<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="97%"><TBODY><TR><TD class=ftalternatingbaron vAlign=top width="99%" align=right><TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top colSpan=2>Year: 2004
Make: ford
Model: excursion
Engine Size: 6.0L
Refrigerant Type: 134
Ambient Temp: 75
Pressure Low: 52
Pressure High: 150


recovered the charge and pulled a deep vacuum. vacuum held and didn't change after 10 mins. the pump we used isn't mine so i don't know its condition but it did draw down vacuum to 28 on the low side guage. added 4lbs 10oz(what the sticker on the truck said to add) of r134 using a scale.

when its 75-80f outside and the truck is moving the vent temps are at 52-54f. when we had 90f and higher the vent temps are 66f while moving and creep up to 74f while the truck is moving. if the truck idles(750rpm) when its 90f or higher the vent temps start to rise to 80f. when the truck is idling at 1500rpms and its 90f outside the vent temp is at 74f. when i spray the condenser with water the vent temp drops to low 60's and the low side pressure readings drop to 32-35. the a/c clutch is engaged and stays engaged the whole time. this truck also has a rear a/c.

anyone have a service manual to tell me the location of the rear txv and the front orifice tube?? does the dash board have to come out in order to get to these parts?

thanks,
john
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I know these things work better when moving vs. idling. The sticker under the hood calls for 4lbs, 4 oz. You may have too much freeon in the system. It's always better to have too little or just enough, vs too much.

 

Two things are coming to mind as I read your post. First - Check your clutch fan and verify the cleanliness of your condensor. Sounds like you aren't rejecting the heat if you have to spray water on the condensor. Also at idle the 52psi on the low side sounds pretty high. When you spray water on the condensor the 32-35psi is better and will make cold air.

As a side note if you did not use a Micron gauge there is no way to tell how 'deep' your vacuum was. There potentially could be non-condensables in the system. I have done the method you have listed above plenty of times with good success, but when problems occur it is good to know all the details.

Cheers!

 

i bought a new yellow jacket full atmosphere micron gauge after i did this job. i used my friends pump(6cfm robinair) to vacuum down the excursion. i checked his pump(i isolated the pump and hooked the micron gauge to pump only) with the micron gauge and it read 330 microns. next time we will be using my pump(10cfm robinair). i just checked my pump and it drew down to 20 microns. i'm not sure if 330microns is enough moisture to screw things up?? i want to reclaim whats in there and check the orifice tube and txv while the system is down.

anyone know where the OT and TXV are located? and are they easily accessible?

 

yes i agree...but the sticker i read was calling for 4lbs 10oz. i will double check tues as this is my friends truck.

 

Sorry I can't help with the exact location of the OT and TXV. Other Fords I have dealt with have had the OT crimped into the Liquid line, maybe try there? The 6cfm pump is more than enough to evacuate the system. Pull it down too fast and any moisture that may be in the system will freeze. When you evacuate the system the trick is to mount the micron gauge to the system, not the pump as you want to read the level of the system. If you can disconnect the pump from the system and the micron level stays below 500 for a length of time you will be ok on that front. That procedure is a bit **** but you are sure it is done correct at that point.

Could there be a ton of hours on the compressor? Inefficient?

Good Luck, sounds like you have a good one!

 

My AC starts to warm up when stuck in traffic and it's 90+ degrees out. I found that the recirculation door was stuck in the outside air position. I also blocked the heater hose on one side. Made a huge difference.

 

I had a similar issue, turned out that a gray vacuum line had poppped off... Not sure if psd has same. On v10 it runs from right side near valve cover to behind ac/ fan on outer fire wall.

 

thanks for the responses. anyone have the factory service manual that shows step by step on how to find/replace the OT and TXV?

 

Front OT in is the condensor to evaporator tube. You can get at the rear expansion valve if you remove the jack storage compartment. It's right behind it.

 

thank you!!

 

thanks guys...i will check that today.

 

Did replacing the TXV make any difference? My rear air is blowing warm and I wonder if thats the problem.

 

Can't wait to read some responses, cause I have the same issue with my rear air.

 

the rear and the front had the same vent temps. i had clamped off the heater hose and seemed to make a diff...for the better, still wasn't cold enough. took it to the dealer and was told the compressor is weak. it's going to cost $630 for compressor and dryer. i should knw if they were right sometime this week.