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damp, as a glass guy I feel confident enough to do the ball joints. Most of it comes down to the great picture instructions here on fte.
While getting to the ball joints the whole knuckle is removed so the seals on the stub shaft are replaced. If you look behind the knuckle now you will see the part of the dust shield hanging back there on the axle. That is one of the seals replaced while in there. If you go onto parts guy Ed's site he has the ball joint seal package you can purchase from him or get just the seals minus ball jnts.
Ok, I went ahead and found some XRF ball joints on ebay at a very decent price and ordered. Cheaper than even the moog, and by alot of reports that I have read are going to be better. Apparently the moog have dropped in quality over the last few years. Spicer where way more, so the XRF won.
The seals will be ordered shortly, and I hope to get to the work near the end of Aug.
Ok, I went ahead and found some XRF ball joints on ebay at a very decent price and ordered. Cheaper than even the moog, and by alot of reports that I have read are going to be better. Apparently the moog have dropped in quality over the last few years. Spicer where way more, so the XRF won.
The seals will be ordered shortly, and I hope to get to the work near the end of Aug.
Keep us posted on your experiences with them. It will be interesting to see if there's a 3rd legitimate player in the X ball-joint game.
Yep I personally just did mine two weeks ago with the Moog with zerk fittings, 4X4, everything went well, can't say I had any problems at all, it's true the second side is much faster, I would HIGHLY recommend having the ball joint press, I borrowed it from a friend prior to starting the project, it made the new ones going in a piece of cake and even started the one joint out with it, hope i don't get shot but I pretty much followed this to get one side done, Ford Super Duty Ball Joint Replacement Procedure | Superdutypsd.com, considering I had no experience with that kind of project at all I was pleased.
Good Luck wallz, oh and have plenty of PB Blaster on hand, probably spray everything down the night before, tie rod, ball joints, and the four on the back of the hub.
Good Luck wallz, oh and have plenty of PB Blaster on hand, probably spray everything down the night before, tie rod, ball joints, and the four on the back of the hub.
Thanks.
I take my front end apart once a yr and regrease everything so I know the knuckle will come off easy enough. Now the ball jnts or the tie rods that might be different. The press I will go next door and have a shop press them in, no press to borrow or rent for free up here. I'll start early enough and get an alignment in that same day if everything goes well. I don't for see any issues, but you never know right.
Dumb question. What are the tell tale signs that would indicate this repair is needed? I have a 2005 Excursion Diesel 4x4. Just got back from an 8000 mile trip across country and the truck now had 119,000 miles.
A couple of projects on this truck are coming up and i an wondering how to prioritize this one. Others are turbo rebuild and possible oil cooler replacement.....
Dumb question. What are the tell tale signs that would indicate this repair is needed? I have a 2005 Excursion Diesel 4x4. Just got back from an 8000 mile trip across country and the truck now had 119,000 miles.
A couple of projects on this truck are coming up and i an wondering how to prioritize this one. Others are turbo rebuild and possible oil cooler replacement.....
Hi flitch,
If the truck "runs true", doesn't really pull left or right, doesn't wear tires, no front end noise when you hit a bump, etc. then there's nothing to worry about.
When you get the feeling that the front end need alignment, that's the time to check the ball joints. Your bender should check them when he does an alignment. You can also test it yourself by raising the front end and trying to lift the tire with a pry bar. If the joints are excessively worn, you'll feel looseness.
Thank you for the quick response. I notice no pull and my tires are wearing fine. I will have to pay attention to the sound coming from front end on a bump.....
Ok, ball joints went in today. Decided to do the u joints in the knuckles right away while everything was apart. Now it is all new.
Good thing that I did the work, cuz I had a bit of water in the drivers side. Also see that I need to replace the needle bearing, possibly new hub units. This will have to wait tho.
Alignment coming tomorrow, and then leaving for a week to go to work. 16 hr drive one way, so that should be a good test. They do feel snug while putting things back together, but drive nice. If that makes sense.
Had a mechanic press them in the knuckles, he said they are knurled, so went in snug. No turning when I tightened them down. Not too bad a job overall, just make sure before hand you have the right tools to get it all done, as you cant go halfway. Live and learn.
I just had my new 37" Goodyear Wrangler M/T military tires balanced today and found out that my MOOG GREASABLE ball joint on the l/f lower is totally destroyed. It has been less than 15000 miles and it's to the point that I don't want to drive the truck now. The ball joints were replaced February of 2010 and the warranty is now up on them. I will NEVER buy MOOG products again. I thought I would put this out there for the guys who are getting ready to do them.