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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Ammeter Frying

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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 10:46 PM
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Ammeter Frying

Ok, so I've got a frying ammeter in the dash. If the meter is connected while running, smoke comes out of the dash. I think too many amps are going to it, due to an MSD box or miswiring. Does anyone know how many amps its supposed to be? Thanks.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 10:53 PM
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I believe it's something like 0.5A.

Here, read this:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ck-answer.html
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 11:13 PM
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From what I got out of the link was converting the dummy light to a gauge. Thats not the problem, because the truck has all of the original wiring in the dash for the ammeter. What my thinking was, is that the MSD box is the issue. I was just wondering if I was right or wrong. Thanks for the idea though.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 11:18 PM
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The topic of that thread, yes, was converting the wiring. But there is good information in there about the amount of current that flows through the various wires, that's what I was trying to point you to.

In general, converting the ignition should have -zero- effect on the ammeter like that and certainly won't smoke it (if done correctly).
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 06:53 AM
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Sounds like someone tapped into something that bypassed the protective shunt in the ammeter circuit. The ammeter doesn't run at a specified amperage. Rather, it measures the amperage drop between the alternator and battery, so the amperage is variable, but the circuit is protected by the shunt. If someone redneck-engineers the wiring you can easily overload the circuit. Problem is once the ammeter has produced smoke, it's fried and will need to be replaced. Check for wiring changes around the I terminal on the regulator.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 09:44 AM
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I don't think the MSD box would cause the problem. My 1981 has run an MSD 6A box for
many years and has the factory guages and I have never had any problem with the
ammeter.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 10:47 AM
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Here is a link with photos of the shunt wiring, ALT harness and the two small wires that feed the AMP meter. The shunt wire is the top darker colored wire in the first two photos. The two smaller wires at the large black splices feed the AMP meter.
.
.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post9546391
.
BUT... if you send to much current to the AMP meter it will blow like a fuse, thus you will need a new AMP meter if you did fry it.
Most likey the SHUNT wire has been cut, which would then force all the current flow through the meter instead of a very small percentage that should flow through it.
Jim
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 01:42 PM
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I agree with JIM. I'd check the altenator wiring between the Battery terminal on the altenator and the starter solenoids direct Battery post.

Especially check where the ammeter wires have been spliced in by the factory. One of the splices could be corroded.

Check for continuity with a multimeter with the truck off and the wires disconnected on each end.

Here is a Factory Charge/Start/Run wiring diagram. It shows DS-II system, but just ignore that bit.
 
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