When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1990 4X4 2.9 Ranger. I don't drive it much. The last time I drove it the front brakes would not disengage. I slowly made it home with the brakes smoking.
Over the weekend I decided to fix it. I opened the bleeder valves but the wheels still would barly turn. I took the front calipers apart. The boot and piston ring were great but the cylinder had some grease looking gack and a little rust inside. I cleaned them up buffed with fine sandpaper lubed with brake fluid and reasembled. I have flushed all the old black fluid out put new dot 3 in. The brake pedal is solid. I have tested the brake booster. It seems to be working properly. The front wheels do not lock any more but when braking pulls hard to the right. Drives straight. I just got back from a 15 mile drive the front rims and cylinder were warm but not hot. Why does my truck shoot to the right?
If it pulls to the right during braking it's because the right caliper is doing all the work. The left caliper is doing very little or no work. Piston could be stuck in the left caliper. May just need to get some rebuilt or new calipers. Rebuilding them yourself doesn't always work. Been there, done that!
Do the pistons ever swell?
When I first took it apart the drivers side looked to have gotten hotter than the passengers side. Could that have something to do with it?
I'd flush the system again with new Motorcraft PM-1 Dot-3 fluid, After putting the over heating problem right.
EDIT: Here is a short, easy to read, brake fluid tutorial, check out where we may be on the boiling point curve, if we haven't changed our brake fluid lately. I know where I am on the curve, as I flush mine on a regular basis & my records show the Ranger is due for another one & I use Motorcraft PM-1 Dot-3 fluid, as it's a high performance fluid, as a reasonable price. Why Change Brake Fluid
Last edited by pawpaw; Jun 30, 2011 at 09:32 AM.
Reason: Add brake fluid tutorial link
Yes the Phenolic pistons can swell. Rebuilt calipers for these are less then $20.00 apiece for this application. $25.00 a piece with steel pistons. I would get a pair and put them on. Just had to do this with one that had set for awhile.
Yes the Phenolic pistons can swell. Rebuilt calipers for these are less then $20.00 apiece for this application. $25.00 a piece with steel pistons. I would get a pair and put them on. Just had to do this with one that had set for awhile.
When I cleaned up the calipers I was able to reasemble them by lubing and wiggleing the pistons back and forth by hand. Is this any indication of wether a piston is swelled or not?
I'm sure I could fix this problem by replacing all of the following: calipers, rubber brake lines, pads, turn rotors, and replace the master cyclinder. But I'm not wanting to put more in this truck than it's worth. I'f I can I want to test before I replace.
When you reassembled the brakes, did you clean/polish the caliper pins and the surfaces they slide on and then lube them? If one of the calipers is hanging up, application or release of the brakes may resuly in uneven action and the vehicle pulling one way.
Last edited by michigan66; Jun 30, 2011 at 08:42 PM.
Reason: typo