Hey yall. I have some good news and some small catastrophes.

I got the carb installed and the truck started! Hooray =). It was idling very, very slowly. I noticed that I had about 5 uncapped vacuum lines/plugs that were just open to the air. I made some caps out of one of the old hoses I took off until I can buy some proper ones. That helped the idle out tremendously and then I was able to adjust the idle screw very slightly to bring it up to where it didn't sound like it was going to die at any moment.

I ran a new line to the vac adv on the dizzy but I'm not exactly sure how to test it. I didn't want to push it very hard without some tools to monitor it (tach, vacuum gauge and timing light get here on wednesday), but I was happy that it started and ran. I was even able to put it in gear and pull it up the driveway a little bit.

Now for the catastrophe. The electric choke wire was part of the old wiring harness. It came out when I took out the big bundle of wires. I know I need to run 7v from the alternator but can someone go into a little more depth on that process? I looked for the alternator but I didn't really see any prongs coming off the back. What am I looking for exactly?

Second catastrophe. When I was unscrewing the old climatic choke, it.. broke =(. The tube running down to the manifold just disconnected and broke off somewhere down under there. I pulled it out and it was all kinked up and rusted and so brittle that I could crumble it with my hands. I tried to see but I couldn't tell where exactly it broke off. There's no way I can see down under there from above or below the engine. What do I do in this scenario?

 

Look for the plug on the ALT with 2 large wires and one small one (STA), the small white wire feeds the elect choke.
It is common for the hot air tube to be rusted off and it will take longer to fully open the choke with electric only. Plug the hole, brass fitting, as it will try to draw/suck air into the carb.
Jim

 

Woot! Awesome, thank you. I will do this tomorrow.

 

Here is another pix with the STA wire in the far right of the photo. The cut wire on the end was where it split and also went to the RED EEC test connector. The other end of the split connects to the elect choke.
Jim

 

Muidem-If you DON'T have a Chiltons, might I suggest you picking one up...$24 of the best advice out there...And it has PLENTY of pics for reference, and a lot of illustrations/explanations.....

That'll help you be able to identify the parts of your truck farrrr more easily, and know the proper name for them...

Also, has troubleshooting, chassis/engine wiring (All with color codes, what they go to, etc...And I can see it being pricelessly beneficial to you as of now)....Even how to rebuild a engine if need be....

All the info a beginner such as yourself crucially needs...

Just a thought...

-Wes

P.S-You're comin' along GREAT....I like the fact you ASK questions...And not simply shove it into a shop....Keep it up man...

 

[quote=SideWinder4.9l;10507161]Muidem-If you DON'T have a Chiltons, might I suggest you picking one up...$24 of the best advice out there...And it has PLENTY of pics for reference, and a lot of illustrations/explanations.....

That'll help you be able to identify the parts of your truck farrrr more easily, and know the proper name for them...

Also, has troubleshooting, chassis/engine wiring (All with color codes, what they go to, etc...And I can see it being pricelessly beneficial to you as of now)....Even how to rebuild a engine if need be....

All the info a beginner such as yourself crucially needs...


Just a thought...

-Wes

P.S-You're comin' along GREAT....I like the fact you ASK questions...And not simply shove it into a shop....Keep it up man...[/quote
Generally is Chiltons better than Haynes? It seems most auto parts stores and Amazon ect. have a much larger selections of Haynes than Chiltons
David

 

Ask anyone on here...Chiltons manuals are a bit better....Same price...I keep mine in the truck...

 

Thank you!

 

Welcome....Seems the Haynes manuals....Are..Lacking....lol

Now back to your regular programming....

 

I have the same carburetor as Muidem. All this has helped me also. Thanks guys! However, I am trying to put a different air cleaner on it. I can't find an adaptor (5 1/8" to 2 5/8") that will clear the electric choke. Any ideas on what to do with that or what has everyone else done? The OEM air cleaner is useless.

 

Have you tried Advance Auto, etc?

I had to look around a little to get one to fit over my Motorcraft 2150/And the Holley on my 351w.....

You may just have to go bigger...

 

Also I have a question about the choke. Can I just leave it unplugged and adjust it until it is fully open. I was reading that an improper adjust choke can lead to problem with the accelerator pump. That was just for generic carbs.

 

In the summer time you can just wire it full open, not sure how well it will start in the cool mornings.
Jim

 

Why not take some time, and fully adjust the choke, the right way, and no have to go back?

 

I do not have a plug for the choke.