1999 Windstar Check Engine Light
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1999 Windstar Check Engine Light
I have a 1999 Ford Windstar Van (as my husband graciously refers to as my "grocery gitter". The check engine light keeps coming on. No, I have NOT run out of gas. My husband does most of the work on my van as living in Washington State, the price for dealership repair is out of this world! Anyway, he replaced the 02 sensor(s) but we cannot figure out how to reset the computer. Any ideas? I want to show him how smart I am so please keep my question a secret! Thanks very much!
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1999 Windstar Check Engine Light
What type of scanner do I need?
Can't I just unhook the battery? What codes are you referring to? Thanks for your help!
Can't I just unhook the battery? What codes are you referring to? Thanks for your help!
Last edited by Bpanter; Mar 27, 2003 at 06:23 PM.
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From: Vancouver WA
1999 Windstar Check Engine Light
The scanners for the OBDII systems like the one in your van are fairly expensive. Many auto parts stores will hook up a scanner and test it for free. The computer will provide a code (or codes) that will help to identify what is causing the check engine light to come on. There are many, many things that can cause it to come on besides the O2 sensors. They can also clear the trouble in case the problem was the O2 sensor, and the light just hasn't cleared.
Where at in Washington?
Where at in Washington?
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From: Vancouver WA
1999 Windstar Check Engine Light
Nice area. Was just up there a couple months ago for my brother-in-law's retirement ceremony from the Navy.
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I've done shopping for shops to check my 99 Windstars light to see why it stays on. Buggers want $100 or so. Ugh. Good advice about the auto parts stores. I'll try that. Great advice mrwizard!
Thanks
Thanks
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BPANTER, take heart. If your husband just changed the O2 sensor without pulling the codes, he might not have fixed the correct problem. Meaning at this point you know more than he does. I have had luck with auto parts places pulling the codes for free. The good news is that OBD2 will give more detailed information than earlier on board diagnostics. The bad news is old $30 readers won't work. Readers for new systems cost around $200-$300 but can pay for themselves if you fix 1 troublesome problem. You might want to consider getting your husband one as a gift.
BTW low gas won't cause a check engine light. Leaving a gas cap loose can.
BTW low gas won't cause a check engine light. Leaving a gas cap loose can.
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From: Alvin, Texas.
Yeah, check the codes and let your hubby in on our site even if the only Ford in the garage is the Windsock.
As for pullng the battery cables, well, that does the job of clearing codes too well, especially IF the problem hasn't been rectified.
When you pull the cables, you also reset the EEC (emissions controls) system. So, your code may take forever to come back for diagnosis purposes and then comes up out of nowhere.
Plainly, either use a scanner or my seemingly unknown method: Pull the ECU/ECM fuse in the underhood relay box, wait a few mintues and put it back.
As for pullng the battery cables, well, that does the job of clearing codes too well, especially IF the problem hasn't been rectified.
When you pull the cables, you also reset the EEC (emissions controls) system. So, your code may take forever to come back for diagnosis purposes and then comes up out of nowhere.
Plainly, either use a scanner or my seemingly unknown method: Pull the ECU/ECM fuse in the underhood relay box, wait a few mintues and put it back.
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Originally Posted by AlfredB1979
As for pullng the battery cables, well, that does the job of clearing codes too well, especially IF the problem hasn't been rectified.
When you pull the cables, you also reset the EEC (emissions controls) system. So, your code may take forever to come back for diagnosis purposes and then comes up out of nowhere.
Plainly, either use a scanner or my seemingly unknown method: Pull the ECU/ECM fuse in the underhood relay box, wait a few mintues and put it back.
When you pull the cables, you also reset the EEC (emissions controls) system. So, your code may take forever to come back for diagnosis purposes and then comes up out of nowhere.
Plainly, either use a scanner or my seemingly unknown method: Pull the ECU/ECM fuse in the underhood relay box, wait a few mintues and put it back.
If the O2 sensors were the problem the Check Engine light would go off on it's own once the computer saw that the new sensors were working.
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You need to get the codes read (free) at Autozone or Advance Auto.
I'll wager they will pull codes P0171 and/or P0173 and/or p0174.
If so, you have a vaccuum leak in the lower plenum of the air intake. It is the lower portion of plastic unit that you see when you open the hood. The seals that keep the engine's vaccum are bad and they need to be replaced. The Ford parts dealer has a neat little box for sale that has all the needed parts in it for a little over a hundred bucks. It takes some reading from a Chilton's or Haynes manual but it is a do-able backyard/home garage repair.
If not, have them erase the codes and wait and hope that they don't show again
I'll wager they will pull codes P0171 and/or P0173 and/or p0174.
If so, you have a vaccuum leak in the lower plenum of the air intake. It is the lower portion of plastic unit that you see when you open the hood. The seals that keep the engine's vaccum are bad and they need to be replaced. The Ford parts dealer has a neat little box for sale that has all the needed parts in it for a little over a hundred bucks. It takes some reading from a Chilton's or Haynes manual but it is a do-able backyard/home garage repair.
If not, have them erase the codes and wait and hope that they don't show again