OK, since the PO had all the necessary parts for the drop axle and disc brake conversion I have decided to save my money for other things and stick with that for now.

Don't get me started on hoiw he didn't even wipe the tool oil off the axle before applying POR and how it peeled off in sheets. I pulled it all apart, preped it properly, primed and painted it and now it's ready to go back together.

I have read a bunch of threads on the topic but still have a couple questions.

1. The caster wedges come in all sizes. I have seen Sid recomends 6 degrees and MF says 4. What have you guys with experience found to be the best?

2. Does everyone bend their steering arm to level the ptman arm or if set up properly is the bump steer tolerable? I have all new parts and have the Toyota P/S conversion going in at the same time.



This is a ground up build and will not see the road for a while so I won't be able to report back right away but would like to get it as close as possible the first time around.


Thanks guys. You and this site have been a great help.

Rich

 

I have no answers for you cause I have not gotten as far as the axle...but I will be watching this thread closely.

My thoughts on the shims would be if it is a cast axle, chances are it came from Sid and I would follow his guidelines. If it is something else, then I have no idea. Don't help much, I know...

 

pictures speak louder then words...so when you can post them. For my drop axel I kept the stock steering, and did not need to bend anything, you do need tie rod drops for the clearance of the tierod, other then that its a simple process, also, I have 4 degree shims, thick part goes to the cab...see pic below for my ride height...

 

I also used 4degree shims and didn't bend my pitman arm however, I have the one made by MF that fits the ford/toyota for the toyota P/S box. I drive mine quite often with no issues; consistently drive 70 on the freeway.

 

Well I like the answers so far. It makes me nervous thinking about applying enough heat to a steering component to bend it.

This is not a Sid unit but another vendor I cannot identify. I looked over the axle but couldn't find any markings.

I did purchase a Toyo conversion kit with pitman arm from CPP after reviewing posts here and seeing positive feedback on the quality. It is a nice bracket and arm and included the hardware. I'm very satisfied with it and it bolted up to the F1 pretty easy without drilling too many holes.


I will try and get some pics this week or weekend. I had to pile all the stuff back in the garage and it's tough to get a good pic right now.


Thanks,

Rich

 

I just remebered one more question. (and part of the reason some have bent their steering arm)


It appears my steering arm will hit my driver's side shock when wheels are turned full left.
Is there a different style shock you guys are running or did you not run into that issue?

Thanks again guys

 

I'm watching this thread closely too. Lookin to install a drop axle aswell. Is there any pros and cons to the different drop axles offered? I'm also looking at replacing springs too, so It may be a while until I get the axle.

low54- I LIKE the way your truck sits!

 

I've mentioned this before I had a bad experience with the new drop axles, welds breaking, axle not straight when a shop tried to correct it bent in the center. However, I think some of them may be working well. I went with the original axle stretched 3", Which is working great for me.

 

Wow Jaye I hope I have better luck than you. The unit looks good and the welds look like they have penetration. I guess nobody can tell for sure till it hits the alignment rack though.


How did you deal with the shock issue? Did your steering arm contact the Driver's shock after you installed the axle or is that an F1 issue?

Rich

 

I went with speedway's axel and tie rod drops for 395.00 plus shipping, i'm very pleased...



It is forged at the ends and tubing in the center. Before the install I inspected the welds at the forged ends and spring perches...very high quality. Sid at droppedaxel.com can drop your straight axel for about 300.00 plus the core. MF has a new version like the one I bought...for about 450.00, I do suggest if you purschase springs you go with the down n forward from MF...they will center the wheel in the fender, giving better look and travel.,

 

The shock mounts for the 56 & 55 are different. I have the ones for the 55 not sure if 53 or 54 were the same. The top is a bracket riveted to the frame about 3" long with a hole for the shock stud. The bottom bolts to the bottom/front of the axle attache to the U-bolts they are quite a ways away from the tire when turning I haven't had any issues, I didn't have any clearance issues when I had the new style tube axle either. When I get home I'll see if I can get some pictures, they may be 1 or 2 that shows the shock brackets in my gallerey on frame swap.
Ok here is a pic of the top bracket.

 

only one piece of advice, is make sure when you tap out the kingpins from old axel, do it carefully, unless your putting in new pins, you don't want to mushroom the tops of the pins when your pounding, I learned the hard way...my pins were in great shape until i hammered the crap out of them getting them out...my mistake...but that's the glory of workin on stuff, you learn as you go...

 

Thanks for the pic Jaye. I think I'll get it all together and then see exactly what I'm dealing with on the shock situation.

Based on what you guys are running I have 4 degree shims coming with long head spring bolts and new U bolts as well.


The king pins won't be an issue Low as they were already replaced and I left them alone. I just taped the spindles off when I repainted the axle. Thanks for the heads up though. I'm sure others will benifit from your experience.


I'll let you all know how the assembly goes this weekend. Thanks again for all your help.

Rich