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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

AC TIME

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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 02:08 PM
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RAY1986F150
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AC TIME

Its time to get the AC going. I have factory AC. I have everything to get it going other than a new reciever dryer. Does anyone know where to get a new factory ac receiver dryer? All the parts stores have dealer installed dryers.

Gary, do you have any dvd's or how to books on charging ac? I have gauges, but no vacuum pump. I need to study up on how to do this properly, so if you have any literature that would help. Anybody else have any study material? Experience? Know how? Thanks
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 02:38 PM
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I've done it a time or 200...... BTW, Didn't I point out your truck had already been converted to R134a a couple nights back? I think a certain parts truck also had the R134a fittings......
Don't have guages or a vacuum pump handy, though. I've got a video cd/dvd somewhere, just not sure where right now.

As for the reciever/drier, might have to look a bit outside the chain stores to locate it.

But, you're so right. A/C is in much desireable status right now, which 'splains why I was driving the little truck the other day. The F150 (and the F100 & RX7) all have functional A/C, but the fuel cost is a *bit* higher to drive them (well, not the RX7) compared to the little one.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 04:02 PM
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RW, would you mind helping out with getting the ac going? Come to think of it, I might have r12 gauges...i can't remember which they were. Anyways, if I locate a pump and get the dryer and freon do you know the process in which it takes to get it running well? Since you have done ~200 of them I would say so...

Yes it does have r134a fittings
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 04:56 PM
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People say good things in the reviews about the Harbor Freight venturi vacuum pump. It's cheap, but it takes a lot of air to run it. They also have the r134a gauges. As much as you will be using them, they will probably be ok.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 06:02 PM
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You could get one through Ford recently, try there.

Reciever Drier/Accumulator, Factory A/C: Ford #: E3TZ-19C836-B : Motorcraft #: YF-1119

I would recommend that you finish fixing the computer system, unless you have already done so before starting another project.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 09:14 AM
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Never fear, I have gauges. Just not the vacuum pump yet. But, Ray, you haven't yet paid the $0.25 to get the full tour, so didn't see the 30 CFM compressor in the utility room. May be enough for the HF unit. However, I will get my Dad's from my brother soon.

And, "a certain parts truck" does have a drier. The lines have been crimped shut, so don't know if it is good, and I'm not sure how much "freon" I'd be willing to gamble with to use it.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 10:08 AM
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Ray take a look see at this:
A/C Accumulator/Receiver Drier - 1984 Ford F-250 | O'Reilly Auto Parts
 
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 12:59 PM
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You can take the ford or motorcraft part numbers to any parts store and they can cross reference the numbers and see if they match anything in their stock.

Ford and motorcraft parts are of higher quality usually than the chinese parts you can get cheaper. You get what you pay for.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 02:47 PM
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Ed Olson our sponsor www.partsguyed.com can apparently sell it for $71.

Green Sales Co www.greensalescompany.com (800) 543-4959 has three of them.

Parts International Farmersbranch Ford FARMERS BRANCH, TX 75234 972-241-8730 http://www.partsinternational.com/ has ONE.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 03:10 PM
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Been a couple days since Ive had time to get on FTE. Thanks for all your help. I looked at Oriellys before and didn't see one, I must have messed up the search or something.

Okay, the receiver/accumulator is just to remove moisture built up in the ac system, right? How does this work? Does it use a desiccant filter? If so, I imagine if it is left open too long all the desiccant becomes saturated with moisture and no longer functions, right?

I think $28 for the Murray brand versus the $98 for the Motorcraft @ Orielly's is worth the gamble.

Gary, let me know when you get that pump, I will be ready to get it charged, I am sweating my butt off with black interior in upper 90's degree weather. I'll grab the accumulator, freon, some o-rings, and a can of that oil stuff for ac systems.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 03:14 PM
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Ray - Won't be for at least a week, one that's expected to be HOT! Have to get it when we go see Dad, maybe later in the week.

And, you are right on the dryer. However, some say it is possible to boil off the moisture by leaving the vacuum on the system for 24 hrs or so. Me, I'd pop for the cheap one so I don't waste the gas.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 03:27 PM
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I will grab it this week, I might be able to get my co-worker to get her dad's vacuum pump to me earlier. If that's the case maybe I can bring it over and we can use your gauges. Does anybody know how many ounces of freon, and ounces of oil the factory ac system takes?
 
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 03:37 PM
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One more thing guys...should I inspect the compressor somehow? Is there any procedure I can take to ensure the compressor and clutch are in good shape? The guy I bought the truck from said he had charged the ac system two summers ago and the compressor worked, but the freon bled out over the summer and by the end of the summer it wasn't working. When we get the system sealed up do we pull and hold a vacuum on the system to see if it leaks out? Any pro's advice would be awesome! Ive only tinkered with ac systems before.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 10:43 PM
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If the compressor has a lot of dirt stuck to it around the front, that's a sign that oil has been leaking out around the front seal, and so that means the front seal is leaking freon. Also check the gap on the clutch. It should be around .014 to .030 gap. You check it with feeler gauges. If it's too wide, you will find the cooling to come and go as the clutch has a hard time engaging with a wide gap.

I always get the r134a that has the oil already in the can. It usually comes with the ester oil which is made for these retro-fits. If you use any other kind of oil, you have to flush the system and get all the old r12 type oil out of it. With the ester oil already in the r134a freon, the old r12 oil just lays in the system and doesn't cause any harm.

Once you get enough r134a in the system, you automatically have enough oil in the system also with the combo cans. Just make sure you shake the can around to so the oil leaves the can when charging.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 12:03 AM
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If any of you can post a pic of your engine bay/ AC setup, that would help me out big time!
 
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