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So I think all the great posts about suspensions have given me a bit of overload...between V codes, Hellwig, spring helpers and all the rest, I know just enough to know I don't know what I should do.
Here is the truck:
2000 Excursion V10 4x4, 94,xxx miles
I think the front springs are tired, only an inch and a half or so from the bump stops, and if I go over a speed bump too fast it feels like it's bottoming out.
Rear springs look good...maybe 2.5 to 3 inches off the bump stops.
I tow (intermittently) a 16 foot trailer full of equipment (generators, cribbing, hand tools, medical gear, etc.) and I don't want to raise the truck any more than I have to - it's damn tall already, and I need to add a good 5" of light bar - and I have a short wife. I could probably get away with about an inch of overall height, but no more.
SO...that being said...I'm looking for advice. I have towed the trailer once and it looks like it rides level, but it does feel just a touch soft. I know the front is weak, but from what I've read V codes will lift the front (leaving me nose-high) and the add-a-leafs on the rear will give me rake - but probably more than an inch.
If I DON'T want to raise the vehicle much, stop the bottoming out on the front, what are my options?
you have a few options, V, W, X codes but the latter would raise you more then you want. the other option is lift shackles. i put 2.5" on mine w/stock front springs and i've been very happy with them for the last 6 or so months.
you have a few options, V, W, X codes but the latter would raise you more then you want.
So V codes would give you the minimum front lift where X gives the max? What is the difference between the two (not compared to 'worn' springs since I'm sure each truck has springs worn more or less than another, but what is the difference between a 'fresh' set of V's compared to a 'fresh' set of W or X's?
Originally Posted by AlaskanEx
the other option is lift shackles. i put 2.5" on mine w/stock front springs and i've been very happy with them for the last 6 or so months.
Wouldn't that just lift the truck without adding any capacity? If I'm going to change springs, I'd like to add a bit of stiffness as well, not just height.
I have the same rig as you. Story the same. I was facing more a wandering issue than "soft" issue. This is what I have on mine. V codes up front, Roadmaster active suspension in the rear. She sits 1/4" higher in the rear now. I gained a total of just under 2". I also added a helwig rear stabilizer and rancho rs9000 shocks to round it out.
The ride and performance is exceptional now. The suspension really "works" now. Wander is completely eliminated. Towing capabilities are great.
Ours still fits in our garage but many whom have done the v/b codes do not. I went with RAS for simplicity and adjustability (tow a 10K TT).
Hope this helps, ask away if you have moer questions.
Jon
yes the lift shackles would just lift it away from the bump stops and not help your wishy washy feeling.
yes the Vs will give you the least amount of lift but most seem to go with them to stiffen things up and keep you off the bump stops. normal rate of lift i think is 1.5-1.75" on a V10 anyone please correct me if i'm wrong.
the Ws are factory on the f-450 and f-550s so they will be stiffer.
the X codes which are the snow plow prep springs rated at 6000lbs. i had these on my old 2004 and i enjoyed them but they gave me almost 3" of lift. not too harsh of a ride though i did not think.
the Vs will give you the least amount of lift but most seem to go with them to stiffen things up and keep you off the bump stops. normal rate of lift i think is 1.5-1.75" on a V10 anyone please correct me if i'm wrong.
sounds like V's for the front. Do you use the RAS for the rear like Jon or did you use something else?
in both cases i ended up putting 4" f-350 blocks in the rear in place of the stock 2" blocks. now from the sounds of it this would not be a option in your case as it will lift you higher then you want to go.
She sits 1/4" higher in the rear now. I gained a total of just under 2".
Any chance you could measure from the ground to the highest part of the wheel well front and rear sometime if you think about it?
Also if you don't mind me asking, where did you get your parts and what was the cost? How did you install them (yourself or a shop)?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm pulling the SAR trailer over the mountain to the Monterey area in Sep., so I don't have TOO much time before I need to pull the trigger.
A note in "wander"...I don't really notice anything bad on mine. Today I drove on a section of I5 that had those "grooves" cut into the concrete that run along the roadway with traffic instead of across like rumble strips. She started to get a mind of her own for a bit, but I have seen that in every car I have driven on that stretch of road. Do you have stock size tires-wheels?
in both cases i ended up putting 4" f-350 blocks in the rear in place of the stock 2" blocks. now from the sounds of it this would not be a option in your case as it will lift you higher then you want to go.
Yea, Jon's option seems to add what sounds like about 1/4" less overall...not much till you try to squeeze in a garage or parking structure, then it feels like feet instead of inches!
yeah, i do have to check my height at parking garages, most i fit in but one i found out the hard way i do not fit in. had to back down a very busy ramp going into a busy downtown garage so i park at one a few blocks away if i have to go downtown lol
luckly most garages are 6'10"-7' here, i'm thinking because there are more trucks then cars around.
V codes on a V-10 will most likely add 1.75"-2". You could go with a modified B code spring in the back. Once modified it is 1.5" of total lift. It works well for towing. I tow a travel trailer with 1300lb tongue with mine and it handles well. Springs from either Ford ($s) or check around craigslist, lift shops (take offs), junk yards, etc. You could even run a wanted add on craigslist. A lot of guys may have them in the garage - see the ad and want to get rid of them. You can usually find used that were taken off a vehicle with low miles.
Any chance you could measure from the ground to the highest part of the wheel well front and rear sometime if you think about it?
Also if you don't mind me asking, where did you get your parts and what was the cost? How did you install them (yourself or a shop)?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm pulling the SAR trailer over the mountain to the Monterey area in Sep., so I don't have TOO much time before I need to pull the trigger.
A note in "wander"...I don't really notice anything bad on mine. Today I drove on a section of I5 that had those "grooves" cut into the concrete that run along the roadway with traffic instead of across like rumble strips. She started to get a mind of her own for a bit, but I have seen that in every car I have driven on that stretch of road. Do you have stock size tires-wheels?
V codes cost $75 each locally from salvage yard. Started to do myself but near 100 degree weather, no big air compressor anymore and simply time.......a local shop put them on for $140. (They spent nearly 8 hours on it because bolts so froze up)
RAS was around $320
Rancho 9000s waited for sale and got all four plus the MyRide setup for $300.
Hellwig from Summitt for $229
So around $1200 for basically a whole new suspesion.
Ill measure later today, gotta put on a Tru Cool Max cooler this afternoon. I think the front and rear are right at 40". I do have 275/70-18s on it though as well. I'll get the right numbers later.
Jon
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