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I'm working on someones Geo Storm grocery getter. I wonder if some of you guys have neighbors with this stuff? Problem: 4 cyl. running on rear two. Cyl. has spark at plug (plug out wire hooked up) while cranking. Going to town for NOID light as I don't need to have one for Diesels. Inj. ohm out 16.4 EXCEPT #2 which is not firing either, it ohms .08. Any one have suggestions? I think there is more than one problem.
I'm not sure if I have spark at all cyl. all the time. It will start and barely run. Assuming the #1 cyl. is pass side front, it does not fire when running. I determine this by simply pulling plug wire and if you pull it or #2 it does not change. if you pull three or four it will shut it off. Using a NOID light the injector wiring harness flashes on both the two dead cyl. Again, the 2nd injector back ohms at .08 while the other three ohm 16,4. The Haynes book the owner has
shows 12.7 ohm. I think. They are consistent. The spark plugs fire when the other two are running, have not had both out to see if they both fire while the others are running I can check that.
Last edited by 540milotalon; Jun 9, 2011 at 06:50 AM.
Reason: clarity
You don`t say what year it is but with any gas EFI motor it is always a good idea to see if there any trouble codes.
Could be bad plug wires or dist cap or, if coil pack, it could be bad.
You're right!! It's a '92, SOHC 1.6. I have nothing to check for codes but can get one I guess. Would have to find diag. port as well, if it has one.Cap "looks" good but it might do to tune up as well. Thanks to you guys for checking back with me on this. I have not removed fuel rail yet to change the defective inj. -that I ordered for today or next- till I diagnose some more.
Did a google search and it may be that if you look at the fuse box, under the left side of the instrument panel, there will be a free slot. It seems that there is a diagnostic terminal there, such that if you fit a spare fuse into it and turn on the ignition key, the MIL will flash out any trouble codes. Might be worth trying.
After repairs any trouble codes can be erased by lifting off the neg battery wire for 10min or so.
i know on the old OBD1 systems you can jump between two terminals in the data port, not sure which ones on the geo but ive done it on chevy trucks. like lazy k said, jump the terminals, turn the key on and the chech engine light will start flashing. it will count the code out.
Wow, As old as I am I forgot the old flashing code trick! I've been smelling diesel fumes too long? I will go over these things in a little bit. It's 100* out right now but starting to cool.
Wow, As old as I am I forgot the old flashing code trick! I've been smelling diesel fumes too long? I will go over these things in a little bit. It's 100* out right now but starting to cool.
OK, read the book. You remove a panel in the passenger, side toe kick area to access wiring harness to jump across terminals..
1.'92 Geo Storm, from passenger side, #1 cyl. does not fire(run) but has good spark while trying to run.
2. #2 has weak spark while trying to run and this is cyl. that has really out of whack ohm reading as compared to other three. Switching plug with #1 does not change this condition. Positive this is bad inj. .08 ohm compared to 16.4 ohm on other three.
3. Jumping data port shows a flashing of 12, which indicates that it's working proper and any stored codes would follow.
4. My cranking assistant left key on and I did not check this till batt. was dead. After unhooking batt. and recharging ( I found out later that this clears codes, actually didn't know enough to think ahead.) there are no stored codes.
5. All cyl. flash same with NOID light.
6. Have not checked for timing belt issue but will definitely consider.
Plan to change cap, rotor, wires and plug. If we can get the first cyl. running, perhaps we can then get a code, which I would like to see before I pull fuel rail to change inj. I'm wondering if there is a reason there is lack of fuel on #1, will actually study book on this. when all else fails, read instructions.
Any suggestions ( other than swapping engine to a diesel?
Customer Concern:
Misfiring on 1-2 cylinders. Done every check there is. Can see it is injection pulse going away on #4. New plugs, wires, ignition module. Starts and runs cold, misfires after engine warm.
Tests/Procedures:
1. Test injectors resistance. Should be 15-16 ohms, all within 0.2 ohms, cold engine. Resistance will be higher on hot engine, still must be within 0.2 ohms highest to lowest.
Potential Causes:
Malfunctioning Fuel Injector
Tech Tips:
TSB 92-181-6E has revised injector resistance for 1992 Storm 1.6 VIN 6 only.
Maybe i missed something but.....Youre not getting fire on two plugs...even if the timing jumped it should still fire.That is the cam timing and not fire timing.
my question is this...You are testing fire from the wire? have you tested for fire from the coil? or swapped wires around to make sure there all good?---i have seen vehicles short out due to dirty valve covers and such..you never know.good luck
edit-i said have you tested coil...i meant have you tested from the cap.
OK, we have it apart but had to quit for the evening. The plugs, out of their respective holes "spark" going from pass side across to driver side; the 1st sparks while it was cranking/running but was not "running" as in when you pulled the plug wire it was unchanged. The next cyl (#2)also sparked but faint, exchanging plugs did not change this. It was running on 3-4. Pulling either of these two shut it off! Using an ohm meter I was able to find the resistance value was 16.4 on all but #2, which was .08, also with NOID light both cyl. flashed the same. I can see the #2 cyl. not running with the inj being this far out of speck. The question that remained for me was, was gas making it to the inj. at #1 or was something shorting off the fuel to it? We have put in plugs, wires , cap and rotor button. and installed a new inj. on #2. We need to reassemble and start. We are hoping for tomorrow to come back on and say, the car is running on four!!