I've done some big $10k sound systems "back in the day", but I'm keeping this one pretty simple and non-intrusive.

I got a Metra dash kit, but didn't like the fit. The Scosche dash kit was better, but still not perfect. O well.
I used a Scosche wiring harness adapter too. This 2010 van uses the newer style harnesses that are harder to find. Go to a stereo shop, not Walmart, etc.
There are two harnesses in the dash, but I only needed to connect to the bigger harness for the power and speaker wire connections. I'm guessing that the smaller factory harness is for the OEM Navigation radio and camera option?









Camera on the left, Navigation on the right.


I replaced all the stock 6x8 speakers with JL Audio C5 6.5" components. To make the round speakers fit in the oval holes I made some rough adapter plates from plastic kitchen cutting boards. They won't deteriorate like wood will. Usually, I would add some sound deadening material to the doors, but I'm kinda lazy lately.





I built this small enclosure. There's not much room, but luckily this sub only needs a .3 cu ft enclosure. This Alpine SWR-843D sub sounds amazing for its size. Its one of the best 8" subs I've ever heard.


JL Audio XD 300/1 Amp barely fits. Its screwed to the back of the sub enclosure.


I'm happy with how it all turned out.

 

Lookin' pretty good Mr Silver---nice use of available space I'd have to say.

The rear view camera is in a nice location----not noticable to the casual eye either. Just love the speaker adapters but curious what the wired device is showing just aft of the interior door handle on your Rt Frt door photo?

You already know adding sound deadening material is well worth the effort, especially after you've gone to all this trouble. I stuffed as much insulation all through my E250 cargo van for a cheap Sony 4 x 17 watt system and it makes a world of difference all around.

Again very nice job and functional too!!

 

That's an outboard crossover. It controls the cutoff frequency for the mid and the tweeter.

 

Ya know Mr Silver I'm quite intrigued by the JL Audio C5's---a few questions if you don't mind?

-Where did you buy yours, approximate cost? I'm finding them various places, supposedly new, unused from $250 to $500. Internet sellers naturally......

-What wattage two-channel amp would be best to drive them? As mentioned I have a puny Sony 4 x 17 watt CD Receiver that seems more input from an MP3 player than CD's these days.

Appreciate your advice in advance!

 

This place is an authorized dealer plus they do price matching.
JL*Audio*::*Brands*::*Home

If I were you I'd get a cheap 4 channel amp like the JL Audio JX360. You could use 2 channels for your doors and later you could use the remaining 2 channels bridged to a subwoofer.

 

Hey Killer----I'm really getting jazzed (no pun intended) about this JL Audio stuff---seems quite top notch audio-wise, a certain jump upwards over my Polk Audio 5x7's now installed.

What's the advantage of the JL C5 650's over the C5570's? Do the round speakers sound better than the oval versions?

 

The C5570 are good. It'd be easier. No adapters to make. Should sound about the same as the 6.5"s.

 

I have an old Rockford Fosgate RFR1415 in a custom built ported box in the rear of mine, with 2 Rockford Fosgate HE2 12's in their own custom ported box and I about swear the 15 hits harder than both 12's, the factory insulation in these vans is pretty tight on it's own. If you like it loud, and listen to bass beware the screws that secure the glass in the back doors, they will shake loose and pop out, and they're special, have a taper with a thick gasket, sold on packs of 8, nuts are separate, cost you $40 8 years ago. I've listened to all, I really liked the Kicker 6" due to it's ability to cover a variety of sound, most seem to sound like mono bass, or extreme high, no real full range, but I did but some Pioneer components because I couldn't pass a $140 set marked down to $35 for being old stock. Be careful with 4 channel amps and factory wiring, vans have 6 speakers, the fronts are separate, but some how the mid and rear tie together, which will either half or double the speakers ohm depending how they're tied together, many 4 channel amps won't accept 2ohm loads.
I plan on shifting a lot over to my 73 E-100 and doing a discrete custom sound system in it, but have a lot of bass for when I want it, just not sure if I want to put my 2 12's in it, or build in 4 10's in the rear under the bed and sell my 15 to someone who can appreciate it for what it is.

 

Hey killer, dumb question. I'm trying to put a backup camera in my E450 (2010 model year) motorhome. I can't seem to get the front faceplate of the IP out of the way. It gets caught up with the shifter and the hood for the gages... I'm worried if I force it that something will crack... you obviously got it apart, so, I was wondering if you could give me some tips on how to get it apart and back together...

Thanks...

 

Yeah, I know what you mean. It will bend a lot without breaking, but be careful not to scratch up the edge of the top of the dash. Put the shifter down into 1st gear. Unbolt the white A/C control unit from the back. Take the plastic cover off of the steering wheel column. It has 2 halves. I think it has 3 or 4 screws underneath. You will also need to remove the ignition cylinder. This is easier than it sounds. Put the key in the ignition. You should see a hole under the ignition. Stick a thin screw driver or allen key up in the hole underneath, then the whole ignition cylinder will pop out. Then you can take the top half of the steering wheel column cover off. Then it will be easier to remove the front dash panel.

 

Thanks for the tip. I also pulled the cupholders out of the way to rotate the dash down. Now comes the fun part...