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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 03:00 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by andym
What do you want to know?



That looks like a full floater to me too.
Specifically what I meant to say is a semi-close up picture of each variation
 
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 03:04 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by bbshriver
Specifically what I meant to say is a semi-close up picture of each variation
In addition to the pics below, the difference between the two is this. In a semi-floating rear axle, there is one bearing at the outboard end of the axle shaft, just inboard of the flange that holds the wheel studs. The axle has two functions: carry the rear weight of the vehicle, and carry the torque from the differential. This results in a weaker overall axle. A full-floating axle doesn't carry any of the weight of the vehicle. Its only job is to transfer the torque to the wheels. A full-floating axle has a spindle with an inner and outer wheel bearing. These wheel bearings carry the weight of the vehicle. The axle shaft goes through the spindle and bolts to the hub. The part you see sticking out is the axle shaft flange and the hub. This is why they stick out so far - because of the need for an inner and outer wheel bearing to carry the load.

Also, fun trivia - all part-time four wheel drive front axles on F-series and Broncos are full-floating.

Semi-float:



Full-float:

 
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 03:10 PM
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Thanks, that's what I thought
 
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 03:11 PM
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Nice pics andy...Sure helped.....
 
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 03:18 PM
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Here's a close-up of the sterling 10.25:



You can see the end of the axle shaft in the pic. If you remove those 8 bolts, the whole axle shaft will slide right out. Ford says you're supposed to re-install the axle using new bolts only. Once you remove the axle shaft, inside the hub you will have access to the spindle nut. You need a special tool specific to the axle you're working on. This nut holds the outer wheel bearing in place. Remove the nut, and the whole hub will come off. Then you can get to the inner wheel bearing. Once you have the hub off, you will see the spindle that's bolted to the backing plate. The inside of the bearings sit on this spindle.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 11:56 AM
  #21  
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I've got a lead on a 1990 F250 Diesel 5 speed right now..

Says it's leaking around the fuel pump, he has a new fuel pump, but has not installed it. Runs and drives though, supposedly no other problems other than a dent in the bed.

How hard is the fuel pump to replace, and what else should I look for?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 12:41 PM
  #22  
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I would look at the oil pan for any leaks, and obviously rust on the frame. That sounds like my dream truck, I always wanted a diesel 5 speed, but most are autos. Glad to see someone who still likes stick shifts.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 01:33 PM
  #23  
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Right now I have 4 vehicles and 3 of them are manuals... Only my Cadillac is auto, and had it been offered with a manual that's how I would have bought it..

But I wouldn't even consider a truck with an auto. Which means if I bought a new truck it would have to be dodge... But these new fangled multiple turbo things that pass for diesel engines these days are more than I want anyway. Diesels are supposed to be simple, reliable and last forever..

My dream truck would be a 97... or maybe a 2003.. but I still like the older body styles better..

Or maybe a 90 with a "powerstroke" in it... or better yet a 12V cummins.

Speaking of which, IIRC the naturally aspirated 7.3 isn't exactly a torque monster by modern standards... While I don't need a modern 700-800lb ft, are there any simple/inexpensive modifications that can get some more oompf from a NA 7.3?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 03:59 PM
  #24  
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I would like to find out if the old zf 6 speed or zf 5 speed would bolt up to th new 6.7 ford diesel. That would be cool.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 06:27 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Will Chiello
I would like to find out if the old zf 6 speed or zf 5 speed would bolt up to th new 6.7 ford diesel. That would be cool.

I'm fairly certain this doesn't work. One of my friends did some of the emmisions testing on this engine before it was introduced, and I believe he said there's some technical reason a manual wasn't offered. Could be remembering wrong though, that was a couple of years ago.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 12:59 AM
  #26  
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Off topic, but Andym, how lucky you are to be in an area not infected with salt trucks.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 06:37 AM
  #27  
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Well, it looks like I will be getting a truck tonight if everything works out. Got him to $1800, it drives like a new truck! However, the A/C doesn't work (he claims it needs recharged but who knows?), needs a new windsheild (though he says passed inspection the way it is), and minor IP leak, but includes the new pump just needs to be installed.

I was pleasantly surprised with the power it had. Was expecting it to be very sluggish, but it seemed to have about as much get-up as my dad's 2003 7.3. Guessing that has something to do with the 5 speed instead of auto.

Also, this has the "granny gear" 5 speed.. were there different 5 speeds offered or did all have the low gear?
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 07:19 AM
  #28  
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The zf has granny gear. The mazda doesn't.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 08:45 AM
  #29  
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Dumb question... Vin decoder says it is a "4 speed manual overdrive" Is that the same thing as a 5 speed?
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 08:47 AM
  #30  
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Well, if its a smaller truck than a HD F-250, then yes.....

So that's the way I would look at it...
 
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