasonable price?

Thanks
 
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 10:30 AM
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Some have JB welded the holes shut if it isn't too bad.
You can buy a new or used fuel bowl, or you can go to an aftermarket fuel filter if you wanted.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
Some have JB welded the holes shut if it isn't too bad.
You can buy a new or used fuel bowl, or you can go to an aftermarket fuel filter if you wanted.
I used JB weld and worked fine.
Also you can upgrade to an electric fuel system.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 11:58 AM
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yeah, mine was JB welded a few years ago. How much does an aftermarket filter setup cost?
 
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mark460
yeah, mine was JB welded a few years ago. How much does an aftermarket filter setup cost?
Depends on how elaborate you get, and if you go full electric or not. You can get just a filter base and a filter for around $50. I'll have around $600 I'm guessing into my electric fuel system.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
Depends on how elaborate you get, and if you go full electric or not. You can get just a filter base and a filter for around $50. I'll have around $600 I'm guessing into my electric fuel system.
did you go through jim at rosewood? I hear his stuff is great. And what all does a "full" electric fuel system consist of?
If you dont go full...what "partial" electric systems can you run?
 
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Awitte58
did you go through jim at rosewood? I hear his stuff is great. And what all does a "full" electric fuel system consist of?
If you dont go full...what "partial" electric systems can you run?
I ordered mine through Hypermax, their price was lower than anyone else.
A "full" electric fuel system would be:
Pump
Regulator
Filters (one pre-pump, one post-pump)
Fittings and hoses as needed
I'm not aware of any "partial" electric fuel setups, my comment was referring to the fact that you can retain the stock pump and just add a remote filter if you wanted to. Plumbing would be much more complex though.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 08:48 AM
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For now, I just cleaned it up and JB welded it again.

Question is, do I need to bleed the fuel system after putting the housing assy back in? I put it all the together and it ran for a little bit and then died and is acting as if air is in the system.

Thanks
Mark
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 09:13 AM
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Before I had E-fuel I woudl just refill the bowl with clean fuel like after a filter change and it was good to go.

The last few posts on this page Fuel Bowl questions - Page 2 - PowerStrokeArmy has some part numbers and prices for a bowl from RockAuto if you JB fix does not pan out. The price was not as crazy as the days of the 500 dollar part from ford.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 08:49 AM
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After putting getting the truck running right. Brief history, 97 F250 had been sitting a lot for a year, maybe only driven a little to move it. Finally took it for a 50 mile round trip, 25 miles out starting running bad like it was going to die out. Stopped couldn't start it, maybe switching tanks helped but got it started and drove it another 25 miles. Found out the fuel filter was very dirty, changed it got it running good, but noticed the fuel bowl was leaking, so this is when I JB welded it. After putting it together, barely could get it started, left is idling for a few minutes then it died and couldn't start. Recharged the battery, tried the next day and it started up and seemed to run good, left idling again and about 5 min. later died and wouldn't start. I'm new to powerstrokes, so what am I missing? Fuel pump going out? Still got air in the system? Can the front two lines get crossed on the fuel pump assy? Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by mark460
After putting getting the truck running right. Brief history, 97 F250 had been sitting a lot for a year, maybe only driven a little to move it. Finally took it for a 50 mile round trip, 25 miles out starting running bad like it was going to die out. Stopped couldn't start it, maybe switching tanks helped but got it started and drove it another 25 miles. Found out the fuel filter was very dirty, changed it got it running good, but noticed the fuel bowl was leaking, so this is when I JB welded it. After putting it together, barely could get it started, left is idling for a few minutes then it died and couldn't start. Recharged the battery, tried the next day and it started up and seemed to run good, left idling again and about 5 min. later died and wouldn't start. I'm new to powerstrokes, so what am I missing? Fuel pump going out? Still got air in the system? Can the front two lines get crossed on the fuel pump assy? Any help would be appreciated.
If the filter was very dirty, maybe the lines from the tanks or the selector valve are dirty (partially clogged) too or the umbrella in the tanks. I dont think that there are still air in the system and also I dont think you have a crossed lines on the fuel pump assy. have you checked the fuel pressure in the schrader valve?

 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 09:29 AM
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I'll check the fuel press next. A little google searching, I found the cranking fuel press at the schrader valve should be about 20 psi. Does this sound right?
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 10:42 AM
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If your fuel filter was dirty like that, chances are pretty good that the fuel pressure regulator screen is dirty too. its in a hole on the inside of the fuel filter canister on the drivers side. some people on here say a Q-tip will clean this. I have never tried it that way. when I cleaned mine i carefully unbolted the regulator from the housing and really cleaned the screen. this screen helps to remove air from the fuel by returning it to the tank. it cant do this if that screen is plugged.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 10:43 AM
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20 psi sounds kind of low. i have always heard 40 psi idle.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 10:48 AM
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I think 20psi is cranking it, and 40psi with it idling, assuming the pressure can be checked by cranking the engine if it doesn't start.
 
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