Stalling Electrical issue or a IAC issue?
Posting Guru
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The plate should touch the screw at idle. There proper method to set it, but the quick way is to have the truck idle at about 550 with the iac unhooked. If its idling with the screw not touching and the iac unhooked at 800, you probably also have an intake gasket leak in addition to a broken TPS. Both are very common.. it will be the upper plenum gasket, 220k and my lower has never leaked.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
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Great update
Well I have improved my situation. I replaced the TPS and I even checked it before I pulled it. The whole thing seemed out of range. I bought a new one and adjusted it iaw the haynes manual and I set my throttle plate to just barely touch the screw.(this was really messed up) I cleared the memory codes and I went and started it. The truck ran beautiful. Initially the idle goes just over 1k and then settles at about 900.
The motor runs very smooth with an occasional skip. I am thinking to go to 9mm wires as I believe it is something bleeding over to ground. The truck doesnt skip while driving or under load which is a good thing.
I put it back on the code reader and I get
EVP 334 fault
I looked for vacume leaks but found none. I went ahead and ohmed out the EVP sensor and it seems to be out of range. I will go ahead and replace this to hopefully get it to clear. I will let all know the progress as I try to get my bronco to have no adverse trouble codes.
Thanks for the help.
The motor runs very smooth with an occasional skip. I am thinking to go to 9mm wires as I believe it is something bleeding over to ground. The truck doesnt skip while driving or under load which is a good thing.
I put it back on the code reader and I get
EVP 334 fault
I looked for vacume leaks but found none. I went ahead and ohmed out the EVP sensor and it seems to be out of range. I will go ahead and replace this to hopefully get it to clear. I will let all know the progress as I try to get my bronco to have no adverse trouble codes.
Thanks for the help.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
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From: Gateway to the West
With the engine off, disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR valve. Apply vacuum to the valve manually (add a piece of vacuum line and suck on it). You should be able to hear/feel resistance as the vacuum overcomes the spring holding the valve shut. Release the vacuum quickly and you should hear the pintle snap back down into the seat in the valve. If neither of these things happen the valve is either stuck or so dirty it won't move. You can clean them if they are stuck. If the vacuum diaphragm has ruptured and vacuum won't open the valve it's replacement time.
The EVP responds to EGR valve movement. If the valve is ok the sensor is the culprit.
The EVP responds to EGR valve movement. If the valve is ok the sensor is the culprit.
Posting Guru
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Sounds good to me, 1000 at start with a tap of the gas lowering it to about 850 or 900 is right. 900 would be a bit on the high side for me, but without proper adjustment of that stop screw (with 351w you use the computer to check if it's high/low) you'll never get it exactly right.. it's not a huge deal though.
that occasional skip? I've been hunting down the causes for mine for a loong time. I found out my new Ford Racing 9mm wires are absolute junk, so I have been fighting a real miss.
For the EVR, I replaced my sensor and mine is still throwing the code.. I'm almost sure my solenoid is the cause at this point.
You definitely wanna get it fixed, there is a noticable difference in how the motor runs when EGR is working properly. It can cause anything from vacuum leaks, to exhaust getting in when it's not suppose to, dirtying up your intake and throttle body, or your timing advancing itself too much.
that occasional skip? I've been hunting down the causes for mine for a loong time. I found out my new Ford Racing 9mm wires are absolute junk, so I have been fighting a real miss.
For the EVR, I replaced my sensor and mine is still throwing the code.. I'm almost sure my solenoid is the cause at this point.
You definitely wanna get it fixed, there is a noticable difference in how the motor runs when EGR is working properly. It can cause anything from vacuum leaks, to exhaust getting in when it's not suppose to, dirtying up your intake and throttle body, or your timing advancing itself too much.
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Freshman User
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Great thanks to all with this. I will get out the vacume guage this week to solve this problem. I will let everyone know what the culprit is. Since the weekend is over I might be a few days. I hope my thread will help others that have experienced this problem. I appreciate the help everyone has given.
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Freshman User
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good and bad news
Well with 200k on the odometer I should expect this. I check the EGR and it leaked. I decided to go the used route and picked one up from a boneyard while I was visiting San Diego. The EGR tested good there and wasnt leaking. I installed it and the motor runs great but now the CEL came on. The EGR was replaced with one from a 95 5.0. Everything looked the same. I cleared the codes and now I am pulling only 2 codes versus the bunch I was before. The first was the KOEO diagnostics. They are
332 Insufficient EGR flow
565 Canister purge CKT failure
The KOER diagnostics had
332
311 thermactor sys inoperative
It did not however have the 565 fault.
I am not sure if the 565 can affect or cause the 332 to go off. The truck run great now. No skips and the idle settles at 750-800 when it is warm now. Thanks for the help and I hope to pass the final fix down to the rest of the forum. Any suggestions? Thanks
332 Insufficient EGR flow
565 Canister purge CKT failure
The KOER diagnostics had
332
311 thermactor sys inoperative
It did not however have the 565 fault.
I am not sure if the 565 can affect or cause the 332 to go off. The truck run great now. No skips and the idle settles at 750-800 when it is warm now. Thanks for the help and I hope to pass the final fix down to the rest of the forum. Any suggestions? Thanks
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