HYDROBOOST CONVERSION 1990 F-250 to F-450 Upgrade
(Mods, please delete the other two threads from me of late on this subject)
The following work was performed on a 1990 F-250, 4x4, SuperCab, 460 Auto Air with stock vacuum brake booster. This is what "my" truck required to do the deed. In a nutshell, all the parts you are going to get are for a 1990 F-450.

NOTES;

1- The HB rod to brake pedal connection needed to be modified. "WE" simply SLOTTED the 4 existing HB holes in the firewall. SIMPLE, Done, makes it EASY to get that shaft dead nuts horizontal / square to the world. Other than this, everything else was plug and play. I have read where guys have drilled and welded and bought new pedals, NOT for me. Slotting the holes works bitchin...

2- I elected to replace my Master Cylinder Vs. hogging out the ears of the existing MC to match the new HB, ADDITIONALLY, if you mic the O.D. of the MC barrel at the rear of the MC AND mic the I.D. of the HB you get different measurements. It is so far off I personally would never do such a thing. A 16.5 tire will fit on a 16' rim too! AND PEOLE HAVE DONE IT, AND DIED. You do what you are good with. My wife will be driving this...

3- The below pics are self explainatory, yes the part numbers are all over the place, you will need to do conversions. The HB came from FORD and you should buy your HB from Ford because other places will sell it to you LESS 3 NECESSARY parts, those being the push rod, spring and retainer that is suppose to be part of the HB. Again, you get those parts buying it from Ford, Autozone SHORTS you these parts and gives you a nice little note inside the box telling you to salvage your old parts from your old HB, BUT HEY, were doing a conversion job here so NO EXISTING HB TO GET THE PARTS FROM! It cost me an extra $137.00 difference between the Ford NEW HB unit and the recon Autozone POS. SPEND THE DABLOONS MEN !

4- The retun hose is simply bulk trans hose and 2 hose clamps you will need to buy, and don't forget the Power Steering Fluid you will need.

5- The pressure hoses are AutoZone Duralast numbers.

6- The power steering pump w/ 2 inlets is an AutoZone number as well.

7- You will re-use your pumps plug/cap.

8- I elected to replace two front calipers and pads so I have not laid down any rubber yet, letting the brakes seat in a little before I get them hot, BUT-SOME-HOW-EVER, just placing my foot on the hard pedal makes the truck stop, I can feel the difference already. I will add notes here as and if necessary. I use my truck just for towing my camper so I will hook it up and see how it goes. Porportioning is not calc'd as OK yet. Maybe a video coming too laying down rubber! Muhahahaha

 

Currently I am less than thrilled, basically underwhelmed w/ the results.

Here are a few points.

The mechanic drove the truck after the HB system was installed and gave
it a good 50% increase in braking power, THEN we changed the calipers and pads and LOST braking power down to maybe 35% and it started pulling to the left. Crap pads are suspect. "I" was the one whom declined turning the rotors. Now were going to turn them to eliminate all posibilities of bad parts.

So were going to R&R the pads, turn the rotors and reassemble.

BUT-SOME-HOWEVER, we suspected the rubber brakes lines could be issue as well. I held on to just one of the rubber lines while the mechanic hit the brake pedal and there was a NOTICEABLE increase in outside diameter of the hose! So were going to replace the hoses as well.

Hopefully the above work will give the results I have heard other rave about.

Wednesday we do the deeds.

Anyone have any input on good hoses and pads?

 

So I'm guessing that you gave the new parts the right heat cycles to bed the pads. I've been thinking about this swap for my 1-ton. I'm looking forward to hearing your diagnoses and after action review.

 

I drove the truck for about 60 miles gradually using the brakes more and more, yes, I cycled them starting off easy. I was easy on them before I hit them hard.

I ordered up a set of brake lines from Classic Tube www.classictube.com
for a 1990 F-250 the number is;

SBH6118 1990-94 4WD - Front Disc/Rear Drum (3 Pc.) 109.10

It is a 3 piece set, two fronts, one rear. I asked the rating and he said something like 11,000 pounds, DOT approved.

Now I am trying to get educated on Pads... Ceramic perhaps? Money isn't a barrier, I want the best. Any suggestions?

 

try a set of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CA28GM

i put these on.they make me smile.

 

That is a great post! Thank you for the pictorial. I am planning on this upgrade for my 95 F350 since both the vacuum booster & master cylinder are still the originals at 440,000 miles so it is either replace or upgrade.

dn.

 

FORDF250HDXLT although I have suggested perhaps not good results I am SURE I will have good results when done. Turning rotors and adding GOOD pads PLUS don't forget the EXPANDING HOSES issue. See the above post.

You don't have to change the power steering pump FORDF250HDXLT. You could TEE into the return line, w/ the proper line run into the "Run" of the TEE and not the "Branch" of the TEE. Alternately I believe you can replace your resivoir only! I believe that to be part #E5LY-3A697-A "I" replaced my pump because;

A-It had almost 90K miles on it.

B- I want it as "Right" as right can get and the return lines plumbed as it
was designed to be OE is engineering clean and hard to beat. The
money saved is chump change one should NOT try to save IMO.

C- The hydrolics / fluid friction loss of cutting in a TEE is of concern
IMO as well. You can buy the ENTIRE HB Fluid engine compartment
system and BOLT IT IN ( less notching the firewall ) so why not just
get the whole shootin' match? Myself? Well my wife will be driving this
so....I am not going to cut ANY corners.

D- The OE pump had one inlet sized for JUST the power steering pump, the new f450 pump has TWO return inlets seperate. It is the RIGHT way to do it. A TEE in the line is nothing I would do when I know there is a better way for just a few bucks more. I understand volumn and pressure a little so friction loss is to be expected, IMO, if you use a TEE, PLUS it is NOT sized right for the two units! Using a TEE WILL RESTRICT FLUID FLOW as well as add FRICTION LOSS to the returning fluid. IMO.


...and yes coalroller, all these parts are f450 parts...
See paragraph 1 in my first post.

 

Thanks for the description. I'm in the midst of this conversion as well (I have all the parts... now for the work!) and was still a bit unsure about the push rod/spring/retainer.

I ordered my booster from RockAuto but ordered the Motorcraft version, which was pricier but still better than the dealer here. It has the push rod already in it as per the picture you posted, so I believe its OK.

 

will this year f450 work on an 88 ? or do i have to find 88 f450 parts ?

 

i also have ssbc drilled an slotted rotors an ebc pads for the front, wish i could find 4 piston calipers. I have most of the front end parts an springs. When i acquire everything, i'm gonna rip my front end apart an change everything in 1 shot.

 

88dually I just do not know...I did a LOT of reading and quizzed people and the stealer before I pulled the trigger.

 

ok, thx for ur answer

 

what did your price tag wind up being?

 

Did you include a cooler for the PS fluid? Could your fluid be getting hot?

 

I know i'm reviving an old thread, but i think its worth it.

Autozone now also has a HB with the rod and spring in it. From a brand i never heard of before.

Power Brake/Brake Power Booster, Part Number: 70043


Brake Power Booster | AutoZone.com


http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174856


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