Common wires, but I dont think thats the problem since both injectors and coils arent firing. The coils have a common wire and the injectors have a common wire, but i dont think they all have the same. Report back when you replace the temp sensor

 

With the key in the ON position, check and see if there is power on each side of fuses 2, 18, 23 & 24 in the fuse box under the hood. Fuse 2 which is always HOT actually powers the ECM power relay contact, then the output of that relay powers fuses 18, 23, & 24. I think your issue lies within this area.

 

I change the temp sensor is the same. What's the next a step?
ALloro I checked the fuse all of them are fine.

 

Could you describe how you are checking for voltage on the CMP and CKP sensors?
Both of those sensors on the Navigator should be Variable Reluctor sensors and have only two wires each. The CMP sensor typically uses a fixed ground and the CKP sensor uses a floating ground.


The voltage you see is going to be dependent on which sensor your looking at, where your looking at it, if your using a DVOM with true RMS or a lab scope, and the test conditions (i.e, KOEO, KOER, cranking, etc.).
With a variable reluctor sensor the voltage reading isn't as significant as the frequency of the signal.

I didn't see much in the way of engine mileage or other work done, but
I would suggest another inexpensive SWAG: Throw a vacuum gauge on it and crank it over. If the vacuum is significantly low it may have jumped time.

 

Pdqford, at first I was checking the CKP and CMP with a test light but I was told that I would need a multimeter, so I bought it. I've been checking in ACV mode it showed .123v for CKP but according to ford it has to be between .5v to 1.0v when cranking the engine. The 5.4 32v navigator has 210349 miles.
What is the regular pressure for the vacuum so I can have an idea whether is low or not?
What do you mean by jumping time?
If it did jump time can it be fixed or does this mean a new engine?

 

Depends on how bad it jumped time if it did. If you're lucky, it just needs new timing chains and guides, if you're unlucky the valves might have hit the piston and damaged things. Then it depends on how bad that damage is, if it only damaged the heads or if it damaged the lower end as well.

Checking the vacuum, and if you see any issues there you can follow up with a compression test to confirm low compression, or better yet a leak down test to find out where the compression is leaking.

Not sure if you know how to read a vacuum gauge, but here's some pointers on that:

How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge

 

Okay I'll do this today. Any chance you know what is the normal engine compression? I looked online but they seem to have different compression for the engine.

 

Just follow those directions about the vacuum level, it should be around the same level. For a compression test, I'm not sure but just check if all cylinders has about the same compression. The only warning sign would be if you consistently get low or no compression across all cylinders, that would indicate jumped timing.

 

Wouldn't there be spark in the plugs even if the timing jumped?

 

I'm not sure, if it jumps time it may prevent the PCM from figuring out where the engine is at in the timing sequence and it won't be able to "sync up" the spark and injector pulses, and thus it wont fire them. I would suspect that it would throw a code in that case, but you can never know for sure without testing. It may be an electrical fault somewhere which prevents the spark and injectors from firing, either that there's a break in the connection between them and the PCM, though it will give codes if it sees open circuits to the injectors/coils. The other thing is that the PCM is not getting something it needs in order to allow the engine to start. This includes PATS detection of the key, not able to sync or read signals from cam and crank sensors, a high temp reading indicating a severely overheated engine and so on. What I suggest you do, get yourself a ODB scanner, either a more expensive one like the OBDLink MX which can do everything you need with FORScan, or a cheaper ELM327 scanner from china, which may require slight modifications to access the MS CAN network. Then you can do a Key On Engine Off self test and see if something comes up, and more importantly, record sensor signals while cranking the engine to see what is going on.

At any rate, it is also helpful to know if the engine actually has compression, which you can see with a vacuum gauge. If you see something weird on the vacuum gauge, you can move on to verify with a compression test. A vacuum test is far easier to perform.

 

I have been having issues with my expedition for about a yr and after lots of time and money to dealers telling me things that was wrong that was not, "I" decided to look closer and found issue myself, the vehicle would keep the truck from starting, the blinking red light in center of dash would blink 1000 mph, the Ford dealer put another computer in and long story short, I got a new key and FLASHED a few times only to help for a few months then do it again, then they said it was the battery?? well my truck turned engine over fine, I knew it was not batt, so I got to looking into things myself, after many RELAYS replaced and seen nothing abnormal about the relays themselves I got a flashlight and looked at the fuse panel and low and behold one burnt prong at the ECM relay(computer) power relay, I can pull it out in an angle or hold it cockeyed in the panel and get the blinking red light to go back to normal flashing, while holding the relay, then start the vehicle, I can drive it like that with the fuse panel cover on and as long as I do not shut it off, if shuts off just hold pressure against relay while turning the key over again to get the blinking red light back to normal (about a sec between blinks) then start, so I'm either going to replace the fuse panel or see if I can re wire it myself, I have been trying to find info on this issue for a LONG time and that is why I am posting this, Hope it helps, if you have questions just ask, I might have an answer, Dealerships have just taken my money and keep me coming back but never again!!!

 

Lesse now. Did you confirm you have a 2-wire CKP sensor?


Does your multimeter provide a true RMS (Route Mean Square) voltage reading or is it a peak-to-peak reading?


Was the sensor connected to the main harness and you back probed it or was it disconnected and you took your reading directly off the CKP sensor?


And which probe was connected to where?


With the positive lead on the CKP + positive pin read both the AC voltage and the DC voltage. Ford typically rides the AC voltage on top of a DC voltage for diagnostic purposes.


Does the check engine light turn off while you are cranking the engine?


I would think that cranking vacuum should be at least 15 inches. If it is way down in the single digits it is probably out of time. Like the chain may have jumped a tooth.

 

I have a 98 Expedition with a 5.4L Engine. I had to dismantle it to replace the upper and lower intake manifolds. I finally got everything back together, except for one day hose! I am trying for the life of me to figure out if it goes into the logical place that there is a hose connector without a hose, but it seems stupid. As they are both on the throttle body! Please excuse my lack of knowledge of words.



Here is the hose. It is connected on the left side (when looking straight on at the engine) of the throttle body.





This is the right side that has the connector jutting out without a hose. Being that it is the logical place I feel like a moron for forgetting, but I'd rather know before finishing putting everything together.

 

The hose in the top picture looks like a heater hose, while the nipple in the second picture looks like it's for vacuum. But it's hard to say since it's so close and we can't see much of what is around them.

 

Yes its has a 2wire CKP, my multi meter does have RMS. Yes the sensor was connected to the wire hardness and back probed it. Red was with grey and black with blue. The check engine does turn off.